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notts_alan

Paint recommendation

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At the moment I am doing a full repaint , I have been back to bare metal , vactan treated in a few places and covered with two coats of red oxide.

I am looking at paint choices now but there is so many .

I would welcome any knowledgeable opinions , epoxy 2 pak ? Polyurethane 2 pak?

I am looking for a shiny gloss finish , cream on the roof and black everywhere else , planning on adding aggregate for anti slip areas.

Back deck has a bit of pitting(would epoxy fill pitting in ?)  but besides that steel is pretty good.

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2 minutes ago, notts_alan said:

At the moment I am doing a full repaint , I have been back to bare metal , vactan treated in a few places and covered with two coats of red oxide.

I am looking at paint choices now but there is so many .

I would welcome any knowledgeable opinions , epoxy 2 pak ? Polyurethane 2 pak?

I am looking for a shiny gloss finish , cream on the roof and black everywhere else , planning on adding aggregate for anti slip areas.

Back deck has a bit of pitting(would epoxy fill pitting in ?)  but besides that steel is pretty good.

 

If you go for two-pack you'll need to take it back to bare metal. ANY trace of single pack paint and the two pack will blister.

 

I'm in the middle of doing the same

 

2-3 coats of 2-pack High-Build primer

1 coat 2-pack undercoat

1 cost 2-pack High-Gloss

2-pack deck anti-slip on walkways / roof

 

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Epoxy generally is onto grit blasted bare steel. 

2 pack polyurethane is good but takes a lot of brushing out.

Have you considered water based acrylic car 2 pack sprayed on?

Was the red oxide water based?

 

I use International Toplac, mainly because I can touch it up and it gets repainted every 8 to 10 years anyway.

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The red oxide was the no nonsense Screwfix one.

The final painting will be sprayed , I have just put the oxide on with a roller for protection , was this a mistake if using 2 pak ?

 

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34 minutes ago, notts_alan said:

The red oxide was the no nonsense Screwfix one.

The final painting will be sprayed , I have just put the oxide on with a roller for protection , was this a mistake if using 2 pak ?

 

Yes

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It's always best to use a matched set of paints from the primer upwards, red oxide unfortunately doesn't offer much protection due to its porous nature. 

  If using two pack paints you need to adhere to the overcoating times to achieve the best bond between coats, not always easy if not in a protected environment. 

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Yes I am going with the Jotun range primer / topcoat .

It's worth the extra work to get a decent finish , 5 days and I should be back to steel again , I thought the vibrating hands and numb fingers had finished for now but never mind.

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14 minutes ago, notts_alan said:

Yes I am going with the Jotun range primer / topcoat .

It's worth the extra work to get a decent finish , 5 days and I should be back to steel again , I thought the vibrating hands and numb fingers had finished for now but never mind.

Use this stuff - it is excellent, tho  expensive.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Peelaway-Marine-Boat-Antifouling-Stripping-Antifoul-Remover-Paint-Stripper-10Kg/323843655360?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

I am using it at the moment:

 

 

29-7-19 H.jpg

 

 

29-7-19 F.jpg

Stripper 1.jpeg

Edited by Alan de Enfield

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Looks like it does a good job stripping , I am going to wait until paint arrives before stripping back , I tried a spot with the sander and it did not seems to bad a job , maybe just a extra 4 or 5 days work.

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I always believed that the red oxide primer was waterproof and the grey wasn't? Mind you, that's for conventional car type / cellulose sort of paints. I see now the red oxide comes in only water based or oil based. 

Jotun seem to do just about every type of paint (I presume you are getting from SML). Full range of colours, not expensive and good service - and they can deliver canalside. I've been using the "conceal" as I have mentioned on here many times. It's coverage is awesome - great for decks/roof, not too shiny. You can thin it a bit to get a smoother final coat. It does dry very quick though (it's the Xylene based one basically like cellulose) so you can't lay it off with a brush but you can get a good rollered finish if you are very quick. My plan has been to put lots on so I can cut it back if I want to. The good thing is after one coat you just go straight back round.

I guess you'll be using two pack from what you say - good luck!

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5 hours ago, Johny London said:

I always believed that the red oxide primer was waterproof and the grey wasn't? Mind you, that's for conventional car type / cellulose sort of paints. I see now the red oxide comes in only water based or oil based. 

Jotun seem to do just about every type of paint (I presume you are getting from SML). Full range of colours, not expensive and good service - and they can deliver canalside. I've been using the "conceal" as I have mentioned on here many times. It's coverage is awesome - great for decks/roof, not too shiny. You can thin it a bit to get a smoother final coat. It does dry very quick though (it's the Xylene based one basically like cellulose) so you can't lay it off with a brush but you can get a good rollered finish if you are very quick. My plan has been to put lots on so I can cut it back if I want to. The good thing is after one coat you just go straight back round.

I guess you'll be using two pack from what you say - good luck!

As far as i'm aware all red oxide and similar primers are porous out of necessity, to allow a better bond to the following coats. Similar story with undercoat i presume. 

  Having worked in a few bodyshops and seen replacement panels in various shades of factory primers, i've never seen any that protect from moisture.

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