Wanted: Yale Lock Driving Cable Latch

[system 4-50]

Does anybody know where I can get a door locking set that has the following features:

 

Yale-type cylinder lock acting via a cable drive on a latch.

 

I want to have cylinder locking on my narrowboat doors but with the cylinder located beside the doorway, not in the doors themselves.

[sharpness]

Does anybody know where I can get a door locking set that has the following features:

 

Yale-type cylinder lock acting via a cable drive on a latch.

 

I want to have cylinder locking on my narrowboat doors but with the cylinder located beside the doorway, not in the doors themselves.

 

I'm puzzled about that, I cant see how the cable would pass from the cylinder, fixed on the bulkhead, to the latch, on the opening door. Through the frame and into the edge of the door at the hinge side but the cable would have to be able to move in & out of one or the other.

Could be done with an electric lock perhaps if you really want to go that far, but not with a mechanical cable surely. I may be wrong though.

 

Steve

[Eeyore]

Does anybody know where I can get a door locking set that has the following features:

 

Yale-type cylinder lock acting via a cable drive on a latch.

 

I want to have cylinder locking on my narrowboat doors but with the cylinder located beside the doorway, not in the doors themselves.

Hi 4-50

I assume that internet searches have failed to find exactly what you are looking for?

Have a look at controlled access hardware (as used on the front doors of jewelers and building societies). These systems have a movable striker plate which may be available/more easily adapted to remote mechanical operation. The only problem is that I have only seen this arangement used on inward opening doors.

Alternatively get creative with a few levers and a bicycle brake cable?

Steve

[Rojo]

[b]I want to have cylinder locking on my narrowboat doors but with the cylinder located beside the doorway, not in the doors themselves.[/b]

 

For what reason?

[Smelly]

If you just used the barrel you could weld a lever to the bar that stick out of the back and fix the cable to that..? Maybe!

[pearley]

Aftermarket deadlocks and slamlocks for commercial vehicles are often arranged like this although the steel doors are only 1mm or less in thickness. Talk to Locks4Vans.

 

www.locks4vans.com

[system 4-50]

[b]I want to have cylinder locking on my narrowboat doors but with the cylinder located beside the doorway, not in the doors themselves.[/b]

 

For what reason?

 

I see the presence of a lock in a door as a weak point. It provides information as to the location of the metal that does the locking action and to the type of lock employed. This gives a serious and knowledgeable thief a good start on breaking in. I want the door to be completely free of any indication as to how it is secured.

 

By chance I have an instrument panel with room for a yale-type lock (just) immediately to the left of the door, located in a recessed area protected by a cabin-thickness metal flap which can be padlocked, hiding the lock completely. A would-be thief thus has two locks to overcome and will not know at the outset how long it is going to take.

 

I'd like the door to be secured by serious metal bars across the full width of the doors at two heights. I'm still ruminating on how this might work. My problem then is to convert the cyclic action of the lock into some sort of movement for the bars. This has to be absolutely reliable or I could end up being locked out of my own boat.

 

I've looked at the van site and they are in the right area but heavily geared to producing products to fit specific vehicles, most too sophisticated I suspect for my purposes. But I may enquire further.

[OldGoldy]

snip..................... I want the door to be completely free of any indication as to how it is secured.

 

I'd like the door to be secured by serious metal bars across the full width of the doors at two heights. I'm still ruminating on how this might work. My problem then is to convert the cyclic action of the lock into some sort of movement for the bars.

 

This has to be absolutely reliable or I could end up being locked out of my own boat.

 

For more ideas, I would then start looking at the locking arrangements for up & over garage doors (mine is a Henderson of some 20yrs vintage), where the central handle turns a cam which pushes out two long flat strips/tongues into or behind the jambs. Link this with two bowden cables, also via a cam, linked to the back of the cylinder. These cables will need to be long to allow for the movement of the door hinges ie turn through 90deg.

 

Consider also the multi-point locking systems on upvc doors, I can't remember what they're called and my Screwfix cat. no longer shows them.

 

You may need to build in a plan 'B' elsewhere, in case of mechanism failure.

[Yoda]

I can understand what you are trying to achieve but you cannot use cables. It has to be an extended crank from the snib. You need to change rotary motion into lateral motion on both sides of the doors. So the throw is important for security. You will end up with quite a large mechanism to do the job.

 

You could do the same thing with two 12v solenoid switches pushing a cam.

[Grace and Favour]

I'd like the door to be secured by serious metal bars across the full width of the doors at two heights. I'm still ruminating on how this might work. My problem then is to convert the cyclic action of the lock into some sort of movement for the bars. This has to be absolutely reliable or I could end up being locked out of my own boat.

 

If you consider that any system (that is to be) powered by electrickery has an element of possible failure (and hence be locked when you're in the outside!) - have you considered a robust Heath Robinson approach . .

 

Under your exterior inspection panel fit a tapered peg that can be operated by a windlass.

In the interior - you can have this peg driving your cam operation >> sliding bars across the door - and would have a locking mechanism that should be reliable - and capable of meeting some fairly hefty (unwelcome) abuse

[John Orentas]

Does anybody know where I can get a door locking set that has the following features:

 

Yale-type cylinder lock acting via a cable drive on a latch.

 

I want to have cylinder locking on my narrowboat doors but with the cylinder located beside the doorway, not in the doors themselves.

 

 

Yes I have seen this done on a few boats, you won't be able to buy just what you want but take a trip to a B&Q.. I'm not a fan of the places but they have an enormous range of locks in stock, bound to be something you can easily modify.