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WotEver

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Everything posted by WotEver

  1. WotEver
    How close can you get to it by car (and park)?
  2. WotEver
    Sea Dog addressed that in #12. One of your bottles runs out. You now have x weeks to replace it. If you can’t find a supplier on the correct side in that time then you probably ain’t cruising very much.
  3. WotEver
    Which, at the end of the day, might actually be simpler I guess.
  4. WotEver
    Why couldn’t the doors just be an inch short, effecting the vent that way? Someone else suggested this earlier.
  5. WotEver
    I guess you could but I wonder if the back of the casing is strong enough to take the nut? It could be quite a thin casting at that point. The net result isn’t much different to Sam’s suggestion I suppose, although yours wouldn’t leave a hole for muck to ingress onto the flywheel, IF the casting is sufficiently strong.
  6. WotEver
    You’d fish out the remainder of the bolt once the starter motor was off but as you point out, how would you fit a new bolt? Sam’s suggestion appears to me to be your only way forward.
  7. WotEver
    In that case I think Sam’s idea of cutting a hole in the back of the casing is your only sensible way forward. You could fit a small aluminium plate over it afterwards if you wanted to keep the muck out, but that wouldn’t be essential.
  8. WotEver
    If you grip the head with a pair of mole grips (if there’s enough metal left to do so) and pull hard while turning, does anything happen?
  9. WotEver
    See David’s post. He explains it better than I did. I have no idea about your insurance policy but if you don’t feel confident to change the thermocouple then don’t. Or indeed 907 screws into 891, which is the grill control valve.
  10. WotEver
    A thermocouple has the end that pokes into the flame, and a ‘tube’ running from the back of it. At the end of the tube is a fattened out bit with a captive nut. This end connects to the valve. If wiggling it makes it work then either the nut is loose or there’s a break within the tube bit. If it’s loose, tighten it. If the fault is internal, replace it So in your diagram 908 screws into 912. If that nut is loose (unlikely) then tighten it. If the other end isn’t in the flame then move it. If wiggling it has any effect whatsoever then replace it.
  11. WotEver
    You’ll just be pushing it more into the flame.
  12. WotEver
    You’ll need to PM David with your email address.
  13. WotEver
    A thermocouple is usually dead easy to replace. A nut at the far end connects it to the valve and that’s it.
  14. WotEver
    The gas pipe connects (via the control valve) to the jet. The burner sits on top of the jet. The gas comes out of the jet then through the holes in the burner.
  15. WotEver
    Vactan.
  16. WotEver
    Lovely
  17. WotEver
    2.5mm over 5m @ 30A will only drop a volt. Your problem is connections along the way. Check each glow plug too - they should each have a cold resistance of 0.55 ohms. If you find one that’s infinite then it’s burned out.
  18. WotEver
    I’d also try replacing the black relay. They only cost a couple of quid and the contacts don’t last forever.
  19. WotEver
    Yes and no. I maintain that two mains earth bonds to the hull will have zero detrimental effect.
  20. WotEver
    I hated that bloody fox.
  21. WotEver
    Mind the what? OW!!!
  22. WotEver
    Correct. So without an earth bond an IT short could have the hull sitting at 230V. Hence I disagree with the RCD’s statement that the bond ‘need not’ be present.
  23. WotEver
    Yes. It proves that it’s not bonded
  24. WotEver
    Yes it should, in my opinion. The RCD reg quoted states ‘need not’ it doesn’t say ‘should not’. I can see their logic but they’re relying on another safety device to protect the public. If the IT developed an internal short, or the RCD likewise then without the bond you have the potential to have the hull sitting at mains voltage. A vanishingly unlikely scenario but why leave it as a possibility? Simply insist that the Earth bond should always be there.
  25. WotEver
    Use a resistance range instead of the beeper. Anything more than 0.01 ohms isn’t a decent bond. Don’t worry about parallel paths. You’re talking AC Earth purely for bonding. It will never have any current flowing unless there is a fault, in which case you’d be fixing the fault anyhow.
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