Mike the Boilerman

Oops, forgot the smilie!!

Ah yes, I made an assumption. From your dogged determination to ignore the simple solution staring you in the face and do things the hard way, I assumed you were a bloke. An easy mistake to make. And you would not be the first bloke on here claiming to be female, if it turns out I'm right.

They would do fine too, if a nice high power one is selected. The OP however, wants to "think outside the box", meaning he rejects all the obvious, practical and efficient methods in favour of difficult, awkward and less effective ways.

Terrified if I use clay bar on my bote it will turn mine into a Jagular too......

The main advantage of this is it would make a truly first class fast breeding ground for legionella.

Get one made then to whatever size and format you want it to be then. Won’t cost much more than an off-the-shelf one. Domestic unvented cylinders start at about 80 litres. Think out of the box!!

Given diesel cars go further on a litre of diesel than the equivalent petrol car on a litre of petrol, diesel appears to contain more energy than petrol.

Well the obvious solution is to fit a big standard MEGAflo. (Google it) heated by whatever method you currently heat your calorifier. These are household mains pressure hot water cylinders, topographically identical to a calorifier but big enough to fill a bath.

Old twin electrode rectification did rely on the differing surface areas but these were, i understand, prone to false positive results if debris was present so the changed to a different type of FD not relying on rectification, which doesnt do this and which i don't understand yet. It usually uses a separate electrode from the sparker for detection, hence the three electodes on this boiler.

Well given the video shows smooth and solid combustion when the red light comes ON and the gas is turned OFF, I'd say this is actually flame detection failure. I've never encountered until now a boiler that needs electrodes replacing as periodic maintenance, but given the manual demands it, I'd say do it. Then when it still doesn't work, replace the PCB. Check condition of the leads, connections etc first though. I note the PCB notices the flame presence and stops the spark, but also turns off the gas and the red light ON ten seconds after ignition. A suspiciously round figure often used as a threshold period for flame detection. House? Is this installed in a house? Is it running on Natural Gas? Doesn't look like it to me!

Your comment about the spectacular and ever-popular western end of the K&A reminds be of the bloke waiting to get served at the bar in a crowded pub. He turned to his mate and said "Great place this. If only it wasn't so crowded they could sell more beer and make more money".

Well that's what she was claiming....

There's you answer then, just turn the inverter on!! Computer wizz mate of mine was in his home office late one night in winter with his son, who said in all seriousness "Dad its getting cold in here. Shall I turn another computer on?"

Yes funny how she denied any intention of drinking it, but seemed very attached to it!!

I'd say that was an overheat error but it happens rather too quickly I suspect. What does the manual say is the meaning of that red light that comes on as the flames extinguish?

Lebanon?

Just been invited tonight at 23.03 to sling our hooks by the Australian children behind the bar in the pub here. After briefly describing the rules to them as were in force in 1976 they seemed unconvinced and insisted we left, saying they were no longer paid after 11pm. What ARE the 'calling time' and 'drinking up time' rules these days???

As other keep saying, this reading is irrelevant. What is the voltage AT THE GLOW PLUG TERMINAL for the n'th time, DURING THE START-UP CYCLE?

"Anode Myths part1." I skimmed your post thanks, but didn't see any myths dealt with. But then I've bin in ze pub.....

No. Forget it, for the reasons previously explained Get a mooring with a 240v shoreline and use a domestic heater. Presumably as you ask for a timer you want it to operate while you arte not there?

No, it looks like this and goes in the fuel line to the unit: But I see there are now two threads running on air heaters that won't start. Maybe I'm confusing the two threads.

You must have one! Its the fuel pump that goes "click click click" while it is failing to start. You must have one because you are seeing fuel mist from the exhaust.

No. Hope that helps....