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I've had a look around for a parts manual to ascertain why this pulley set-up appears non standard, (displaced starting chainwheel etc) but no freebies on the web!

Which model of Lister is the engine? Obviously non standard as the bottom starting chain sprocket has been displaced by the additional belt pulleys.

Some internet research. https://chemistry.blogs.pressdemocrat.com/109/cars-battery-can-deadly/ "Over-charging a lead acid battery can produce hydrogen sulfide. The gas is colorless, very poisonous, flammable and has the odor of rotten eggs."

Looking at the arrow again it appears to be leaking from the timing case gasket,image from LR with similar case

When we were moored at Compton the boat next to us was on continual landline charging due to dodgy batteries and it was just being used as a lodging by a young bloke. Ambulance arrived one morning along with Fire brigade as the occupant had been overcome by battery fumes.

Very sound advice. With both ends of the pipe free with the nuts pulled back both ends should align perfectly with their respective nipples, if the pipe alignment is OK tighten both ends to 'finger tight' prior to final tightening. Edit: Looking at the enlarged image of the pipe end seating it may already be a new pipe job.

I note that in the image the pipes do not align with the injectors very well, were the fuel pump ends tight at the time?

The name 'Gilkes' suggests it was possibly once part of a water turbine set up.

Just in case it helps.

Looking the image with the yellow arrow I was thinking about the camshaft gear case or gasket.

Suggest you try two bowls or suitable oven pans under the engine , one under the fan casing area and the other under the camshaft gear case. This should indicate which end the problem is?

Remove timing gear cover and undo the 4 bolts.

I think the copper rings should be sealed with blue Hylomar.

It is not good practice to shut an engine down immediately after a period of 'loaded running', the last thing an engine needs is a good revving prior to the immediate shutting off of the cooling system.

From memory, it is impossible to hold any pressure in the system if the filter is the type with the banjo bolt with a restrictor orifice as any pressure leaks back to the fuel tank? https://ads-crete.com/shop/product/filter-calib-union-ref-7111-135a/ IIRC, this is the type banjo bolt fitted to CAV filters, a problem if blocked with a VERY small air leak elsewhere. If this orifice is blocked any air in the system cannot leak off back to the tank and results in a fair bit of cranking to drive it out via the injectors. Edit: When we had a shared ownership boat in the early 90s it was standard practice to operate the lift pump prior to a first start after the boat had been left standing for any time.

Sounds like you have air leaking into the fuel system overnight hence the progressive nature of the 'white smoke' as cranking continues. If you have a CAV diesel filter with a piped up banjo bolt fitting on top, (next to the central smaller securing bolt) check the very small restrictor hole in the banjo fitting securing bolt Edit: Should you have the banjo fitting on the top of the filter I would suggest taking the bolt out prior to a 'first start' and operating the fuel lift pump lever to check for air in filter, you may have to turn the engine a little if the lift pump is on the camshaft lobe. Easier method would be to remove the bolt and just crank the engine as normal, fuel should flow out immediately with no air present.

Agree, there are many problems associated with low load/extended idling etc.

Thanks for clarifying pipe 31. When we were more active we just changed the oil twice a year based very roughly on logged travel times. As we've now matured into retired fine weather boaters we generally do it annually. We do our own oil/filter changes so costs are insignificant when compared to other outgoings. Original question was just out of the box thinking.

Whilst doing some lateral thinking it struck me that our VW car oil change service warning pops up at a time dictated by the ECU, this warning is not at set miles but a combination of other factors, how hard/long the engine has been loaded being one factor,. Modern car oil in use Considering that our Lister HA2 (industrial) oil change hours are based on continuous full load running could the hours be extended for narrowboat use at considerably less demanding power outputs. API-CC oil in use?

Thanks. Where does pipe 31 discharge any overflow, does it act as a strainer bypass back to the engine sump?

Is the pipe (31) the return from the scavenge pump?

My logic only applies to to the 'strainer' position'. Were particulate filters ever fitted between the scavenge pump and the oil tank 'back in the day'

If it was a dry (or wet) sump the strainer is to protect the oil pump and should be fitted prior to the scavenge pump suction.

I probably think and worry too much. Will probably fit a repeater gauge on the pigeon box as the engine room is visited infrequently on long river runs. Thinking about the way construction site pumps are used and abused sometimes on a 24/7 basis I definitely worry too much!

I'd be a bit worried about it clogging up due to its finer filtering capabilities as the original strainer was sized only to protect the oil pump with a minimum restriction on the pump suction. External paper element filters normally work on the pressure side of the oil pump usually combined a spring loaded bypass valve to prevent oil pressure loss in event of a blockage.