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Okay I have a wheel house that we’ve used high quality varnish, and two pack

but every year the varnish seems to get worn parts.

 

now I’m thinking just use a good quality oil

ie 

 

https://www.bestwood.co.uk/product/bestwood-teak-wood-oil-uv-5-litres/

 

has anyone had the situation of having to protect hard wood on their boat, using oil?

or is varnish the only way to go.

getting sick of using top varnishes, and still having problems

 

many thanks in advance

 

 

col

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Yes, I have used something which actually works, need to think about the name.

Decks o ley, from Force Four chandlery. On good hardwood.

It is DEKS Olje. It is like an oil, but its not. 

Don't try Danish oil, that will not work. 

There are plenty of good yacht varnishes, as always preparation is the key, strip it down, a minimum of five coats. 

I have not used the two packs. 

In desperation, on a very poor veneer I used Sadolin stain, then Sadolin Yacht varnish, about eight costs. Lasted nearly five years, but expensive, I used their best grades. 

Never use a polyurothane varnish, it behaves like nail varnish. 

If your wood is an oily wood (not likely), it will 'reject' conventional varnish, so, I think it is not wise to use something like Danish oil, but I think DEKS Olje will be fine. You can  usually use the help desk (freephone) of the better companies. 

 

Edited by LadyG
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1 hour ago, bigcol said:

Okay I have a wheel house that we’ve used high quality varnish, and two pack

but every year the varnish seems to get worn parts.

 

now I’m thinking just use a good quality oil

ie 

 

https://www.bestwood.co.uk/product/bestwood-teak-wood-oil-uv-5-litres/

 

has anyone had the situation of having to protect hard wood on their boat, using oil?

or is varnish the only way to go.

getting sick of using top varnishes, and still having problems

 

many thanks in advance

 

 

col

 

 

When were in a marina on the Trent, we moored next to a wooden sailing boat (biggish one) he was a liveaboard and spent every free hour each Summer re-doing the varnish.

The Sun light and different expansion rates meant that whatever he had done the previous year was crazed and crack the following Summer.

He was absolutely meticulous about preparation but varnish (and to a certain extent) paint, wood and weather do not good bedfellows make.

 

You could always do what the military have done with 'wood' for 100s of years - Linseed oil.

 

Taking 'dry' wood give it one coat a day for a week, then one coat a week for a month then one coat a month for a year, then once a year for the rest of your life.

Gives a waterproof, nice finish (can be matt or glossy) that is also non-slip.

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I stained and oiled my boat pole and boat hook with tung oil.

 

I followed A de E's advice above, but after 6 months the oil wasn't fully drying between applications so I left it.

 

A year on it still looks good.

 

I have some Iroko gates, originally treated with Osmo Oil, which has deteriorated around the nails this winter. I am thinking of sanding these back, staining them (they have faded on the sunny side) and treating with tung oil.

 

I have used Le Tonkinous yacht varnish on the cratch of my boat. It Is good, but need a light sanding and another coat adding every year, which is more onerous than applying another coat of tung oil.

  • Greenie 1
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