1500 bmc overheating

[Lingy]

Looking for some pointers etc ..

Also looking to find a manual really as my boat is being brought back for me but they have had weeds in the raw water system a few times causing over heating ....I am in Coventry at the minute,and the boat is stuck behind a fallen tree in Huddersfield somewhere , so i want to know where the impeller is on this boats raw water system so i can replace it. I am also  trying to find out what's what while i am at it so i can get parts and get to it to fix it .

I will try to attach a few pictures ,can anyone point me in the direction of an online pdf or manual?

 

 

Cheers 

Edited July 1, 2019 by Lingy

[RLWP]

Your legs need waxing

 

Pretty sure this is the raw water pump:

 

 

ASAP have an online manual here: https://www.asap-supplies.com/media/faq/131000-bmc-1.5-manual.pdf

 

Richard

Edited July 1, 2019 by RLWP

[Lingy]

Thank you Richard

I thought as much,this one has a greece pipe attached,do they need greece every trip ?

Cheers

 

[RLWP]

8 minutes ago, Lingy said:

Thank you Richard

I thought as much,this one has a greece pipe attached,do they need greece every trip ?

Cheers

 

Not every day, do it every so often. It's hard to say exactly

 

The pump - first check is take the end cover off. This will tell you if the rotor has fallen to bits or if it has got bunged up (I'm guessing you have cleared the inlet and water strainer)

 

The end cover should tell you the make and model of the pump if you need to get a new rotor. If you do, get two and keep one as a spare

 

Richard

[Alan de Enfield]

Just for future :

 

I find that trying to replace the impellor (inside the water pump) on a regular basis is a real PITA, you simply are not flexible enough to get down and watch as it slides in on its splines or key-way, and hold the rubber vanes so they go in the correct direction.

 

 

I have found it is far easier to have a spare complete pump  and just swap it over and you can then do the fiddly bits sitting upright with the pump on the table.

 

You may need an impellor 'puller' to remove the old one.

WHEN INSTALLING THE NEW IMPELLOR MAKE SURE THE VANES BEND IN THE DIRECTION OF ROTATION OR THEY WILL BE 'RIPPED OFF' and you will need to install another one.

Use Vaseline to assist in installation.

 

Your water pump should look something like this (mine is driven by a 'cog' in the engine where the hydraulic pump normally attaches - yours may be driven by a fan-belt but the pump will look similar.

 

 

Edited July 1, 2019 by Alan de Enfield

[Lingy]

25 minutes ago, RLWP said:

Not every day, do it every so often. It's hard to say exactly

 

The pump - first check is take the end cover off. This will tell you if the rotor has fallen to bits or if it has got bunged up (I'm guessing you have cleared the inlet and water strainer)

 

The end cover should tell you the make and model of the pump if you need to get a new rotor. If you do, get two and keep one as a spare

 

Richard

I will ask the guy at the boat to pull the cover off if he has cleared the inlet and strainer,is that the funnel looking bit Richard?

Really appreciate the help 

Thanks 

[RLWP]

2 minutes ago, Lingy said:

I will ask the guy at the boat to pull the cover off if he has cleared the inlet and strainer,is that the funnel looking bit Richard?

Really appreciate the help 

Thanks 

Yes, the round thing just to the right of the bruise:

 

 

Richard

[Alan de Enfield]

If the boat has not been used for some time the rubber impellors 'dry out and stick inside the housing', when you start the engine and the pump wizzes around it will tear the ends off the vanes. the pump is then 'barely working' and as soon as you need power the engine will overheat.

On boats that are 'laid-up' for a period of time' the impellors are normally removed and stored in a jar of glycerine to keep them flexible.

[TheBiscuits]

8 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

Use Vaseline to assist in installation.

Jabsco say use glycerine not any petroleum based lubricant.  Available from supermarkets in the baking section, pharmacies or home brew shops.  Some impeller spares have a sachet of it in the box.

 

3 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

On boats that are 'laid-up' for a period of time' the impellors are normally removed and stored in a jar of glycerine to keep them flexible.

So you wouldn't need the vaseline then!

[Alan de Enfield]

1 minute ago, TheBiscuits said:

 

 

So you wouldn't need the vaseline then!

For those that remove for the off-season - NO

 

For those that don't and they get stuck and need replacing - Yes (or the little glycerine sachet)

[Peter X]

Report from the boat! We identified the inlet strainer earlier, cleared a lot of gunk (mostly plant matter) from it, and that helped but not for long. We poured some canal water into it hoping that would help get it going, and for a while the boat went along with the temperature guage showing 80 and a trickle of water coming from the outlet on the side of the hull. But after just a few hundred yards we'd be back to 100 with just some steam coming out. Stephen currently looking at this water pump to find the end cap.

[Peter X]

In the position circled by RLWP is what must be the water pump. It's driven by a wheel with a fanbelt, which does turn when the engine is on. One end is held on by 6 bolts which so far we haven't  been able to undo. Lettering on it says XX Fluid Handling Ltd. Where XX is some letters I can't make out.

[RLWP]

2 minutes ago, Peter X said:

In the position circled by RLWP is what must be the water pump. It's driven by a wheel with a fanbelt, which does turn when the engine is on. One end is held on by 6 bolts which so far we haven't  been able to undo. Lettering on it says XX Fluid Handling Ltd. Where XX is some letters I can't make out.

That's the raw water pump you are looking for

[Lingy]

1 hour ago, RLWP said:

Yes, the round thing just to the right of the bruise:

 

 

Richard

Spot on Richard  thank you,i will have to go up and strip it in the morning.

22 minutes ago, Peter X said:

In the position circled by RLWP is what must be the water pump. It's driven by a wheel with a fanbelt, which does turn when the engine is on. One end is held on by 6 bolts which so far we haven't  been able to undo. Lettering on it says XX Fluid Handling Ltd. Where XX is some letters I can't make out.

Try to get the phone camera in to capture the numbers ?And send me them over? 

Save me some time finding parts,obviously it is blocked or has imploded on itself with lovely weed and crud off the lovely  broad canal.

[Alan de Enfield]

1 minute ago, Lingy said:

Spot on Richard  thank you,i will have to go up and strip it in the morning.

If the lid has not been off for a while you may find it 'welded' itself into place.

I had to make up a Spanish Windlass with some string and a screwdriver to get mine (on the Cat) loosened.

[Lingy]

Anyone hazard a guess on which impeller i need ?

Or where i can grab one on my way up to Huddersfield from Coventry?

[Alan de Enfield]

Just now, Lingy said:

Anyone hazard a guess on which impeller i need ?

Or where i can grab one on my way up to Huddersfield from Coventry?

There are 100s of variations you will need to know the make and model of the pump. It should be on the cover plate :

 

Like this :

 

 

[Lingy]

4 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

If the lid has not been off for a while you may find it 'welded' itself into place.

I had to make up a Spanish Windlass with some string and a screwdriver to get mine (on the Cat) loosened.

How many bolts hold the covers on? 

[Alan de Enfield]

1 minute ago, Lingy said:

How many bolts hold the covers on? 

6 on mine. (see above picture)

Edited July 1, 2019 by Alan de Enfield

[Lingy]

3 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

6 on mine. (see above picture)

Do you need any kind of special tool to remove them or do they simply sit in place? Looking at yours it looks like a spline tool is needed?

[RLWP]

6 minutes ago, Lingy said:

Do you need any kind of special tool to remove them or do they simply sit in place? Looking at yours it looks like a spline tool is needed?

It depends on the model of the pump. If it has a spline in the middle like that one, you can usually prise the rotor out

 

Richard

[Alan de Enfield]

1 minute ago, Lingy said:

Do you need any kind of special tool to remove them or do they simply sit in place? Looking at yours it looks like a spline tool is needed?

It is (again) down to when it was last changed.

You can get an impellor puller (but you'll need to know the size of the impellor), OR, it could just simply slide off if you pull it with a pair of needle nose pliers.

 

Some impellors fit on splined shafts but some  fit in a 'key-way'.

Put a plastic bag under the pump and hopefully it will catch any 'bits' (key) that fall out.

 

If the ends of the vanes (the round 'balls') of the impellor are missing you should try to find them as they may get sucked into the system and cause a blockage. Have a poke about in the pipes (you might need to remove them) and see if you can find them.

 

If the end of the vanes is simply 'worn' then the fragments will be very small and will not cause a problem.

 

Hopefully you will be able to see the difference between 'torn off' and 'worn'.

[RLWP]

There are also some designed by some rotten swine that have a grub screw passing through the rotor!! You have to take the screw out of the cam plate to get to the grub screw

 

When you have a picture of the end cover of the pump, we will be able to tell you a lot more

 

Richard

[Lingy]

1 minute ago, RLWP said:

There are also some designed by some rotten swine that have a grub screw passing through the rotor!! You have to take the screw out of the cam plate to get to the grub screw

 

When you have a picture of the end cover of the pump, we will be able to tell you a lot more

 

Richard

I think they are struggling to remove the cover,i will try to get there later or tomorrow morning to get the details off it,

appreciate the info and help.

[RLWP]

Get them to dangle a mobile phone down facing the cover and take a picture of the pump.

 

It would be best to know what the pump is - some are now obsolete and the parts are no longer available. Your raw water cooled BMC 1.5 is likely to be pretty old, so don't be surprised if you end up buying a replacement pump

 

Richard