Alternator controllers

[steelaway]

Yes, my BT batteries were so well hidden by Liverpool Boats that they were completely inaccessable. I had a steel battery box fabricated & welded onto the bow deck and than had a claim up under warranty with NBC.

 

I moan about the domestic and start battery location (on the counter above the swim), when I have to top them up, but it's actually no worse then most boats. I think a sliding steel drawer would be a great idea, but it would have to be very heavy duty for all that weight and then you'd have the issue of cables moving about.

 

Hi There

 

I also had a long discussion with the boat builder about a sliding tray and also decided it would have to bloody strong and you would have difficulty sliding it.

It's about time some one came up with a simple solution.

 

Alex

[Tony Brooks]

Hi There

 

I also had a long discussion with the boat builder about a sliding tray and also decided it would have to bloody strong and you would have difficulty sliding it.

It's about time some one came up with a simple solution.

 

Alex

 

 

They have - Cruiser stern with a battery box either let into the steel decking or under a removable deck board, but then most people seem to want trads.

[steelaway]

They have - Cruiser stern with a battery box either let into the steel decking or under a removable deck board, but then most people seem to want trads.

 

Thats better- all builders should take note

Trad owners will have to arrange it so they take up the floor somewhere.

 

Alex

[Nickhlx]

Nick

 

Go to the Sterling Products website and download the new 2008 catalogue. There is a really good section called "What is the best battery to use for an auxiliary charging system ?" see: http://www.sterling-power.com/images/downl...at_2008_web.pdf and then go to page 17.

 

The whole catalogue contains a mine of information about probably all the electrical questions you could possibly have. I am a great fan of their products but have no commercial or other connection with them other than as a customer. Their home page is at http://www.sterling-power.com/index.php

 

Chris

 

 

Thanks, Chris - only just seen this ( must be slacking !) Any thoughts on a suitable day for a meet yet ? ( I hope you got that message )

 

Nick

[Nickhlx]

My biggest current concern is persuading the boat builder to build to the spec I will arrive at, which I feel certain is not going to be what he is used to, although in fairness to him, he is likely building in lack of maintenance and after sales service for his company - I will need to be fully familiar with all the items and the routine maintenace involved so he feels happy with that, ( and confident with me) even though at the end of the day I will be funding it all... I have a few more months yet though, before he will be calling for "the spec", in which to learn what I need to.

Thanks again,

 

Nick

Hi Nick

 

You must impress on the builder that you will require easy access to the battery's.

I have seen them fitted on top of the swim and deep under the deck, almost impossible to check.

I had mine fitted on a tray directly under the engine hatch, welded to the front bulkhead above and in front of the engine.

My only worry has been the heat they may be subjected to above the engine, but they have been no problem for 3 years.

Chris W says a maximum of 50 degrees and I dont think they get that hot as I dont use excessive amounts of water.

 

Alex

 

Hi Alex,

Thanks for the tip ! I was wondering whether it would be necessary / a good idea to have some forced ventilation in the engine "room" ( battery room / box) to keep temps down. I think there is likely to be normally vents provided, but I can imagine they would not do very much to ventilate. Also if Wet batteries are going to be employed, then I would think its essential to prevent build-up of explosive ( and corrosive) gases in there. I had plannned to acoustically dampen and seal up the engine room to deck to minimise noise escaping, further requiring some sort of forced ventilation... Points added to the spec list ! Thanks.

 

Nick

[steelaway]

Hi Alex,

Thanks for the tip ! I was wondering whether it would be necessary / a good idea to have some forced ventilation in the engine "room" ( battery room / box) to keep temps down. I think there is likely to be normally vents provided, but I can imagine they would not do very much to ventilate. Also if Wet batteries are going to be employed, then I would think its essential to prevent build-up of explosive ( and corrosive) gases in there. I had plannned to acoustically dampen and seal up the engine room to deck to minimise noise escaping, further requiring some sort of forced ventilation... Points added to the spec list ! Thanks.

 

Nick

 

Hi Nick

 

I reckoned that the engine sucks in all the explosive gases and burns them.

I'm not sure about forced ventilation, still have to have In/Out holes and again a degree of ventilation is by the engines demand for air.

I had my engine room vertical surfaces and under the cruiser deck, sprayed by the spray foamers and added 2" of rubber foam to the deck lids.

You are right though, the noise now is from the 4"x 4" engine vent - but it is acceptable.

I would recommend an hospital silencer.

 

Alex

[pwl]

Hi Nick

 

I reckoned that the engine sucks in all the explosive gases and burns them.

I'm not sure about forced ventilation, still have to have In/Out holes and again a degree of ventilation is by the engines demand for air.

I had my engine room vertical surfaces and under the cruiser deck, sprayed by the spray foamers and added 2" of rubber foam to the deck lids.

You are right though, the noise now is from the 4"x 4" engine vent - but it is acceptable.

I would recommend an hospital silencer.

 

Alex

 

2 questions.

1) What is and where do you get rubber foam?

2) (showing my newbie status here). What is significant about a hospital silence and how do you tell on a second hand boat what type it has?

 

P

[blackrose]

2 questions.

1) What is and where do you get rubber foam?

2) (showing my newbie status here). What is significant about a hospital silence and how do you tell on a second hand boat what type it has?

 

P

 

I'm not sure why they're called hospital silencers but you'll know if you see one - it looks like a big dustbin in the exhaust pipe. It just helps to make the engine quieter than a 'standard' exhaust.

[Stroudwater Boy]

I'm not sure why they're called hospital silencers but you'll know if you see one - it looks like a big dustbin in the exhaust pipe. It just helps to make the engine quieter than a 'standard' exhaust.

 

Ah something I can help with for once. They are called hospital silencers because when you install a standby generator the normal silencer is well, not very effective. To meet the requirements of not waking all the patients in a hospital you end up with a huge expansion box therefore any larger than normal exhaust in a canal boat is now called a hospital silencer.

 

Did do a job for American Express during the 3 day week crisis that when the gennys first sarted up at night caused so many complaints from housing estates all around the area that they promised the local council they would never be started again, but they had decided that the need was so urgent that they couldn't wait for the silencers to be made!

 

On the original subject I have a Stirling PDAR, love it. If you ring their helpline and get an Irish accent it will be Charles Stirling and he is a mine of information that is delivered very directly.

[steelaway]

2 questions.

1) What is and where do you get rubber foam?

2) (showing my newbie status here). What is significant about a hospital silence and how do you tell on a second hand boat what type it has?

 

P

 

Hi There

 

We have an industrial rubber supplier in Sheffield.

They have sheets of 'off cuts' in various sizes. It is black and quite dence with a smooth surface top and bottom, a stanley knife will cut. 2 pieces making 10ft x 3ft cost me about £40

As has been said, these silencers are BIG but make cruising much nicer, costs about £100 although I did a trade in with my engine supplier for the one supplied with the engine (Barrus)

 

Alex

[pwl]

thanks to all. Dont think I have room for a dustbin in the engine bay but the industrial rubber sounds like a good idea when I renew the hexaflloring. On the initial topic, sounds like an almost unanimous vote for the PDAR.

 

P

[steelaway]

thanks to all. Dont think I have room for a dustbin in the engine bay but the industrial rubber sounds like a good idea when I renew the hexaflloring. On the initial topic, sounds like an almost unanimous vote for the PDAR.

 

P

 

hi there

 

You will regret it. The constant noise of the exhaust under your left ear is annoying after 3-4 hours, especially when you want a silent engine.

Its not that big, same length as a normal silencer but 14" diameter, mine sits simply on the port side swim.

Good luck with every thing else.

 

Alex

[Broughton 2]

I edited my post above and added the wiring instructions so don't miss them.

BTW, if you add a simple on/off switch acros the thermal switch, you will have a great way of testing the circuit (with the switch closed, the relay will operate and disconnect the controller. Secondly, the switch is a great way too of taking the controller out of circuit when you want to compare the amps delivered due to the controller and those delivered due to the internal regulator alone.

 

Chris

 

Chris

This Numpty cannot locate the wiring instructions (diagram?) you so generously posted and shall be grateful if you will either PM to me or indicate where to find the posting.

 

My engine has two alternators coupled through a Sterling 'Alternator to battery charger, AB12160' and I suppose I simply repeat your circuit for each alternator(?).

 

To avoid having a Relay can you suggest a suitable 12V DC Switch? It's a personal thing that I prefer simplicity with least number of components in any system wherever possible?

Thanks

Alan

[chris w]

Chris

This Numpty cannot locate the wiring instructions (diagram?) you so generously posted and shall be grateful if you will either PM to me or indicate where to find the posting.

 

My engine has two alternators coupled through a Sterling 'Alternator to battery charger, AB12160' and I suppose I simply repeat your circuit for each alternator(?).

 

To avoid having a Relay can you suggest a suitable 12V DC Switch? It's a personal thing that I prefer simplicity with least number of components in any system wherever possible?

Thanks

Alan

 

Post #43 has the wiring instructions for the relay.

 

I do NOT suggest NOT using a relay. You DO need to use a relay. Please read through my posts again. I added an optional ON/OFF switch to enable testing, and to enable an easy comparison of non-controller current and controller current.

 

Note that the instructions are for a normally-open thermal switch. If you have a normally-closed thermal switch the instructions will be incorrect. I can post the alternative wiring for this switch mode if anyone needs it.

 

Chris

 

Chris

[Broughton 2]

Post #43 has the wiring instructions for the relay.

 

I do NOT suggest NOT using a relay. You DO need to use a relay. Please read through my posts again. I added an optional ON/OFF switch to enable testing, and to enable an easy comparison of non-controller current and controller current.

 

Note that the instructions are for a normally-open thermal switch. If you have a normally-closed thermal switch the instructions will be incorrect. I can post the alternative wiring for this switch mode if anyone needs it.

 

Chris

 

Chris

Thanks Chris for the speedy reply. I didn't make myself clear did I (apologies) it was the wiring diagram that I was looking for, ref your Post No 28 to Mike. Can you point me to it?

 

Regarding the Relay, I thought it was introduced to the circuit as a consequence to discovery the proposed Switch is AC not DC and likely would weld contacts in no time at all. I guess you had it in mind all along to incorporate a relay.

 

Alan

[chris w]

Thanks Chris for the speedy reply. I didn't make myself clear did I (apologies) it was the wiring diagram that I was looking for, ref your Post No 28 to Mike. Can you point me to it?

 

Regarding the Relay, I thought it was introduced to the circuit as a consequence to discovery the proposed Switch is AC not DC and likely would weld contacts in no time at all. I guess you had it in mind all along to incorporate a relay.

 

Alan

 

Alan

 

I didn't draw an actual diagram in the end as the wiring is so simple and adequately described in words.

 

The relay came about due the discovery that the switches are only specc'd at about 500mA (0.5A) DC and we need about 5A to pass through them, en route to the alternator rotor. So, instead, the thermal switch now controls the relay, which only needs about 100mA and the relay contacts deliver the 5A to the rotor. (The relay I specified will actually be OK up to 30A so no isues with the rotor current at all).

 

Chris

 

Chris