MickH

Hi Graham, I did thankyou. I drilled out the screw on the inside of the catches. Thankfully successfully with breaking any glass!!! New ones fitted with new washers, as good as new now.

No Graham it just a smooth end, tried gripping that with mole grips but to no avail. I am going to try WD40 and hope it gets down to the screw thread failing that will try heating the screw head up, fingers crossed one of them works

The screws do not look rusted, I have a feeling they have been secured with glue as they just won’t budge. Obviously I have to be careful the glass does not get broken You can buy the catches from Black Country Metal Works

The washer looks like it has broken up, so the metal catch is scratching the glass. I have new one identical to replace them with

Hi Some these catches are scraping on the glass, so need to replace them. Can you please advise how to remove them. As they just keep rotating, when I hold the outside with a pair of mole grips I cannot turn the screw, its as if they are glued. Any help you can give would be greatly appreciated Regards Mick

Am I correct that pump has to be fully submersed to work so am I right in thinking you open your valve into aa tray/bowl of some kind

Thank you all for your time and help, especially Tony for your pateince. Perhaps all boat builders should be scrutinised to ensure their work does not create aggro for the boaters who entrust them. We live in hope.

May I ask what is the pump you attach please. looks a great neat tidy job👌

Thankyou all for your constructive comments, I don't want to fall out with anybody, but honestly I do not need to be told that it is a dodegy job that has been done, or that I do not have a clue!!! I may be a bit touchy yes and that is why, I am happy to accept constructive criticism. It is only too common in most marina's today let alone at building stage. I have had t oput many bodges right and wish to do so correctly and so I do not have to go back and do the same job twice. Even on this post there are two suggestions one being putting a tee in along with a vent, preferably a manual one or reroute the hoses through the bulk head, which probably would be more preferable. for the latter.I have looked on midland chandlers and cannot see a suitable bulkhead connector, my hoses are J20 R3 16mm x 23mm

Not sure why you accuse me of sarcasm, you clearly know it all, I know very little but willing to learn, but never needed to be told that every boat is different, nor do I need to read that "I would not have a clue". I will leave you to roost a totally unhelpful forum, but at least I can spell, perhaps you too could learn something, before sending your highly unhelpful comments, read them first or at least learn how to check a spell checker!!! To Tracy D'arth, a polite question and answer works both ways, I came on for geniune help but received a persons personal assumptions and accusations

Well thank you for your rant, most helpful

Can't speak for why the boat was built as it was, suffice to say the hoses go up through the bulkhead and down to the califorer.I cannot presently answer your enquiry about how the hose connects to the calorifier as steps are not out. The boat was built with a switchable gate valve that can heat up the radiators whilst the engine is running or if you switch it the other way to boiler the Eberspacher heats them up , whichs complicates it more I am sure.

We have a Barrus Shire 12 45hp-031857,the problem really is I think because the hoses go up and over the bulkhead and then down again to the califier, with the air trapping at the top point. Thankyou ref the bottle air vent, did you do this to both hoses or just the return and please can you tell me how you attached it to the J20 R3 rubber hose as the vent has a 15mm compression joint? Thank you for your help and time, greatly appreciated

Hi Tony, The calorifier is under my steps which I have to unscrew and remove to get to it. The other option you mention is to remove the return hose, is this the one that goes to the engine block AND NOT the hose that goes to the thermostat housing?

Hi All, I cannot remove all the air out of my hoses going from the engine to the calorifier as the highest point of them is where they leave the engine bay and go through the bulkhead to the califorier. I havee tried running the engine several times at upto 3000revs, without success, as well as twisting and squeezing the hoses. I saw a post where bleed vents were recommended to be installed at the highest point. Would this prevent this issue whenever I change the antifreeze and if I were to cut the hose and put a "t" piece in can anyone advise what type of vent I would need and how would I attach it to the "T" piece. My hose is te standard J20 R3 16x 23mm rubber hose, and if possible a link to parts needed. Thank you in advance

My boat is fitted with 2 alternators, a small one for the starter battery and the leisure alternator is a Barrus 240 amp 12v. I am not too savy with electrics and did not do the wiring. I can if it helps explain how it is all wired. I am out at the moment but can give that detail if it helps. Thank you for your help and advise.

Thank you so much for that link, I can now see the TSConfig. Just got to establish now why the input voltage is on 0.3v, any ideas?

Sorry for the delay, covid and all, still no joy with the TSConfig, when I look for drivers all I get is "No drivers available"

👌

Yes I have, someone posted the same query back in July but they got no response at all.

Can't get any positive feedback even from Victron ref trouble shooting and not being able to get into the TSConfig, dead end at the moment

Yes both options at the bottom were tried, tried on 3 different laptops, now awaiting help from Victron should it ever arrive. USB device was recognised on all occasions too. there is no trouble shooter either😒

Thank you Tony

I have recently had Lithium batteries installed and a 100amp Buck Booster built into the system however when the TSConfig software is run, a window called "Setup converter connection" appears. When I select the option "Automatic search and connect" it says "searching for converter" but nothing happens. When I select the option "Manual search and connect", it says "please select the converter COM port and connect...", but then nothing else happens. I tried unplugging the USB cable and plugging it into a different USB port, but nothing happens Some one went on the Victron forum in July this year but got no responses, can anyone on here please offer any useful advise. On the buck booster, currently hav a slow flash blue light and flashing green light. When the engine is started the leisure alternator warning light on the instrument panel stays lit suggesting there is no charge going into the lithium batteries. My system has a seperate alternator to charge the starter battery.