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Showing results for tags 'engine'.
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Hi there, I am looking to sell my two Kelvin TASC-8 diesel engines, from 1986. The box is not available, but all ancillary parts are available. 8 cylinders, 31 liter. 440 hp, rpm 1200. I thought there may be a collector out there interested, or a company who could find the parts useful. Does anyone know a place that would take these off my hands? Thank you for your suggestions.
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Hi all, I know some boats the only gauge is almost what you feel through your feet and some boats have as many dials as an old aeroplane. So what do swear by and which ones are only useful in 'theory'? As show in the pic the last owner never finished the back cabin of the trad and most of the dials were never connected. So it needs sorting and I want to sort it out right. Love to hear your thought/opinions and prejudices on the matter!
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Hi, Please could you give your recommendations on the internal enclosure to separate the cabin from the engine, batteries etc. For a trad stern. Just getting a boat and this is the one area that is still a project. So there is the floor above the engine for the entrance. But now wall around the engine or to close off the engine bay. Beyond being: solid, sound damping, reasonable weather proof easy to clean from engine grime Ease of engine access. What madatory requirements or practical considers are relevent? What construction would you recommend? Eg plywood, metal etc How to make it sturdy and easy to disassemble? Sure there is much I've missed would love to hear your thoughts! James
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Auction of engines, outboard motors and gearboxes etc.
Tracy D'arth posted a topic in Boat Equipment
Just got notified of this auction in Lincolnshire. Some good looking engines and stuff if you are into that sort of thing. https://auctions.eddisons.com/auctions/8176/eddiso11329?primaryCategoryCode=COV&page=3&pageSize=60 -
Hi all! I've noticed that my beta 43 seems to be chucking out more black muck that I'm really happy with. As yours is my first boat and first boat engine, I don't know if this is what you'd expect. You'd can see the muck here: Any advice? Thanks!
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Just found out today that my BMC 1.5 could cost thousands to repair... The chap could only have a quick look at it, but there's a major knocking noise coming from somewhere and it will only operate at very low load. Very smokey, etc. He can't get to having a proper look at it until next month, but he reckons it could cost thousands to repair... With me not having thousands, I was wondering what my other options are? It might be considering getting hold of a replacement engine - so would I have to replace it with another BMC 1.5 or can something else go in? And where's a good place to get hold of a decent used engine at a reasonable price? Thank you, James
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Hi there, We have recently been having problems with losing power on our batteries, so around 4 weeks ago, we have 4 new leisure batteries fitted. However the problem has continued. Our inverter has started beeping and the fridge is cutting off, so i think the batteries have lost power. -We had the batteries fitted by experts, so I think they were fitted properly. -We charge the batteries from the engine. And have been running the engine for at least an hour a day and sometimes up to 4 hours to attempt to recharge. -We have only been running lights, fridge, tv (sporadically) and water. No charging/laptops etc. -We only turn the inverter on when we need power from the sockets, which is around an hour a day. -We have been reassured that they were top quality batteries If anybody can help with advice as to why we are losing charge/not charging up, any advice would be appreciated, as we have no power at the moment. I am also worried that the £450 we spent on new batteries has gone to waste and that the batteries are now dead. Thanks
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Hi everyone, As discussed in http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?s=5dc518cf8a09055355d099b8c954c3c2&showtopic=62621 I bought a replacement alternator and fitted it. Its exactly the same and fitted with a new belt. My problem now is the engine won't start! Initially when I turned the key nothing happened at all but after checking all the wiring is seated properly the engine tried to start. I did the usual heat for 30 seconds and then turned the key. The belt just spins and there is no sound of the engine attempting to start properly. I have checked and the diesel line is open, the battery is hooked up and the charger has been on so it is charged. The only thing I think is different is that the spring in the hole at the top right of here.. ..doesn't glow red when I turn the key to "heat". I am pretty sure it did before (although I may be mistaken). Could this be it or is there something else I should be looking for? I am still learning about engines and electrics so sorry if this is a stupid question -
Hi All. Was doing a bit of maintenance on my 1.5 BMC last weekend, changed the belts etc. I've had a loose lever on the Morse control for ages, so seeing as I had the tools out, I tightened that. Realised the cables were quite loose too and after a bit of looking around and poking it looks like the whole system is a bit bodged. Where they attach to the control end, one of cables isn't fastened, so when you move the lever the whole cable (inc sheaf) moves, rather than just the wire inside the cable. Other than that, I think the system is in good condition, but a lot of adjustment is needed, ie: *Movement forward and backward is very stiff *The engine rev's loads before the propeller is engaged in either direction Has anyone played with a Morse? any tips? Is it worth trying to de-grease the inside of the cables or is it just better to buy a new set? Thanks, Jess
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Hello - I'm baffled as to what the button on the left of the dashboard is supposed to achieve - grateful for any advice.
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Hi all, i bought a classic sailing boat with an Lister STW3 engine and a LH 150 reverse gear. Unfortunately it sticks sometimes in forward, so i decide to check the friction material of the clutch cone. To do so, i try to dismounting the reverse gear but it doesn't move off. Is it required to dismount the adaptor together with the reverse gear case? Thanks, regards, Roland
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Hello fellow boaters ! We bought our boat last May, moved from Bristol to Newbury to 'pick it up'. We finally set off from Newbury in September, but.. sadly.. we got a rope wrapped around the propeller, and knackered the engine - within half an hour. We've been stranded in Newbury, having spent all of our existing cash on various other 'engineering issues'. Anyway, we're full time musicians, we street perform and gig around the UK - it's a sort of an alternative combination of soul/folk in the form of an acoustic duo.. guitar and vocals with accordion.. I blog regularly about our experiences. After everything, I massively look forward to getting on the move, living the real boat life, meeting all of you.. and playing our music wherever we go. If you want to follow the journey, or just even say Hi ! Check it all online Many thanks, have a fantastic 2014 ! Bex x www.facebook.com/rebeccacullenmusic www.rebeccacullen.co.uk (for the music and blog! It's all free, I promise ) -
HI All, They're great boats, aren't they? The gift that just keeps on giving... and so, another year another set of issues... Over xmas hols i fitted new rads for a newly installed back boiler. I also finally sorted out our paloma plumbing, which was plumbed into the hot water system along with the calorifier (as one system, and therefore did not work properly, as the paloma would pump hot water into the calorifier!). But now both the rads and the hot water are not connected to the calorifier (i have put stop ends on both sets of pipes coming from it). When i ran the engine for three hours a coupe of days ago when I turned the engine off there was a hissing and quite a bit of steam coming from the engine well. When I opened it it seemed like it was coming from nearby one of the pipes going into or out of the calorifier. Am I being stupid? OK, I didn't drain the two systems that were previously plugged into it (but the rads have always been turned off at a tap new to the calorifier as they were blocked (hence new ones). But there appears to be also be a pipe going from the calorifier to a skin fitting in the engine compartment so I would have thought that if it was too hot then steam and hot water should be ejected from this? Could the hot water from the engine that heats up the calorifier element be getting too hot because there is no flow into and out of the calorifier to take the heat away? If the latter how can I block this off?? I might start using the calorifier again soon as I think I will connect up the rads again and have it feed in (with taps to turn off when engine not in use) to the back boiler-heated central heating system. Does any of that make sense?????
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Hey guys, When I was re-fitting out the engine room and sorting the engine out I accidentally/stupidly connected the wrong wire to one of the terminals on the alternator. The cable went up in flames and now I guess the alternator is dead.. The engine runs fine without it but the LED light is always on indicating that the batteries aren't charging. The alternator fitted to my engine has the following markings: Which has led me to the following websites after a quick google of the barcode number and model number: http://www.recambioverde.es/detalle-pieza-1572965.html http://www.hcparts.com/Default.aspx?ID=773&GroupID=RemanufacturedStartersAlternators/Alternators&ProductID=CA305IR#Austin To me this looks like a standard car alternator. Am I right in this assumption? What do you believe is my best course of action in either repairing it or replacing it? If replacing it should I find an identical model or would any alternator do? Its not essential that I replace this immediately as I have the batteries hooked up to a charger but I'd like to get this sorted before I take the boat out in Spring Many thanks for any help or advice you can give..
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Hi everyone, I hope some engine-clever people can help me figure this one out. A few weeks ago I was cruising on my boat, when for the first time ever a red warning light on my dashboard came on. Unhelpfully, this light has no label - and as it's remained off for the two and a half years I've owned this boat, I have no idea what it means. I knew it couldn't be good, but there was no chance of mooring for another hour, so I plunged on, then had to leave straight away. I did check the battery voltage on my electronic display, and everything seemed fine in that department, so I assumed it must be an oil problem. Yesterday I checked my oil - it was black, so I changed it, and for good measure I filled it all the way to the maximum level. I then started the engine with some high rev in neutral, and the warning light came back on! I idled the engine, and the light disappeared. I slowly added to the rev until the light started blinking, then added more 'til the light came on solid. At this point I wondered if it was just a case of leaving the new oil to circulate for a while, so I left the engine on idle for half an hour - to my dismay, when I came to look at the dashboard again, that light was a solid red, even on idle! All the while, the batteries seem to be charging fine. So unless the fuel filter needs changing, I've run out of ideas. The engine in question is an air-cooled Hatz (link: http://www.hatz-diesel.com/en/products/diesel-engines/l-series/product/details/name/2l41c/) and it's always been incredibly quiet. It's between 5 and 7 years old, and it's a beaut. The last thing I want to do is kill it through ignorance - can anyone suggest what this warning light might be saying? If it's practical, I'll buy a beer for whoever helps me get to the bottom of this. If it isn't practical, I buy you one as soon as it is. Thanks a lot, Noam
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I have spent the last three months (ten hours a day) restoring an extremely rare 1926 Dutch marine engine (Van Rennes) acquired from ebay. This has been the subject of a thread on the semi diesel sub-forum. I finished it a week or so ago and posted a youtube video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=1JKFhUvfApk This morning I arrived at work (where the engine is) to find that another individual who rents space in the same building as me, has moved my forklift truck and in doing so has managed to ram the engine. This has broken the cast iron governor casing right round and has bent the crossshaft (sort of camshaft) which drives the governor, the air start valve, the fuel pump and the oil pump. I have not seen him yet to talk to but he did not leave me a note confessing to having done this. NOT HAPPY
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Hi everyone, we are new to the community and new to boating, so looking for some advice on a boat we are considering buying (for a small business with commercial mooring; not live aboard). Before viewing the boat we were advised (by boating friends, sadly not local so couldn't come along) to look out for rust on the waterline and in the bilge. There seems to be rust in both areas (see pics), though we're unsure how superficial. The owner unfortunately has not had a survey done, though it has been out for reblacking about three years ago and he says should be slightly overdue another three coats now (Comastic). It's a 55ft 1999 narrowboat which will also be needing a new engine. Obviously we'd be looking to get a full survey done before commiting anything, but my question is, based on these issues, is it worth it at all or would it be better (particularly given our inexperience) to walk away (or possibly try to haggle down substantially)? We're not shy of doing the work, but would like to pay a fair price and know what we might be walking into. Perhaps estimated price ranges (for boat or work) would also be useful, though I know this might not really be enough info to go on. Thanks in advance! Attached are some pics we took of the rusty areas:
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Hi, I'm looking at buying a narrowboat, but its original engine - a keel cooled Yanmar 4TNE84 diesel engine - has packed in. Seems there was a problem with the coolant pipe, which caused damage probably to one or more of the pistons or the block, but maybe to something else - rebuilding it failed to fix the problem. Anyway, it's out of action and my engineer friend recommends scrapping it and replacing it. I'm new to boating (I thought about putting this in the New To Boating forum, but thought this probably made more sense) and wanted to get some advice on replacing an engine. What kind of money should I be expecting to pay to buy and install a decent engine in a 55' narrowboat? What kind of timescale would be sensible for getting a replacement and getting it fitted? What sort of trade-offs might I be making if I really wanted it replaced within a month, say? And can anyone recommend someone to fit it in Edinburgh or surrounds? Thanks a lot!
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Hi there, This is my first post, although I'm regularly reviewing other topics for help with our liveaboard narrowboat! Thanks in advance for reading. We have a Mitsubishi K4E keel cooled engine (4 cylinder 1.4l) in our 52ft narrowboat, which will not start due to loss of compression concluded by RCR. We have been recommended 3 options: 1. Overhaul/rebuild; 2. Replace with a used/recon engine; 3. Replace with a new engine; We have looked into new engine prices/fitting etc and it's simply unaffordable for us. Any advice on options 1 or 2 would be really really appreciated, and if further information would help, I can see what I can provide you. Many thanks for your time.
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My Lister 2 cylinder wc engine has been diagnosed as having a faulty water pump as well as requires new hosing for the cooling system (header tank filled). I am having real problems getting an engineer to come out to do the work. Can anyone recommend an engineer that is happy to work in London. I am moored in E5, close to Springfield Park. Many thanks in advance.
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Hi, Anyone with experience of working with boat engines please can we have some advice?! Have just bought a narrowboat and trying to work out if we need to replace the engine or if its repairable- I've attached a photo below of the problem- it has a hole in the crank casing. If it needs replacing does anyone know where we can source a suitable engine for a 57' on a tight budget. Seen calcutt prices and theyre way out of our league. Thanks for your help, Imogen and Staszek
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Our Alexander/Riverview semi-trad has two grilled vents into the engine compartment, one on either side of the hull. The grilles of both of these are subject to regular accidental removal, mostly from catching against the armco at moorings. One of them is directly next to the battery bank, the other opens into an empty space. There are two other vents into the engine space as well. Do you think they're likely to be essential for the cooling of the Barrus 2000 engine, or would the other two vents be enough? I've seen numerous boats with apparently no vents to the engine space. Any thoughts, please?
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231401856821 Has anybody used something like one of these neat radiators, they will take 8mm microbore fittings. I wanted to link them into the engine's cooling system and I'm concerned that these radiators may not take the pressure.
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Hi there, I've been following this forum for a while but never posted before, always really useful advice on so thanks! Our engine is not turning over when we try to start it but we don't believe it to be anything major as it was running fine a year ago but then we've been away and haven't tried to start it again until now. The electrics are working as the heater kicks in when we start the ignition and the engine tries to turn over when we turn the key fully. It's at this point though that we can't get any further. Hopefully just an issue of re-lubricating the engine properly or perhaps finding a part which has caused the engine to jam? Perkins 4108 Diesel So far we've changed the oil and removed the injectors to spray some diesel down into the slots we've removed them from. The next step we believe is to manually turn over the engine using the large bolt at the front which is by the belt which is connected to the starter motor. Again this is something we have attempted. But this is where we are confused. The bolt turns with not too much force but the wheel it is attached to is not turning but I believe it should? Why would the bolt turn but not the wheel? What do you think is the next step? Hope this all makes sense. Thanks for your help!
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Sorry title of this thread should be 'What would you do...?' If you had a Lister HRW 4 59 HP engine on your 70ft narrowboat and were cruising canals and rivers how would you go about it... considering the engine has a considerable excess of power, particularly for canal cruising? I'm going to be in this situation hopefully soon and any advice and tips from you seasoned boaters would be very much appreciated :-)
