Raising engine coolant tank

[WotEver]

3 hours ago, RLWP said:

Oh yeah? Well - my dad is bigger than yours

My dad’s a policeman so nyah!

[Strettonman]

My dad is a weed do I can’t compete ?. 

 

Anyway, thanks for the advice. I think I can sort the water level issue. Someone had suggested to me that I could use the water tap off points normally used to supply a cabin heater in a vehicle to feed the calorifier but I’ve tried looking at manuals online but haven’t managed to identify any ‘plugs’ in the engine block. Have I been given a bum steer here or does the 1.5 diesel BMC have these take off points and can they be used for the calorifier ? 

If so, where are they. Presumably they would allow flow before the engine thermostat opened so would start heating earlier. 

[Mike Jordan]

The heater connection is a brass tube that sticks up from the head near to the thermostat housing, it may have been blanked off with a threaded plug. calcutt will have the part. As you say the centrifugal circulation pump will provide plenty of flow and pressure for your needs.

[RLWP]

1 minute ago, Mike Jordan said:

The heater connection is a brass tube that sticks up from the head near to the thermostat housing, it may have been blanked off with a threaded plug. calcutt will have the part. As you say the centrifugal circulation pump will provide plenty of flow and pressure for your needs.

It could be the other end of the head, similar place

[Boater Sam]

1 hour ago, Strettonman said:

My dad is a weed do I can’t compete ?. 

 

Anyway, thanks for the advice. I think I can sort the water level issue. Someone had suggested to me that I could use the water tap off points normally used to supply a cabin heater in a vehicle to feed the calorifier but I’ve tried looking at manuals online but haven’t managed to identify any ‘plugs’ in the engine block. Have I been given a bum steer here or does the 1.5 diesel BMC have these take off points and can they be used for the calorifier ? 

If so, where are they. Presumably they would allow flow before the engine thermostat opened so would start heating earlier. 

The flow, hot, connection is on the rear of the head, flat on top behind the rockerbox corner and should be a 1/2" BSP tapping, its a different thread on a 1.8D so beware buying the correct take off part.

The return is to the water pump, the vehicle used a tapping on the bottom radiator  hose, you will have to create a tapping in your bottom hose  usually with a copper tee, 28mm X 28mm X 15mm, use a "Yorkshire" capillary solder ring tee then the rings make good hose retainers with Jubilee clips.

5/8" rubber hose will fit the tee and the head take off.

 

Double check all this as its been a while since I converted a 1.5D, some heads had different tappings because the Turkish and Indian made Heads are different from the UK ones!

[Strettonman]

Thanks. I need to get back to the boat this weekend to see if I can find the connections you refer to but here is a photo from above. 

Boater sam - do you think the hot flow take off is the bolt bottom left (just above yellow hose) ? That is the one someone Thought it might be but I thought being in the corner it was likely to be a head bolt.

 

btw, I am well aware it needs a clean ?. Had to limp it back with a blowing exhaust so whole engine engine bay is having a deep clean - what fun !!!! 

The other alternative is the one top left under the hose in this picture (I cleaned it off to highlight it

[RLWP]

I'm not boater Sam but

 

Yes, either of those. That saved me having to photograph a 1.5 head for you

 

Richard

[Strettonman]

Sorry Richard. Got my messages mixed up. That’s great. Just to confirm - I should be able to pick off the flow to the calorifier from either of these points by the rocker box and then tee into the return hose for the return from the calorifier. 

 

When i I put it like this it all sounds so easy ?. Fingers crossed. 

 

Cheers

[The Word]

40 minutes ago, Strettonman said:

Thanks. I need to get back to the boat this weekend to see if I can find the connections you refer to but here is a photo from above. 

Boater sam - do you think the hot flow take off is the bolt bottom left (just above yellow hose) ? That is the one someone Thought it might be but I thought being in the corner it was likely to be a head bolt.

 

btw, I am well aware it needs a clean ?. Had to limp it back with a blowing exhaust so whole engine engine bay is having a deep clean - what fun !!!! 

The other alternative is the one top left under the hose in this picture (I cleaned it off to highlight it

Just a heads up for you Boater Sam is talking absolute rubbish - the hex headed blanking plugs are 5/8 UNF, available here ASAP https://www.asap-supplies.com/bmc-leyland-outlet-fitting-for-water-heater-206799 1/2 bsp is massive compared to 5/8 unf. I have tapped a head with a damaged thread to 3/8 bsp before now, that was done with the head off in a well equipped machine shop not in the bowels of a boat!

 

use the rear most fitting - it’s much more easier to get on to!

 

for the return tee into the hose from your skin tank to the water pump hose, you are likely to find that much easier to get a tee for it.

 

from memory the water pump hose tail is around 1 1/4 (32mm) so a 28mm solder ring fitting will be far too small.

 

Hope this info gets you on the right path and steers you away from some of the nonsense you have been given passed off as fact ?

[Boater Sam]

Go for the one near the yellow hose, better circulation down the length of the head. Unusual exhaust manifold/header tank. Not seen a Mermaid marinisation before.

Tee into the hose on the water pump, job done.