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Buck Boost DC-DC converter not found by TSConfig

MickH

By MickH
in General Boating

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MickH Engager

MickH

Posted
Posted

I have recently had Lithium batteries installed and a 100amp Buck Booster built into the system however when the TSConfig software is run, a window called "Setup converter connection" appears. When I select the option "Automatic search and connect" it says "searching for converter" but nothing happens.

When I select the option "Manual search and connect", it says "please select the converter COM port and connect...", but then nothing else happens. I tried unplugging the USB cable and plugging it into a different USB port, but nothing happens

Some one went on the Victron forum in July this year but got no responses, can anyone on here please offer any useful advise.

On the buck booster, currently hav a slow flash blue light and flashing green light. When the engine is started the leisure alternator warning light on the instrument panel stays lit suggesting there is no charge going into the lithium batteries. My system has a seperate alternator to charge the starter battery.

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nicknorman Veteran II

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I have never used that software, but just had a quick look. Did you install the USB drivers? see bottom right of the "setup converter connection" popup window.

Also you could check in Windows Device Manager that the plugged-in USB device has been recognised.

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nicknorman Veteran II

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4 minutes ago, MickH said:

Yes both options at the bottom were tried, tried on 3 different laptops, now awaiting help from Victron should it ever arrive. USB device was recognised on all occasions too. there is no trouble shooter either😒

I don’t have the interface so can’t try it out, but presumably if you look in the Com ports section of device manager it will show you the assigned com port to select - or is the problem that you can’t see how to select the comport? It might help if you posted a screenshot of what you see when you’re stuck.

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Posted
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16 hours ago, nicknorman said:

Anyway, once you get it working please let us know how you get on with it. Quite a few people have used Sterling B2B but these seem pretty inefficient and a bit clunky! If the Victron solution is a good one, this will be useful information.

I'll second that request. I'd also appreciate some clarification here too please. I believe that the Sterling device is a is straightforward

, one way battery to battery charger. A Buck/Boost device does a whole lot more ...... but I can't quite get my head around what that is and therefore where the difference(s) lie.

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frangar Veteran II

frangar

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, MickH said:

Can't get any positive feedback even from Victron ref trouble shooting and not being able to get into the TSConfig, dead end at the moment

Have you tried posting on the Victron Forum? The tech staff are usually quick to respond as are other users 

 

https://community.victronenergy.com/index.html

 

edited to add.....

 

I think Ive just seen your post on there!!

Edited by frangar
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nicknorman Veteran II

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29 minutes ago, MickH said:

Thank you so much for that link, I can now see the TSConfig. Just got to establish now why the input voltage is on 0.3v, any ideas?

You didn’t really explain how the device was connected. Is the domestic alternator connected directly to the device, or is there also a lead acid battery connected across the alternator / input to the device? It seems likely to me that the latter is required in order to smooth out the ripples from the alternator - although I don’t know for certain.

 

But anyway, what actually is the input voltage to the device (measured with a meter)?  Obviously if there is no battery on the input, and the engine isn’t running or the alternator warning light is on, there isn’t going to be significant input voltage to the device.

 

It would be easier if you explained how the device is connected up, rather than us guessing!

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MickH Engager

MickH

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My boat is fitted with 2 alternators, a small one for the starter battery and the leisure alternator is a Barrus 240 amp 12v. I am not too savy with electrics and did not do the wiring. I can if it helps explain how it is all wired. I am out at the moment but can give that detail if it helps. Thank you for your help and advise.

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MtB Veteran II

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Posted
Posted
4 minutes ago, MickH said:

My boat is fitted with 2 alternators, a small one for the starter battery and the leisure alternator is a Barrus 240 amp 12v. I am not too savy with electrics and did not do the wiring. I can if it helps explain how it is all wired. I am out at the moment but can give that detail if it helps. Thank you for your help and advise.

 

Yes please, the more detail the better! 

 

I'm a bit concerned that you have lithium batteries but say you are not really savvy with electrics. This is not a good mix. The more you can get to understand about what you have and how it works, the better. And explaining here what's been fitted (plus perhaps some photos) will be very helpful to you in understanding your installation, as well as us. 

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nicknorman Veteran II

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Posted
Posted
22 minutes ago, MickH said:

My boat is fitted with 2 alternators, a small one for the starter battery and the leisure alternator is a Barrus 240 amp 12v. I am not too savy with electrics and did not do the wiring. I can if it helps explain how it is all wired. I am out at the moment but can give that detail if it helps. Thank you for your help and advise.

Ok. I think the key questions are:

1/ is there another (lead acid) battery across the alternator and input to the device?

2/ when you run the engine, does the domestic alternator light go out?

 

Of course if there is no intermediate battery and the engine isn’t running or the alternator warning light is on, it isn’t surprising that the device is showing 0.3v at the input.

 

A common mistake is that you think that by paying someone to install some equipment, they actually know what they are doing and have done a good job. I don’t know what the circumstances of the installation were, but clearly whoever wired it up didn’t commission the system and check it was working properly. Which is worrying!

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MtB Veteran II

MtBDonate to Canal World

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, nicknorman said:

Ok. I think the key questions are:

1/ is there another (lead acid) battery across the alternator and input to the device?

2/ when you run the engine, does the domestic alternator light go out?

 

Of course if there is no intermediate battery and the engine isn’t running or the alternator warning light is on, it isn’t surprising that the device is showing 0.3v at the input.

 

A common mistake is that you think that by paying someone to install some equipment, they actually know what they are doing and have done a good job. I don’t know what the circumstances of the installation were, but clearly whoever wired it up didn’t commission the system and check it was working properly. Which is worrying!

 

Indeed, but commissioning an installation which involves installing software on the customer's IT kit is a totally different ball game from fitting and wiring up the new hardware. 

 

I fitted a Hive central heating controller a couple of years ago. It took me an hour to fit it and the client (a computer programmer) about 8 hours to get it configured and working. They eventually sorted it out with the unofficial help of a Hive employee who PMed them with an unofficial workaround. 

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nicknorman Veteran II

nicknormanDonate to Canal World

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1 hour ago, MtB said:

 

Indeed, but commissioning an installation which involves installing software on the customer's IT kit is a totally different ball game from fitting and wiring up the new hardware. 

 

I fitted a Hive central heating controller a couple of years ago. It took me an hour to fit it and the client (a computer programmer) about 8 hours to get it configured and working. They eventually sorted it out with the unofficial help of a Hive employee who PMed them with an unofficial workaround. 

Yea but I don’t think installing software is required for a functional check in this case. The device will come ready set up with default settings to work out of the box, the software is just to fine tune the device, in the same way as one might do likewise for a Victron Combi etc

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