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  1. Hello! Is it straight forward to replace / install a new starter battery to a narrowboat? How do I find out which battery to buy and is there a specific procedure to follow when it comes to removing the old one and fitting the new replacement? Thanks
  2. Hi, I have not started my boat in a few months (3 or so) and I am now unable to kick start it. I have oil, diesel, batteries. I have tried multiple times, maybe too many times because at some point the engine was barely reacting Here is a video of an attempt. https://streamable.com/kpwjjw
  3. Hi, I'm in the process of buying my first narrowboat to live aboard and have viewed a really nice boat. My only concern with the boat is the engine running hours as it's an ex hire boat. The engine is a Beta 35 with almost 12,000 hours, it was serviced a year ago and had new filters and belts but that's the only engine history I can get at the moment. Should this be a concern or is 12,000 hours not to much of a problem if the engine starts and runs well? Thanks
  4. Hi there, I am looking to sell my two Kelvin TASC-8 diesel engines, from 1986. The box is not available, but all ancillary parts are available. 8 cylinders, 31 liter. 440 hp, rpm 1200. I thought there may be a collector out there interested, or a company who could find the parts useful. Does anyone know a place that would take these off my hands? Thank you for your suggestions.
  5. Hi all, I know some boats the only gauge is almost what you feel through your feet and some boats have as many dials as an old aeroplane. So what do swear by and which ones are only useful in 'theory'? As show in the pic the last owner never finished the back cabin of the trad and most of the dials were never connected. So it needs sorting and I want to sort it out right. Love to hear your thought/opinions and prejudices on the matter!
  6. Hi, Please could you give your recommendations on the internal enclosure to separate the cabin from the engine, batteries etc. For a trad stern. Just getting a boat and this is the one area that is still a project. So there is the floor above the engine for the entrance. But now wall around the engine or to close off the engine bay. Beyond being: solid, sound damping, reasonable weather proof easy to clean from engine grime Ease of engine access. What madatory requirements or practical considers are relevent? What construction would you recommend? Eg plywood, metal etc How to make it sturdy and easy to disassemble? Sure there is much I've missed would love to hear your thoughts! James
  7. Hi I bagged a bargain and now own a Lister Petter lpws4a, please correct me if I'm wrong the (a) stands for anti clockwise. I am trying to get parts for it it come without a starter and the alternator is a mess. The flywheel was also flooded and i'm praying will still spin. I am looking for some info for the correct parts for this model, I can't find a lot online atm, and I am a complete novice with engines, and now keen to learn more. Thanks for reading and thanks in advance to whom may help.
  8. Hi there, I’m fairly new to boat building and am in the initial stages of fitting out my boat. I did have a look but couldn’t find anything on the following questions. I have a couple questions that I could really use an experienced boaters expertise on: I currently have a 55hp canalline engine onboard with the normal two alternators, the domestic is a 12v 175A alternator. My first question is: does anyone have experience with replacing it with a larger alternator? For example a 24v 400A alternator? If yes, how did it go? How did you mount it? I appreciate running your engine is not pleasant for boating neighbours and know about the restrictions in time when running it. In order to prevent the alternator from running at idle and not pulling through that many amps, is there anything stopping me disengaging the gear wire on the engine and throttling a little bit? At the moment the main thing I’m trying to work out is if I should fit a bigger alternator and run the engine for 45mins a day or go with solar and run the risk of it getting stolen in London. I’m sure I will have loads more questions in the future but to start with thanks for your help with these two.
  9. Hi, I have a bmc 1.8 which has recently started letting a little coolant and steam out of the coolant cap when it has been running for quite a long time. I don't think it is a blown head gasket as doesn't have other main symptoms. Milky looking oil, bubles in coolant etc. I know this doesnt rule it out completely but want to be able to rule out other things before assuming it's an expensive issue. I fitted a new alternator belt, as was a little worn in case it was the pump not working properly. After that, was able to run the engine (without moving the boat) for about an hour and a half with no issues so thought that had sorted it. However after about 40 minutes cruising today it started to happen again. On further inspection I found a minute leak (barely even a drip) in the coolant system which I have fixed (Just by tightening the connection on one of the hoses) and have run idle again for another half hour (while it was already hot from crusing) with no issues. I'd read leaks could be a cause as let's air in which can lead to overheating so hoping this may have fixed it. But wondered if others may have further advice as to things I could look to diagnose/rule out. If it happens again my next thought would be to try a new coolant tank cap. It only seems to happen when cruising so need to move to diagnose whether various things have fixed it or not. As long as I keep an eye on it and don't let it keep running if it begins to happen again, I wondered if this posed any risk/further damage to the engine (realise that will depend largely on what the problem is) The coolant level is the same as it has always been and the main engine temp thermometer has still never gone over its usual of around 70c. If it persists I realise I'll have to get a mechanic in at some point as I'm no expert. But interested in people's thoughts as to whether there are any easy things I can mess around with myself first. Thanks in advance! Sam.
  10. Hi, Purchasing this boat and just wanted a second opinion on water in the engine bilge. I’ve attached some pictures and wondered if anyone had any advice comments as to the amount of water of the general condition of the area. its a 30ft steel hull narrow boat 1995 with a beta marine engine. The brokerage say it’s just rain water and I tend to accept then but still as a first time buyer it’s slightly concerning. cheers!
  11. Hi any advice as to specs to look for much appreciated , thanks and sorry If i have been bombarding you with lots of questions the pressure is on to get this right, as I know you’ll understand.
  12. We are about to buy our first second hand narrow boat after many years of hiring. We are after a 55 - 60 ft for extended cruising (almost continuous) and would like to do rivers as well as canals, ie Thames, and Ribble link to the Lancaster etc. Is a 38HP with PRM 120 or equivalent man enough for the job or do we need a 42 HP with PRM 150.
  13. So we've been having issues with our raw water system - turned out the impeller shaft on the Jabsco 7860 was really scored and having a new one machined - this was letting water into the sump so have been giving her a deep clean - thought I would descale the exhaust manifold as it's full of limescale - on removal I noticed one cylinder has water in the exhaust part and little limescale while the other side has a dry exhaust but loads of limescale? Why could this be?? Also any descaling solutions that won't harm engine or environment? Thanks, Ed
  14. Hi everyone this is my first post here. I have a 1982 50ft skillcraft NarrowBoat with a BMC 1500 engine in it. Recently the BMC is becoming increasingly unreliable and has a large amount of piston slap in the block. It does not smoke but takes a stupid amount of heating cranking and more heating to get it to start and it tends to run on three cylinders out of four until it gets rather high on the revs. I have done a compression test. There is almost no compression in cylinder 1 but the rest seem ok. This engine was rebuilt 3 years ago by calcutt boats who I believe are the BMC experts. After all the hassle of keeping my BMC running I have decided to remove it and install a Lister HR3 in an engine room rather then an engine bay since my boat is ripped out to a shell and I am doing a self fit out. My plans are to have the bedroom at the back of the boat and have the engine room directly after my bedroom then my bathroom and then kitchen and living area. To install my HR3 I understand that it requires good strong steel bearers for it to live on. My boats baseplate is 5mm thick and I am thinking I am going to have to have this reinforced to take weight of the HR3 as it is 400kg of engine mounted on steel bearers in the middle of the boat. Am I right in thinking the tourqe that this engine produces could be an issue or would a 5mm base plate be able to handle the stress of the HR3. The gearbox I intend to use is going to be either a PRM 101 or a PRM 160, the gearbox is to be remotely mounted away from the engine on the engine room bulkhead under the bedroom. The prop shaft would be supported by using 3 carry bearings mounted on bearers secured to the base plate. This HR3 Is an ex Generator engine and has no variable speed but I can replace the govener at a later date. Any advice is greatly appreciated Regards TCB
  15. Hi all Over last week's very cold spell the light on the engine temperature warning light came on, accompanied by the it's sister, the terrifying beeeeeping sound. I switched the engine off and hoped that the complaint was about the ridiculously low temperature, but as switched it on again last night it happened again. I'm now guessing the engine is overheating and not very cold. (Sorry for not knowing much about engines by the way). So which one is it and what are the most likely causes of this? Thanks a lot
  16. Hi, I'm new to the forum and unfortunately I have a question and need help already! (BTW this forum has been invaluable when we have been researching- so thank you to those that keep it running.) The boat (2001) we just got surveyed has come up with a good hull (somethings to put on the 'to-do' list but nothing to worry too much about). However, the engine (beta- 28) is leaking- oil and water, and the thermostat (I forget the name of it- though it was the thing that is connected to the engine to tell you how hot the engine runs) has been disconnected. The suggestions made were that this engine could take between £1000 and a £a-new-engine to fix. This is our first boat, and so we would like to ask do you think it is worth continuing with the sale, in a similar situation would people usually walk away when confronted with replacing an engine? In your experience, is it best to have the brokerage deal with fixing this issue before we proceed with purchasing, or should we negotiate on the price and then find our own place to have her fixed? On the brokerage website it states that boats will be repaired following a survey- and that if we put in a lower than asking price offer (which we did- £2000) lower than the repairs- if they fall within that range will be up to us to cover. So if the repair costs £2000 they say that the owner has already paid that by accepting the lower offer. But, that's crazy because we put in an offer of what we were happy to pay for the boat- not what amount we were hoping to repair!!! Arrrr! Many many thanks for any replies Anna
  17. Hey guys new on here so wasnt sure where to post, just picked up a narrowboat with an sr2 in, but i'm struggling to find out the best way to adapt the throttle for a morse. It came with a morse and 33c cables but it has an original lister throttle cable, I can see some people are using 33c cables and i'm trying find the way around it talked to sleeman and to lister and no one seems to have an answer any help would be appreciated ive added a couple of pictures ( promise i don't keep my engines in this condition as i said only just picked it up!) Cav
  18. Hello! Having found some very useful anwers on here previously, I was wondering if someone might help us with a problem we've got concerning the engine. To turn the engine on, we turn the key 90degrees clockwise and wait while it beeps for about 10 seconds. This is supposed to heat the engine. Then we can turn the key down once and this will turn on the engine. Since yesterday, after having turned the key down, the engine turns on and makes a happy noise, but the beeping doesn't stop, even after a few minutes of the engine being lit. Looking at the electronics control panel,one warning light is on: "Batteries D". (We were also told that the batteries should always remain above 12.8V. The inverter is off, however, they are now at 11.7V.) Is there anything we could try to do to fix this problem? Can we run the engine anyway (we were told that the engine should be run every day in winter)? Any help or indications on this topic would be much appreciated! Many thanks
  19. Hi everyone, I have very nearly bought a narrowboat that has a Perkins 4203 engine but will require a gearbox and transmission. Can anyone offer any advice on this? I only have experience of motorbike engines so am a bit out of my depth, so to speak! Thank you for any advice!
  20. Our Alexander/Riverview semi-trad has two grilled vents into the engine compartment, one on either side of the hull. The grilles of both of these are subject to regular accidental removal, mostly from catching against the armco at moorings. One of them is directly next to the battery bank, the other opens into an empty space. There are two other vents into the engine space as well. Do you think they're likely to be essential for the cooling of the Barrus 2000 engine, or would the other two vents be enough? I've seen numerous boats with apparently no vents to the engine space. Any thoughts, please?
  21. Can anyone recommend anybody (themselves or someone else) to service our Izuzi engine? It's Model No 3CB1 - C, 2008, 25 HP. Also crucially where to get Oil, Diesel and Air filters???
  22. Hi all, For a while I've been toying with the idea of buying a narrowboat to continuously cruise along the London Canals, for a few weeks or so I've been doing a fair bit of research but for some areas I still haven't found the answers I'm looking for so thought I'd turn to you guys to see if you can help me out at all! Apologies in advance if some areas have been discussed already and also, if any of the questions sound silly... I really am a complete newbie to this... 1. As I mention - I'll be CC along the Canals in London, so have been researching what distance as I need to travel each week, obviously don't want to take the mick and want to stay on the right side of Canal and River Trust. However, their website isn't totally clear on how far - all I can see is that in a years licence, 15-20miles is expected, which seems more than fine. But how far is the minimum? Just for an example, say I started in Little Venice and was travelling East, how far would I need to travel to satisfy the Canal and River Trust for say one weekend I didn't want to travel 'that' far? 2. Which brings me on to my next point - as I read, each 14 days would be the time I top up water, which would top up my batteries (as I'm moving) and usually empty the loos out. May seem like a silly question but are these water points at regular intervals? Similarly, to electric points? (if I needed it half way) Also, are loo-emptying-places at regular intervals also? 3. Again, brings me on to my next point of water storage tanks and electricity batteries... my budget is around 25k and aiming for around a 40ft-er trad steel narrowboat so from what I've seen, many don't have a tank or seems quite small. If so, can this be retrofitted and to what cost? I understand becoming more frugal is all part and parcel of it (which I'm excited about) but for say a 10/15minute shower a day - what sort of tank should I be looking at to tide me over for two weeks? However, I guess this would hinge on question number two! In terms of electricity, I don't watch a lot of TV but would like to charge my phone, listen to music, have lights! Where should I even start with what to look for to tide me over 2 weeks again? 4. I guess this question is more to the nitty-gritty when I view but what are the main tips/points you'd recommend to look out for a bad conditioned narrowboat? Is there such a thing? Don't mind buying something that requires a bit of modernisation but in terms of 'behind the scene' stuff, what do I look for when looking at an engine? At the electric board? Heating system? Or should this all be taking care of at survey stage? Anyway, I think that's probably enough for now on my first post. I really would appreciate any tips/answers - no matter how big or small! Really excited to be buying - just need to get my head around it all first!! Speak soon, Nat
  23. Hi there, This is my first post, although I'm regularly reviewing other topics for help with our liveaboard narrowboat! Thanks in advance for reading. We have a Mitsubishi K4E keel cooled engine (4 cylinder 1.4l) in our 52ft narrowboat, which will not start due to loss of compression concluded by RCR. We have been recommended 3 options: 1. Overhaul/rebuild; 2. Replace with a used/recon engine; 3. Replace with a new engine; We have looked into new engine prices/fitting etc and it's simply unaffordable for us. Any advice on options 1 or 2 would be really really appreciated, and if further information would help, I can see what I can provide you. Many thanks for your time.
  24. Hi everyone, we are new to the community and new to boating, so looking for some advice on a boat we are considering buying (for a small business with commercial mooring; not live aboard). Before viewing the boat we were advised (by boating friends, sadly not local so couldn't come along) to look out for rust on the waterline and in the bilge. There seems to be rust in both areas (see pics), though we're unsure how superficial. The owner unfortunately has not had a survey done, though it has been out for reblacking about three years ago and he says should be slightly overdue another three coats now (Comastic). It's a 55ft 1999 narrowboat which will also be needing a new engine. Obviously we'd be looking to get a full survey done before commiting anything, but my question is, based on these issues, is it worth it at all or would it be better (particularly given our inexperience) to walk away (or possibly try to haggle down substantially)? We're not shy of doing the work, but would like to pay a fair price and know what we might be walking into. Perhaps estimated price ranges (for boat or work) would also be useful, though I know this might not really be enough info to go on. Thanks in advance! Attached are some pics we took of the rusty areas:
  25. My Lister 2 cylinder wc engine has been diagnosed as having a faulty water pump as well as requires new hosing for the cooling system (header tank filled). I am having real problems getting an engineer to come out to do the work. Can anyone recommend an engineer that is happy to work in London. I am moored in E5, close to Springfield Park. Many thanks in advance.
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