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I've been investigating the conundrum of my auxiliary alternator warning light staying on, even though it is supplying 30A at 1000 revs (I'm assuming that this is acceptable from a 3 year old unit). I discovered that there is an (old?) cement resistor on each of the alternator warning lights, photo below. The one on the aux lamp is getting rather hot... Assuming that this is causing the issue, what can I replace it with? Been searching and don't seem able to find one with the same markings. Can I remove it altogether?? Next job is to trace why the oil & temp lights aren't working (lamps test good)...

Please go gently and explain like I'm 5, cos I'm new to this & have no idea. Also sorry it's a long post but I don't know what is relevant & what's not so am including everything. I'm boat sitting for a friend. He told me long before I moved in that the leisure batteries were starting to fail and not hold charge. I moved in 2 months ago and it has steadily got worse until now they are barely holding any charge. The battery display panel inside the boat, the owner tells me, gives different readings depending on whether the battery is currently charging or not. So if I look at it when the sun is out it reads over 13v but he says that's the voltage going into the battery from the solar, not the voltage of the battery itself. In the evenings (without running the engine) presumably it's not charging at all. But it always reads at least 12v without load. The problem is as soon as you use any electricity it starts to drop. You can see it ticking down and after a short time using anything it goes below 12.4 which I'm told is bad for it so at that point I turn everything off. There's only one solar panel currently & it won't be doing much in this weather so I wouldn't expect much charge. But the other night I ran the engine for an hour & had the inverter on (charging up a hoover & laptop) & soon after I stopped the engine the voltage started to drop visibly and I had to turn things off. A fellow boater had a look at the batteries for me with a multimeter. There are 4 batteries (cells?). At first he tested each one and got 7v. Then he said, "oops I did it wrong, they are wired in pairs". He tested again, but still got 7v. He told me I need to replace them as they are totally kaput. I'm confused on various counts: 1. How could they measure the same singly as in pairs? 2. If each one measured 7v singly, doesn't that mean they are doing really well? (Cos shouldn't they be 6v each to make 12 as a pair?) Which is contrary to my experience of how they are behaving. 3. If they measure 7v across each pair, then why am I getting a readout of over 12v (when not under load) on the display? I'm clearly not understanding something, can anyone shed some light on it? (Which is more than I've got on my boat at the moment 😔) Thank you!

What should a new boat DIYer read whilst working on their project?

Hi there new to the community so I hope it's alright to create a new thread. The narrowboat I'm currently looking to purchase is set up with an alternator, 3 new 12v batteries, no inverter, mains cabling throughout. There is also a generator on board. I'm sorry I can't provide specifics at this point, but even general advice much appreciated. If I continue with the purchase, I'm intending on putting on 4 Renogy 100 Watts 12v Monocrystalline Solar panels and doing my best to use the engine for power as minimally as possible (going into winter I realise that the solar is not going to give much power). The current owner will also be putting on a new 12v Fridge if I go ahead with the purchase. The appliances I intend on running would be a toaster, iron, TV, record player, iMac (I already own this and not looking to replace it), Laptop charger, Mobile charger. I'll be replacing all the current lighting with LED. There is currently a Washing Machine on board but the owner says its best to remove it as its on the mains (makes sense, although I would consider keeping it if anyone could provide a realistic solution). Stove and oven will be gas, have yet to decide on a water heating system. The current gas boiler is defunct. Currently considering a new gas boiler or a back boiler for the burner (no burner currently on board looking to purchase) to fuel hot water (taps, shower) and heating (there are radiators throughout but I'm not sure if they would be necessary once I purchase the burner - she's 63'. To be clear I will not be mooring up and 'plugging in', so everything needs to be off grid power. My knowledge is limited so being completely open, I apologise if my questions appear naive any support appreciated: Is it better to consider investing in a good inverter, or should I look at transformers on an appliance by appliance basis? If primary usage was 12v, would installing an inverter affect functionality or can you run both 230v and 12v with an inverter? I'm not particularly keen to keep the generator but would anyone advise that I do and why? Instead of an inverter or transformers would anyone's opinion be that I simply run the engine (with alternator) when using non-12v appliances, and why? I want to reduce emissions and costs from over using the engine unnecessarily wherever possible. Will the current 'all mains' wiring cause any problems with purchasing 12v appliances e.g. the fridge. If I wanted to consider keeping the washing machine what would you recommend having in place? Thank you for your advice.

We have a Beta 43 engine with twin alternators. The domestic 150A alternator charges four domestic AGM batteries which are now just over 2 years old. The boat and the alternator are nearly 9 years old. Normally the domestic alternator charges at a voltage ranging from 13.8 to 14.5 volts. On a recent trip it was charging at 14.8 to 15.2 volts. The batteries were not hot after several hours at this charging rate. I have no way of measuring the current at which it was charging. Should I be worried about this and what might be the reason? We have no separate regulator between the alternator and the batteries. We do have a solar panel (100W) charging the same four batteries through a regulator. The solar installation is also about 2 years old. Any ideas?

Hello, We have just put a deposit down on our first narrowboat and although its are very exciting, its a little daunting so we am looking for some advice. It currently has a Eberspacher hot air heater under the bed - does anyone know about these, is it worth keeping? This is what the surveyor said An Eberspacher D1L hot air heater was installed under the double berth in the forward cabin. There was a thermostat and control unit in the cabin. Ducting was no longer connected to vents and some joins in ducting had been made with duct tape. Recommendation Either decommission Eberspacher hot air heater or commission a qualified engineer to inspect the heater and its installation prior to its use. We are just wondering whether its worth keeping hold of and getting serviced or whether we should just get rid of it? Also any recommendations for an electrican and also a gas engineer in london would be very much appreciated. Thanks for your time. Emily & Juan

Hello all, Sorry for the long post and the rather basic questions, I am a genius with computers but a complete novice when it comes to boats. I have recently become the owner of another cabin cruiser after receiving a second chance offer on eBay and am after some advice/guidance on renovating her. This was the original advert: 20ft Cabin Cruiser Chenise is a great little family cruiser ideal for both river and sea, she has a forward cabin equipped with sink, work tops, bench seating with storage under, top hatch with integrated fan and two under counter cupboards. The V shaped hull is designed to form a bed with the appropriate cushions and boarding. A 12v inverter is fitted to power 240v equipment via the solar charged battery such as dvd player, radio etc. The rear deck has a full canopy witch has recently been re-proofed, the flooring is decking planks with an access panel to the electric bilge pump. Bench seating with loads of storage under including manual bilge pump. Water from the bilge and sink is ejected via built in ports. Steering wheel and remote controls for the main engine, cabin door with padlock clasp, window and port hole with removable panel. The decks have anti slip plates, bow rails, bow anchor roller, tie off points etc. 2x nav lights and 1x rod holder. Main Engine. Mercury 40hp (pull start) connected to remote steering and controls, last serviced November 2014. Great motor and moves her along on both river and sea. (see below) Auxiliary Motor. Mariner 2hp. Small unit but pushes her along to get you home if main engine should fail. Recent service with new impeller, oil etc. Chenise is a great boat and has given us some good family weekend fishing / cruising etc. She is currently moored at Heybridge Basin in Essex offering great cruising and fishing and access to the sea via the manned sea lock. It is possible to sail to Chelmsford stopping off at supermarkets and pubs on the way for great family days out. (Moorings available) Chenise was bought with the intention of a full refurbishment but enjoyed her so much we never got round to it and just enjoyed her “as is”. We have now purchased a larger boat hence this sale. Bad Bits. Used boat 2 weeks ago and all fine but now can’t start main engine, started to rub down cabin but never finished. Needs some TLC but will come good. Viewing welcomed and encouraged. Was purchased in this location so no trailer. If you buy to remove she will need to be sailed through sea lock to a slip way about 15 min sail at the cost of £30 to use slip way. (aux engine will get you there) Less than 10 feedback score please contact me before bidding! UK buyers only. You bid to buy, not view or haggle so please come and view if you have any concerns as this is now relisted and I really need the mooring for new boat Pictures can be viewed here: http://s287.photobucket.com/user/southeastbikers/library/Chenice?sort=3&page=1 The pictures are from two adverts, the original sale in August, which apparently fell through (and then the Mercury outboard unit stopped working) and how it looks now with the yellow/green interior, sink, and worktop units. She is cosmetically a tidy cabin cruiser but I need help with creating a 'plan' of things required to have her canal/seaworthy as I wish to take her from her current moorings out of the sealock and around to other rivers/routes (she is currently on a 13mile navigation that does not connect to anything else) So far I have secured the rights to her moorings and insured her with AIG (Insured her as a Microplus, although any confirmation would be great!), and thankfully at this stage she does not require a BSC due to being moored at the Basin, but obviously this would be necessary to take her on either the current navigation or any other inland waters. My first priority is to have the outboard repaired and hopefully have this running, having no experience of outboards and limited experiences of boats in general this will certainly be an adventure/challenge, I am currently attempting to contact the previous owner to obtain the 'auxilary engine' mentioned in the advert as this was not left on the boat, nor were any batteries or other marine items. My questions are: The boat apparently has 2 navigation lights but I have not seen a fuse panel like we have on our other boat, infact I am not sure how any of the electrical components are being powered so would like to fit a fuse panel, are these panels difficult to wire in yourself and do they need to meet any sort of requirements? What one would I require? According to the advert, there was a small auxilary engine (which we are still attempting to obtain), other boats we have seen have these mounted on a square block that protudes from one side of the transom, but our boat does not have this, is there a specialist mount we require to mount this next to the main engine? I aim to kit out the interior further, do I require a particular foam/wood for this purpose? I am not a fan of the padlock/clasp cabin lock, are there any issues with fitting a general yale-type door lock to cabin doors? I'm sure I will come across more on a closer inspection over the weekend, but all help for now is much appreciated!

Hi, the BSS says that cables between a battery and - another battery, or - an inverter over 1000W, or - a master switch, - etc, should be "sufficiently" big: "must be approximately 25mm2". To me, "approximately" means "as long as it's really safe". With two leisure batteries of 110Ah in parallel, is it safe to have a 16mm2 cable between them? I have seen 16mm2 cables on several of my friends boats. I am wondering whether I should propose to change their cables to 25mm2. Also, if a cable to the master switch is 16mm2 and has a 50A fuse, that should be safe and hence pass BSS, right? PS: Woops, I cannot change the title anymore, it should be "25mm2". Mistyped.

Hi all. I should begin by saying that I'm not the most talented when it comes to matters of electrickery, so please be gentle with me if I've overlooked something glaringly obvious! I'm hoping to be able to pick someone's brains about a problem with my inverter/charger. It's a Studer Compact C-1312, and I'm also connected to shore power. The other evening, the inverter suddenly went off - completely dead, no lights on the display panel, and won't come back on. I'm also not getting any 240v in the boat through the shore line, and neither are the batteries charging (apart from when I run the engine). The 12v still works fine (water pump, lights, fridge, freezer, 12v sockets etc), and I've checked that the shore power hasn't tripped. The shore lead is also fine, and there are no obvious loose wires anywhere that I can see. I've also got a Travel Pack, and I get 240 when I run that, but nothing otherwise. I've got a manual for the Studer, but the English isn't the best (especially for a numpty like me!). I'm hoping it's something simple (and cheap!) like a fuse blowing, but I can't see any fuse holder on the outside of the casing. I haven't yet removed the cover, but does anyone know if this inverter has a fuse inside? Or any other possible causes/solutions? Many thanks in advance

After 5.5 years it has come time to replace the batteries in our leisure bank. Because of miscellaneous access, placement and space factors ‘built into’ the boat by the original fit-out, our present leisure bank consists of two 170Ah and one 105Ah battery. They are all sealed wet batteries -- same type; same brand -- replaced new at the same time, but different sizes. I was going to simply replace all with the same again, thinking 5.5 years (CCing for most of that time; 200w solar topping up in season) doesn’t seem bad. BUT I have recently been advised that as the two 170Ah batteries will be ‘overworking’ or ‘pushing’ the single 105Ah battery, adding that single 105Ah battery wasn’t really adding much to the bank. At least not as much as I might think. I didn’t have a chance to clarify this at the time. Can anyone shed some light on mixing different sized batteries?

Hi there, I've got one of these (see pic below), but want to change it for something that can take more solar panels and is a bit more modern. We use it with a 60A alternator, and 1x 100w solar panel (although I think this regulator can only take up to 60w solar. We don't have a wind turbine. It only seems to produce a max of 14.1v when the engine's on (even after hours of cruising) and recently has been hitting 15.1v through the solar panel - which seems a bit high?! I'd like to replace it with a charger suitable for the alternator, and maybe solar as well. Do I need to get a separate charger for the alternator, then an MPPT charger for the solar panel (I also want to add either one or two 175w solar panel to make 275w or 375w in total). We have 3x 110ah leisure batteries and a starter battery, and a Sterling 1600W pure sine wave inverter that is yet to be hooked up.. Any advice, brands, models to watch out for etc, most welcome! Cheers, Alistair

Hi I noticed, when I took my boat out on t' cut this weekend, that my inverter beeped every now and then. It stopped too quickly for me to see what the issue was but I'm guessing it might be my 240v counter-top freezer. I'm assuming that when the freezer kicks in there is a surge of power being drawn. I've tried to find out what the wattage rating is for my freezer, but even the manufacturer's website doesn't reveal this. I've attached a photo of the label on the back of my freezer and I'm hoping that someone marvellous on this forum with better electrical knowledge than me could shed some light - what do you reckon? Cheers Adam

Hello, First post here so please be gentle! haha OK, I'm literally weeks away from getting my 60' sail away. I will be a continuous cruiser liveaboard and regularly moving around the canal and river waterways. Engine is a Canalline 42 with 1x 50A and 1x 175A Alternators. I'm planning on getting a Webasto water heater/boiler too to compliment multi fuel stove. I have done some sums and require around 120Ah a day for things like, 12v fridge, pumps, boiler, laptop, TV, lighting, phone charging etc. (Actual is 80Ah but I wanted a good amount of wiggle room). I'm planning on filling my roof with solar and would like to use Victron equipment (apart from solar). I'm planning on: 5x 285w Monocrystalline Solar Panels totalling: 1425w (It has an approx 42' cabin / roof space) 1x Victron SmartSolar 100A MPPT Solar Charge Controller 1x Victron BMV-700 Battery Monitor 1x Victron SmartSolar LCD display 1x Victron Multiplus 1600VA Inverter 70A charger 16A relay 12V I'd like to use solar as much as possible to power my needs but haven't decided upon batteries just yet. I'd like your comments on qty and type of batteries I'd need to keep everything tip-top, if I'll need a generator for the winter months (likely Honda EU2.0i using LPG). Is the above all too overkill or will I struggle in the depths of dark winter? I would like to use a washing machine every so often but if batteries would get hammered I can use Generator for that. (obviously not on hot washes). I'll be getting an electrician to do the install (apart from solar panels on the roof). Thanks Jono

We currently have four 6 volt leisure batteries and they seem to be in a bit of sorry state, with one of them bubbling acid and therefore potentially dangerous. Two of these batteries are Trojan T-105 and the other two appear to be cheaper unbranded alternatives. Due to other ongoing expenses on the boat we're looking to replace these with minimum cost and are thinking of putting in two 12v batteries instead. I'd be grateful for any advice on this and recommendations regarding specific batteries that would be suitable alternatives. As far as i understand the Trojan T-105 batteries have a very high 225ah capacity, giving us a total capacity of 450ah if replaced like for like, compared with probably about half that if replaced with two reasonable quality 12v alternatives, but I suspect we could probably get away with this. We've only been boating for a couple of months and it would be interesting to read the advice of others and to learn what set-ups they use themselves.

Before embarking on installation of my AC system, if anyone could share any information on the following I would appreciate it. According to the RCD (recreational craft directive) is the following AC system acceptable? (I shall start form shoreline connection to AC outlets) Shore line connection plug fed into an RCD (residual current device) within 0.5 meters form the plug, the RCD shall be housed in a waterproof box next to the plug (a garage box). This RCD shall feed into two single pole MCBs, one connected to the diesel immersion heater, and the other connected to the inverter. Out of the inverter I propose to feed another RCD, housed within the electrical cupboard which shall feed two other single pole MCBs, a 10A MCB for a ring circuit of ac sockets (12 sockets, which I know is a large amount for one ring, but with 2.5mm cable and a smaller MCB this will reduce loading the sockets with the full whack of the 3KW inverter), and the other 12A MCB for a washing machine. My main question is... Does the galvanic isolator need to be connected at both RCDS or would connecting it to the first RCD ground the inverter through the galvanic isolator? Or do both RCDs and Inverter require grounding through the galvanic isolator. I will also be connecting the inverter to the batteries but that shall be for another day. Thanks, Will

Hi all, So my solar cable got cut due to the way the cable was running through the bracket, I have gone to buy some solar connectors from maplins, can anyone confirm these are the right ones. The lady in the shop was surprisingly unhelpful... This is what I got : http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/maplin-cn40-a020-high-power-solar-connector-n55ln Is it as simple as just fitting this connector? or should I replace the whole cable Thanks for your help Martin

My Nespresso machine refuses to work when fed by my non-sinewave inverter or by my generator. Is there a smoothing gadget available that might improve the waveform of my A.C.? I don't want to spend hundreds!

Hello All, So having recently bought my first canal boat I am slowly adapting to canal life, and following lots of helpful advice from this forum I am having some new electrics installed (solar panels, inverter, batteries etc.) And taking some advice from other forum member I am now going to address my lighting and plug socket (more USB ports and LED lighting !!) So what I would like to know can anyone recommend some LED ceiling lights, are these straight forward to change from what I currently have, they look like a small flourecent tube. Is it just a case of changing the wires? Would I need to put a fuse in the cable line? Also what cables do people recommend for their 12v electrics and any tips on where to purchase these would be really apreciated. I would also like to install car lighter type plugs or usb plugs and wondered if anyone could recommend a good one of these and is it simple to just 'insert' these into an existing cable ring. Do I need to be careful how much I run off one ring, should I install a fuse as well? If so what type is good? Any advice greatly apreciated. Thanks for reading Martin

Hi all, For a while I've been toying with the idea of buying a narrowboat to continuously cruise along the London Canals, for a few weeks or so I've been doing a fair bit of research but for some areas I still haven't found the answers I'm looking for so thought I'd turn to you guys to see if you can help me out at all! Apologies in advance if some areas have been discussed already and also, if any of the questions sound silly... I really am a complete newbie to this... 1. As I mention - I'll be CC along the Canals in London, so have been researching what distance as I need to travel each week, obviously don't want to take the mick and want to stay on the right side of Canal and River Trust. However, their website isn't totally clear on how far - all I can see is that in a years licence, 15-20miles is expected, which seems more than fine. But how far is the minimum? Just for an example, say I started in Little Venice and was travelling East, how far would I need to travel to satisfy the Canal and River Trust for say one weekend I didn't want to travel 'that' far? 2. Which brings me on to my next point - as I read, each 14 days would be the time I top up water, which would top up my batteries (as I'm moving) and usually empty the loos out. May seem like a silly question but are these water points at regular intervals? Similarly, to electric points? (if I needed it half way) Also, are loo-emptying-places at regular intervals also? 3. Again, brings me on to my next point of water storage tanks and electricity batteries... my budget is around 25k and aiming for around a 40ft-er trad steel narrowboat so from what I've seen, many don't have a tank or seems quite small. If so, can this be retrofitted and to what cost? I understand becoming more frugal is all part and parcel of it (which I'm excited about) but for say a 10/15minute shower a day - what sort of tank should I be looking at to tide me over for two weeks? However, I guess this would hinge on question number two! In terms of electricity, I don't watch a lot of TV but would like to charge my phone, listen to music, have lights! Where should I even start with what to look for to tide me over 2 weeks again? 4. I guess this question is more to the nitty-gritty when I view but what are the main tips/points you'd recommend to look out for a bad conditioned narrowboat? Is there such a thing? Don't mind buying something that requires a bit of modernisation but in terms of 'behind the scene' stuff, what do I look for when looking at an engine? At the electric board? Heating system? Or should this all be taking care of at survey stage? Anyway, I think that's probably enough for now on my first post. I really would appreciate any tips/answers - no matter how big or small! Really excited to be buying - just need to get my head around it all first!! Speak soon, Nat

Hi All, I have a ford 1.8xld with Bosch alternator, also the boat has a smith industries tacho, which has never been connected. I have searched and found links from other sites, as I understand it the Tacho is wired to ground and to the 'W' terminal of the alternator. See pics. As you can see from the alternator picture, the 'W' terminal appears to be missing, I am assuming that I will have to connect my own terminal her, probably by soldering. Is this correct ? The second picture is from the back of the Tacho. Assuming this is the wiring diagram, single ind is a single alternator setup, dual ind, for a dual alternator setup. So if I am reading correctly, 'W' connector from alternator, to pin 1 of Tacho, pin 2 of Tacho to Ground. And now if I wanted to connect the second Alternator, then the same for pins 3 and 4 ? If any one can just confirm or deny, been a while ( 18 years ) since working on this type of equipment.

Hi there, I am in the process of buying a narrow boat, sail away hull. I have been trying to do many calculations to figure out all of the electrics in the boat. Please tell me if i have got any of the following wrong as im finding that i'm a little stuck. The residential mooring i am planning on using has a 16 amp pylon for a power supply. I have been looking at an Alde 3020 for the heating system attached to a 40l Calorifier for the hot water. The Alde system uses around 1000w which is around 4.3 amps, the Calorifier has a 1kw heating element in it so that's another 4.3 amps. Would you need to use the heating element or would the alde heat provide enough to heat the water on its own. I also have been looking at a standard fridge to cut down on the cost. These at their max they are 750w so that's another 3.3 amps. Then with a microwave oven using 1850w in use max so thats 8 amps. In total that's around 20 amps. That's not including all of the little things in the boat. The main thing i am asking is a) Has anyone got an alde and does it use less current than my calculations. 2) Would i have to use the heating element to heat the hot water up all the time or is the adle enough. 3) are the pylons at the CRT residential moorings defiantly 16amp Thankyou in advance. For extra information. I am getting a 50ft Sail-away to live in the centre of Birmingham

Hello! Having lived off grid for 3 years, using only the 12v system I find myself in a marina with the opportunity to connect to shoreline and I was wondering: 1. Can I use 12v devices whilst connected to the mains? 2. Does the mains hook up charge my batteries? Thanks in advance.... Diana

Hi all Looks needing to use power tools on the 2kw pure sine inverter. When running these large loads with high inductances how wise is it to push the inverter? Or should leave a good over head like push no more than 1.5kw? Thanks again James

My first post as a new member. All comments/help much appreciated. We've just bought our first narrowboat after many years as hirers. I'm now trying to get my head around what we've bought! I'm making progress but the electrics are leaving me stumped. The boat is well equipped with 12v, 240v, shore power, victron 1500w inverter/charger etc. and lots of wires! Can anyone suggest a good book to help me understand what it all is and how it all works?

hiya quick query!! our narrowboat started life as a holiday boat and so there is an absolute proliferation of unwanted 230v/115v shaver sockets!! these are big and heavy with internal transformers, currently unused but connected to our 230/240v system powered by our inverter. can these unwanted sockets be rewired into normal 240v plug sockets?? also, can someone enlighten me as to whether we (terrestrial, and riverine with inverters) use 240v or 230v?? i always thought it was the former, but someone told me this has changed to the latter?? am i being wound up?? is the earth not flat? SB