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Drive plate bolts BMC 1.5


StephenA

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On 18/06/2023 at 14:23, Tracy D'arth said:

Good man, best to do it properly 'cos it will fail again with only 4 screws. Not good for the flywheel teeth chewing steel.

The set screws need to be high tensile, allen cap heads are.  Grade 8.8 or better 10.9 hex set screws will do.  Do check on the size though, 5/16"  is normal, about as thick as a disposable ball point pen.

 

We plan on replacing all of them. We believe the drive plate to be one of the R & D drive plates ( RD22AM4 or RD22B4 ) and have just 5 x 6.5mm holes for the bolts.

Edited by StephenA
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3 minutes ago, StephenA said:

 

We plan on replacing all of them. We believe the drive plate to be one of the R & D drive plates ( RD22AM4 or RD22B4 ) which sit in the recess in the flywheel and have just 5 x 6.5mm holes for the bolts.

So they are 1/4" screws, unusual. This is a small spring cushion drive plate then, like the centre of a clutch plate? What gearbox is it mated to?

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1 minute ago, Tracy D'arth said:

So they are 1/4" screws, unusual. This is a small spring cushion drive plate then, like the centre of a clutch plate? What gearbox is it mated to?

 

A ZF12M IIRC

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2 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Thank you, all just for the search for knowledge.

 

I'll take photos of it all when we next go up to fix it. Also got to work out why one of the studs keeps falling out of the AG stuffing box

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I would call it the stern gland stuffing box cum greaser.

 

If the brass studs are vibrating loose I would check the shaft to engine alignment. Misalignment of the shaft in the gland is the main reason that they come loose.

Fit the studs with Loctite after you have thoroughly degreased the stud and the threaded hole.

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  • 1 month later...

OK I said I'd post back - picture not great as weather was far from ideal.

 

So the drive plate sits in a recess in the flywheel and was held in by 5 1/4 bolts (4 socket cap and one regular head).

 

We've replaced the ones that were in there with new ones from Fixaball with spring washers and threadlock. The flywheel actually has 8 holes so we put in more  bolts so we now have 8 new socket cap bolts in there.

362897728_1946401955728796_6620871408099386616_n.jpg

Edited by StephenA
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3 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

A bit of gynaecology if you don't take the bell housing off, but you managed.  Standard sort of cushion drive plate not a spring plate like a clutch. It should have all the bolts in.

Thanks for coming back. 

 

Hard to take the bell housing off as it has the engine legs on it - so you do have to do a bit by touch and feel.

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2 minutes ago, StephenA said:

 

Hard to take the bell housing off as it has the engine legs on it - so you do have to do a bit by touch and feel.

I fully understand, but I still jack the engine and take the bell housing off with the 2 rear mounts attached, saves realigning.

Age bending and fed up with cutting the backs of my hands takes precedence! 

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You'll note that Steve tells you how we did it, but doesn't mention that it was was me who did the work while he supervised from the cabin!   It's the flow of blood to the head that gets to me - sitting on the weed hatch and bending down is not the most comfortable job in the world. 

 

The plate that the engine came with, 30+ years ago, was one with springs. 

  • Haha 1
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