Painting Question

[Seren-y-dwr]

Hi all and hive mind - question:

 

how often does a boat need painting? I had a professional paint in 2017 but blacked to the gunnels. Paint is now looking tired and i have topped up/done areas but am unsure how long a professional paint job should last (am not impressed with job done btw). I did try to search google and this site for this but have had no joy.

Edited June 2, 2022 by Seren-y-dwr
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[David Mack]

Your problem is the colour. Red paints age noticeably less well than other colours.

[Tony Brooks]

What happened to the first photo that seemed to show blacking falling off red oxide around the stern? I have been told that ordinary blacking tends to fall off red oxide, so blacking should  go onto bare steel or a primer approved by the blacking manufacturer.

[Seren-y-dwr]

so blacked to gunnels by ABC and painted red above that by them in 2017. Some areas seem undercoated, others dont, overall dont think its very good. So I have been topping up myself. 

 

However i would like to know if a reputable painter did a job - how long would you expect it to last?

 

[Barneyp]

I think the problem maybe partly be caused by your trust in a "professional paint job" that just means you paid someone to do it, it doesn't mean they were an expert or did it properly.

If your going to pay someone its worthwhile checking what process they are going use, and if that matches the paint manufacturers recommended process. And ask them how long they would expect your chosen finish to last.

A good painter will recommend a good paint, and tell you if what your asking for isn't a good idea.

[Seren-y-dwr]

look - i know all that

 

• assume competent painter
• how long will it last

?

Seren-y-dwr narrowboat .pdf

[Alan de Enfield]

In my experience after 5 years its is starting to look tatty, by seven years its a mess and by 10 years it looks like its been abandoned.

[LadyG]

I would put this behind you, and start again.

The main reason for painting is to stop rust.

If you want a proper job, all stripped off,  signwriting, etc etc, then you need to find someone with a two to three week slot and fork out up to £10k. I think most people pay the painter and the signwriter separately, but they need to co-ordinate.

Red, of course will fade more quickly than anything else.

I''m up North and the local guy has the polytunnel booked all summer, he takes two weeks for each boat, and its £4k  or more. No one can tell how much work any boat needs, so the painter has to give a round figure.

If you are angling at going back to ABC to complain, ask for a re paint, take them to court, I suggest you forget it. 

 

.

 

 

18 minutes ago, Seren-y-dwr said:

so blacked to gunnels by ABC and painted red above that by them in 2017. Some areas seem undercoated, others dont, overall dont think its very good. So I have been topping up myself. 

 

However i would like to know if a reputable painter did a job - how long would you expect it to last?

 

There will still be paint on the boat after twenty years, as evidenced by numerous boats I see every day.

I would use a self employed painter who specialised in steel boat painting

 

Edited June 2, 2022 by LadyG

[Seren-y-dwr]

thank you lady and alan - what i am trying to work out in my head is if i should do a crap but prob ok ish job myself or go professional - i am still mulling at the moment

 

[LadyG]

15 minutes ago, Seren-y-dwr said:

thank you lady and alan - what i am trying to work out in my head is if i should do a crap but prob ok ish job myself or go professional - i am still mulling at the moment

 

I paint my own boat.

It does not have any serious rust which would require removal of windows, but you may not know this is untill you remove old paint.

I am quite experience with paints, and painting, so I know what I am doing.

No way would I start a job thinking it would be cr@p.

I have painted this boat twice, using different paints in each case.

I have had  some assistance with prep. Not because I am unable to do a better job than the boy who helped, but because it's an exhausting process if you have a big boat.

I am quite pleased with the recent job, if I did another three or four, I'd be happy to set up as a painter,  it is hard work, and seasonal.

 

 

Edited June 2, 2022 by LadyG

[Barneyp]

16 minutes ago, Seren-y-dwr said:

thank you lady and alan - what i am trying to work out in my head is if i should do a crap but prob ok ish job myself or go professional - i am still mulling at the moment

 

Do you want a boat that looks perfect, or do you just want to stop it rusting.

 

You need a professional full grit blast and repaint for a perfect boat.

 

Or if you just want to stop it rusting and have it look ok do it yourself, on any areas of rust clean back to bare steel and patch prime, then sand the rest to give a key and topcoat. You can either book into a polytunnel every 5 or so years, or just do it bit by bit whenever the weather is nice. Personally I'd do it myself, unless I had a spare £5000+ to pay a professional every 5 years.

[LadyG]

What he could do, assuming he has power, and not in a marina!

Buy a pro standard orbital sander. And a good detail sander, sand the roof, strip every bit where rust appears, dig down to bare metal, use rust treatment.

Prime bare metal, prime with primer undercoat to level the surface, may need specialist primer undercoat. Ask specialist paint providers. Read data sheets.

After two weeks check for rust, if any, I mean ANY, then go over it again.

Sand to 120, is it smooth? Remember this is a training exercise! Keep going untill you have a perfect surface.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Tony Brooks]

14 minutes ago, Barneyp said:

Do you want a boat that looks perfect, or do you just want to stop it rusting.

 

You need a professional full grit blast and repaint for a perfect boat.

 

Or if you just want to stop it rusting and have it look ok do it yourself, on any areas of rust clean back to bare steel and patch prime, then sand the rest to give a key and topcoat. You can either book into a polytunnel every 5 or so years, or just do it bit by bit whenever the weather is nice. Personally I'd do it myself, unless I had a spare £5000+ to pay a professional every 5 years.

 

We had a "professional" paint job and it micro-blistered in areas within days. Mainly a darkish green with a thick red and thinner yellow coach line. The outfit also had it sign written. The paint was Masons.

 

By polishing the cabin sides a couple of times a year we kept it looking OKish for maybe five or six years. Then the paint was looking dull and chalky, especially the red), so an annual cut back with Tcut or similar and the wax polish kept it looking OK for perhaps another 8 years. The only problem was that the sign writing paint is so soft it gradually wore away, so you could see the cabin colour through it, the cabin sides were suffering a degree of battle damage. Areas under the window frames were also rusting, causing leaks.

 

I spent one summer taking windows out, treating the rust, and repainting. As the green had faded the repaint areas stuck out like a sore thumb so it was repaint time but no way would I pay and risk a similar outcome, a DIY job seemed to be indicated, but it was complicated by having to remove the sign writing because if that is not done you can usually see shadows of the signwriting through the new paint job. I decided to keep the original  yellow line and repaint red. So to cut a long story short it was hand rub out the sign writing with wet & dry paper. Locally rub back any rust spots, treat and build up with several layers of primer and when hard rub back by hand. Mask up the yellow line and the random orbital sand the main cabin side and red line. De-dust and degrease with spirit wipe (not white spirit).  Then two coats of self colour undercoat followed by two top coats of gloss with a de-nib, very light sand and spirit wipe. After each coat remove the masking after the paint had set (at least 12 hours) and with a soft cloth with cellulose thinners to carefully wipe away any bleed from under the masking. All painting was done between the time the mist and dew cleared in the morning (summer) and about 09.30, so it was not too hot.

 

Having already tried front line and second line "marine" paint brands that did not seem to flow out well I chose Johnson Trade oil based gloss. Green on with a 4" roller and laid off with the most expensive 4" brush I have ever bought. Red line brushed on. No thinning or paint extender. I was very surprised at how this turned out. I am no painter and hate doing it. All finished with a vinyl name to avoid the problems caused by sign writing.

 

So all in all I would say give it a go yourself, especially if there is no or little signs of rust, but try to avoid reds, they are well known for fading and chalking.  I would also suggest a lighter coloured roof. Cream or grey in a mat or semi-mat  finish to reflect the sun's heat and to prevent the reflection from the roof dazzling you. All done on the canal bank.

 

 

 

 

 

[Seren-y-dwr]

thanks all for advice, understand red fades - problem is i like the colour! So i think i will have to live with the fade.

[Tony Brooks]

30 minutes ago, Seren-y-dwr said:

thanks all for advice, understand red fades - problem is i like the colour! So i think i will have to live with the fade.

 

Keep it waxed and at least if you DIY it is less of a job to do a quick flat down and new top coat every few years.

[Barneyp]

2 pack epoxy paint will last a lot longer without fading, but you would need to strip back to bare steel and ideally get it blasted.

Maintenance will be needed less frequently, but the initial cost will be high.