Jump to content

Onewheeler

Member
  • Posts

    869
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Onewheeler

  1. My water tank has just emptied into the bilge. The filter on the pump inlet somehow managed to undo itself. The two halves are secured by a sort of bayonet fitting without a final 'clicky bit' to stop it undoing without a push. B'stard.
  2. I'm still on the first canister for our compressed air horn after twenty years. It's loud enough to scare the missus at the other end of the boat and cost peanuts.
  3. Hard to keep everything together with only two hands! The vice only keeps it steady while you wield the spanners.
  4. Flomasta PTFE Liquid 50g (5321J) from Screwfix.
  5. They're not that tight. No problem with a vice and a couple of spanners. Use proper lpg gunge (sorry, can't think of the name!) to seal the joints.
  6. If the plumbing is as I imagine and the engine thermostat is knackered in the open position (or missing) the skin tank might be sufficient a short circuit across the calorifier coil to prevent an airlock clearing. Even so I'd be surprised if running the engine balls-out didn't generate enough head to blow it through. Martin/
  7. +1 for that. We have a 1 kW PSW / 2 kW peak which has run well and to spec for several years. Reasonable price and there's always something on special offer.
  8. Is that high level cutout permanent or does it reset like a normal 'stat when the temperature drops?
  9. As an alternative you might like to consider an external immersion heater, which connects between the cold feed and top outlet of your calorifier (as close to the tank as possible), fitted with a 1 kW or whatever element. Google "Willis heater" (pronounced Will-iss). It would save having to extract the blanking plug. Martin/
  10. You may find (almost certainly will) that the blanking plug is scaled in and an utter bastard to remove. A blowlamp helps.
  11. I've not looked at a Beta starter closely (and won't be able to look at mine until Sunday) but it might be the contacts in the starter solenoid that have corroded. On my old BMC engine that was easy to remove and test off the engine. It's the bit to which the big and small + cables are connected. The bolts should be accessible.
  12. Report to Action Fraud and sit back to enjoy the entertainment?
  13. No, it's a generic one from Ebay. Does the job though. I'm hesitant about a thermistor, probably OK but they get hot. I've designed a circuit but have more interesting or urgent things (depending on whether I'm listening to me or her indoors) that get in the way of building it.
  14. What I was thinking but not familiar with the Victron device. Our isolation transformer trips the shore MCB about one in four times on connection, depending on at what part of the AC cycle connection is made. Would put in a surge limiter but it's less hassle to go and reset the MCB.
  15. I was just about to post that! Maybe common sense will prevail, or not.
  16. Get yourself a meter from the current century! It may be that the unusual arrangement of a bakelite shaft is to protect fingers from exposure to high voltages were a metal shaft to penetrate to close to the surface. Check first!
  17. The knob looks like a bog standard old fashioned radio control, with an integral shaft. The shaft looks like the same as used on a standard potentiometer. Knobs with grub screw available on Ebay e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-VINTAGE-BAKELITE-VALVE-RADIO-KNOBS-BRASS-INSERTS-GRUB-SCREW-FIXING-35MM-DIA/113603357901 Search "knob vintage radio" and cut the shaft off a pot?.
  18. G'day! Plenty of furriners on the Dutch Barge Assn. forum at barges.org (I think you have to be a member but it's very useful and not just for big boats) We keep a shared boat on the mainland (currently in Gent). We usually find a marina which is cheap for the winter months and much more secure than an unattended online mooring. We winterise her ourselves (an easy job if the boat is designed properly), keep the batteries topped up with a solar panel. Canal levels don't usually fluctuate much, but there's always someone around to slacken lines if necessary. If on a river you must make sure that you have a floating pontoon or adequately long mooring poles. For our share boat, we book our winter mooring about six months in advance. It may not be necessary to go so far out in the UK unless you are looking in a popular area. Martin/
  19. Phurnacite is the best we can buy readily. Agree with other comments re Taybrite, but don't think it used to be so bad. Picked up a few sacks of Homefire Olive, made from olive trees ( or stones?) recently. Smells lovely but burns very quickly and leaves a lot of ash. It seems to have been discontinued, maybe that's why it was cheap.
  20. Think I used https://www.fluesystems.com/ a couple of years ago, probably because they were cheap or had what I wanted in stock. No complaints.
  21. I like the flashing lights. They help me find the toilet in the middle of the night.
  22. Should be OK. On our boat share we have a 1 kW PSW (2 kW peak) invertor which runs fridge and odds and ends for charging. The fridge is A+ and even in hot French weather only draws 14 W average, 65 W peak. Our invertor was from Sunshine Solar <https://www.sunshinesolar.co.uk/prodshow/1000W___24V_Pure_Sine_Wave_Sunshine_Power_Inverter/VP100024.html>
  23. I fitted a plastic pudding basin to the roof of our mainland boat share with silicone sealant in 2014 as a temporary fix for a broken ventilator. It's still going strong. (The condensation in the photo isn't really a problem, it was about 0 C outside at the time and the heating had just gone on).
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.