SR2 Leak Off

[BODs SR2]

I threaded the nut that connects the leak off pipe to its Injector?. Need a new leak off pipe assembly. There's one at half the price on ebay but the outlet is stern side instead of bow. The assembly output is connected to a 'T' that sends a feed back to the tank and also a feed which is coupled to the filter outlet. Is the filter outlet feed necessary. If not I can get the stern side one and couple the tank return which is easy as it's flexible hose and blank off the coupling to the filter outlet thus avoiding work and expense. I'm sure you understand.

[BEngo]

Talk to MES (Midlands).  Richard or Sue will sort you out.  Sorry but you will have to google their number as I don't have it handy.

 

N

 

 

[BODs SR2]

Ta

[Tony Brooks]

19 minutes ago, r-harris said:

I threaded the nut that connects the leak off pipe to its Injector?. Need a new leak off pipe assembly. There's one at half the price on ebay but the outlet is stern side instead of bow. The assembly output is connected to a 'T' that sends a feed back to the tank and also a feed which is coupled to the filter outlet. Is the filter outlet feed necessary. If not I can get the stern side one and couple the tank return which is easy as it's flexible hose and blank off the coupling to the filter outlet thus avoiding work and expense. I'm sure you understand.

 

The red bit - it depends on where it is. If it's on the pipe to the lift pump then possibly not but if its elsewhere and maybe a bit higher than the feed to the pump then its job is to bleed a small amount of fuel plus any air that has found its way into the system back to the tank so it can't cause an airlock in the pumps and require bleeding. As yours seems not to have the self bleed option from the injector pumps I would suggest it's not a good idea to blank it off. The engine will run OK once bled but if there is the slightest air leak into the system or air dissolved in the fuel it is likely to stop eventually -  usally at the worst moment.

[Steve56]

As Tony Brooks has said the reason for the  pipe is to allow any air trapped in the fuel filter to return to the tank. The engine will work without but could cause you problems if any air is present. Lister would always fit this pipe on engines fitted with a fuel lift pump. On gravity fed engines it was not fitted.

[BODs SR2]

Sounds logical to me. Ill pay a bit more and leave it firmly in place. 

Regards to you all.

[Tony Brooks]

Aren't they copper pipes? If so annealing the new pipes should make them bendable by hand so you could convert the new on to what you want. Just take it easy and a brake pipe bender may help.

[BODs SR2]

Thanks Tony. Already ordered like for like. Forgive me as I'm a bit of a rookie. What does 'annealing mean I've heard it a few times.

[Steve56]

3 hours ago, r-harris said:

Sounds logical to me. Ill pay a bit more and leave it firmly in place. 

Regards to you all.

After a quick look at ebay it seems some have the threaded fitting forward and some have the fitting to the rear of the engine. It seems like a lot of these parts are some sort of copy. To my knowledge all genuine Lister SR leak off rails would have the thread at the forward end.

[BODs SR2]

That's what I've gone for. A bit dearer but more convenient and wont break the bank.

 

BTW Does anyone have a handle on adjusting the idle speed re. p36/7 of the manual ie. where physically is the assembly marked A-G on p36. How can I access it???

[Steve56]

Post a picture of what your looking at and may be able to advise.

[BODs SR2]

As requested. 

[BEngo]

14 hours ago, r-harris said:

Thanks Tony. Already ordered like for like. Forgive me as I'm a bit of a rookie. What does 'annealing mean I've heard it a few times.

Annealing softens the metal and makes it more ductile/ easier to bend/ less likely to crack.

 

For copper pipe:  Heat it to red and allow to cool. 

 

For Brass:  Heat to a very dull red, just, and allow to cool.  Brass is likely to melt if over heated so be very careful.  Fittings do not need to be annealed, and there is not a lot of brass pipework about, fortunately.

 

For Aluminium:  Heat hot enough to just char a matchstick.  Allow to cool. Again, be careful the Al doesn't melt.  It gives no warning of this.

 

For mild steel:  Heat it to bright red and cool slowly.  Bury it in hot ash is the usual blacksmith trick.

 

For alloy steel:  Find a professional with a heat treatment oven.

 

 N

[BODs SR2]

Interesting

[Steve56]

14 hours ago, r-harris said:

 

 

BTW Does anyone have a handle on adjusting the idle speed re. p36/7 of the manual ie. where physically is the assembly marked A-G on p36. How can I access it???

Items shown are the components and adjustment of th idle spring. This is found behind the fuel pump housing door fitted on the fuel pump rack on the rear most pump. Basically you would set this so the engine runs a little slower than the recomended idle speed. Then on the speed control lever increase the speed to the recomended idle.

[Arthur Marshall]

Is fitting the leakoff something a numpty can do? Mine (SR2) has almost certainly gone and I have difficulty finding an engineer round here. It doesn't look that tricky, but if there are specific washers involved I might not risk it!

[Steve56]

There are no washers where the leak off rail fits into the injector. Just undo the nuts and remove. It may be necessary to remove the injector clamps to allow the pipe to be lifted out. Basically should be ab easy straight forward job.

[Arthur Marshall]

Thanks. Famous last words, but I'll have a go.

[Tony Brooks]

I am not so sure because I think all the S series had an option for self bleeding and if so the leak off pipe has spurs that drop down through the push rod chest and connect to the injector pump bleed screws. If you take the rocker covers off and there are no pipes that disappear down into the depths of the engine then I agree with Steve but would add that I would get new rubber bushes if they are not supplied with the new pipe.

 

Personally I would take it off, anneal it and then take it to an old school car body shop or garage with brazing kit and get it silver soldered unless it's the injector connection that has failed. I reckon a bit of folding money would sort it. In that case I would smear the rubber bushes with non-setting jointing compound like Hylomar.

[Arthur Marshall]

No, there aren't any pipes going into the bowels of the engine. I'm not sure where it's failed - I'm guessing this is the source of the problem as it was both previous times I wound up with diesel in the oil.

I'll try to get a friend to oversee the operation - he may be bribable with coffee and cake, but he reckons he's too old to mess with Listers any more and will only touch proper engines in proper engine rooms, preferably with only one cylinder!

[BODs SR2]

There is quite a flow of leakoff fuel on my sr2 and the pressure pushed diesel past the failed threading of the injector connector bolt and on its merry way to the sump. It’s import therefore to ensure it’s in properly. When done run the engine with injector pump and valve/injector covers off and look carefully for leaks. 

[Tony Brooks]

15 minutes ago, BODs SR2 said:

There is quite a flow of leakoff fuel on my sr2 and the pressure pushed diesel past the failed threading of the injector connector bolt and on its merry way to the sump. It’s import therefore to ensure it’s in properly. When done run the engine with injector pump and valve/injector covers off and look carefully for leaks. 

Amen to that.

 

And pack around the potential leak areas with clean, dry kitchen towel so you get a better indication of a minor leak. Minor in not very large, not minor as in don't worry about it, especially on these Listers.

Edited March 23, 2021 by Tony Brooks

[BODs SR2]

On 22/03/2021 at 09:33, Steve56 said:

Items shown are the components and adjustment of th idle spring. This is found behind the fuel pump housing door fitted on the fuel pump rack on the rear most pump. Basically you would set this so the engine runs a little slower than the recomended idle speed. Then on the speed control lever increase the speed to the recomended idle.

Genuinely cant find it all ref photo of the flywheel end. Nothing remotely resembling it there.

[Steve56]

1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:

I am not so sure because I think all the S series had an option for self bleeding and if so the leak off pipe has spurs that drop down through the push rod chest and connect to the injector pump bleed screws. If you take the rocker covers off and there are no pipes that disappear down into the depths of the engine then I agree with Steve but would add that I would get new rubber bushes if they are not supplied with the new pipe.

 

Personally I would take it off, anneal it and then take it to an old school car body shop or garage with brazing kit and get it silver soldered unless it's the injector connection that has failed. I reckon a bit of folding money would sort it. In that case I would smear the rubber bushes with non-setting jointing compound like Hylomar.

As Tony Brooks said check for pipes going down to the pumps. I did forget to mention this. Although to be honest I think these were used more on industrial engines. Very rare on a marine unit.

4 minutes ago, BODs SR2 said:

Genuinely cant find it all ref photo of the flywheel end. Nothing remotely resembling it there.

We need to see the other side of the pump in the photo.

[Tony Brooks]

4 minutes ago, Steve56 said:

As Tony Brooks said check for pipes going down to the pumps. I did forget to mention this. Although to be honest I think these were used more on industrial engines. Very rare on a marine unit.

We need to see the other side of the pump in the photo.

 

FWIW all our SL4s had them and they were mated to LH150 boxes so were bought as marine units.