Bimbly1

Yes but I have found that you gets what you pays for.

No, black. Have let the cells equalise over the past 48 hours. Measured the SGs today and they vary from 1.225 (3 month old battery) to 1.270 (10 month old battery). Will switch the charger back on tomorrow and see what happens. Am out for six weeks from Monday, :D so will see how they perform when charged from the alternator.

I have had the dry battery replaced under warranty. This is the third battery to be replaced. All seems well until one dries up, usually within about six months of installation. Am monitoring each one monthly and recording the results. I agree, it must be something simple/obvious. Have checked all batteries SG & voltage, alternator and charger outputs and for leakage from the bank. Nothing untoward to report. I always switch everything off at the breaker switch panel, except for the bilge pump. Have checked that too. There does not appear to be any drain on the bank. I use the bank for lights, fridge & freezer, water pump and Techma toilet. Heavy drain items such as Domestic Line Manager's hair dryer and microwave are only used via the generator. Have done a full energy audit with a qualified electrician and found no evidence of anything wrong. It is strange that this should have happened when I substituted the110Ah for 135Ah batts which had worked without a problem for 4 years. Perhaps I should go back to 110s. When I scratch my head, all I get now is splinters.

Everything was fine until I changed the 4x110Ah batts for 4x135Ah batts, using a 30Amp Sterling charger and a 110 Amp alternator. Positive and negatives cables lead in from opposite ends of the bank. Everything was fine until I changed the 4x110Ah batts for 4x135Ah batts, using a 30Amp Sterling charger and a 110 Amp alternator. Positive and negatives cables lead in from opposite ends of the bank. Sorry, I seem to have hijacked the OP's post.

Have used that program for years. Left boat with batts at 12.7v, connected landline but forgot to turn charger on, returned the following day and found batts reading 10.5v. Removed batts and found one was dry. What caused that? I wish someone could tell me.

I took four 135Ah batts home. Used a 20amp charger and each one took over twelve hours to charge to 13v from about 10v. Have been experiencing problems with the bank for some time, since having them all new in Apr 10, replaced one under warranty in Oct 10, another in May 11 and most recently, a third in July 11. The SG varies considerably from cell to cell in the newest battery; e.g. from 1.300 to 1.275. Cells in the other batteries vary from 1.275 to 1.225. However, after all that, they seem to be ok, holding a charge of 13v 24 hours after coming off the onboard charger, with all appliances isolated. I shall continue to monitor them each month with a hydrometer and voltmeter. Sounds as though yours are ok but suggest that it is worth your while investing in similar kit and keeping and eye on them. HTH

Perhaps not hirers, but we were all novices once. And can still make mistakes, especially if there is an audience! Didn't know that we'd met.

Have seen loads of Buzzards and Red Kites over the past year or two, throughout the midlands and wales. Very few Kingfishers this year, may have been the severe winter.

Have had S type from Worcester Marine Windows for over 5 years with no problems other than replacing the adhesive foam strip they close against on two 3' windows. The external drain covers can come off. I phoned WMW and they sent me some foc in the post. Replacement self adhesive stripping from them didn't break the bank. I also have a set of blank inserts and a fly screen. The glazing is reasonably easy to remove and sits safely against the side of the boat, extending under the gunnel, so it doesn't fall over but could be prone to being knocked. On a hot day, removing a few windows makes all the difference to our comfort!

I witnessed a road crash involving a cyclist and a van early one morning. Having examined the casualty, I called for an ambulance and as an afterthought, asked the control room to notify plod too. When the services arrived, I handed the casualty over to the paramedics and was then asked by a policewoman if I would give a statement. Agreeing to this, I was ushered into the rear seat of a police car....... where I was left alone for half an hour! It was only after I had given the statement that it was suggested that the term "plod" was not much appreciated. Until then, the penny hadn't dropped!

The pub canal-side at Barlaston may be agreeable but I don't know how safe it is. You could ask the museum if you can use a space. If not, they may know somewhere locally. Or try Black Prince at Festival Park. The worst they can say is no!

Always good to remember that there is often more than one solution to a particular problem. Consider this, twenty years experience may simply mean one years experience, twenty times!

Always had prompt, friendly service from them and if it was only a small stitching job, they didn't charge. Very sorry they've gone.

I find either white spirit or cellulose thinners will work on most things. Beware of the fumes though!

Any idea if this would be ok for a Barrus Shire 45, 2006 spec? Barrus recommend a 15w40 API CD.

Have a look at the water inlet valve at the back of the installation. If no joy, try here. You should be able to find a manual for the models you have. If not, PM me an I will email the copy I have for mine, (which, sods law being what it is, may not be the model you have). Edited to answer the perishing question.

I try not to shout but speak to the other party, take a note of the number and name of the other boat, plus hire company phone number. If I think that damage may have been caused, I inform the hire company, make a note of the conversation, confirm in an email if possible and get on with my day. Most people are very apologetic, a very few are not. Sometimes I wish I had a Tazer

Think carefully about what you said in your last post. If the engine cut out because the fuel level dropped below the level of the fuel line, the height of the fuel line in the tank is irrelevant. The engine stopped because it was starved of fuel. It did not use 40 or more litres in the last few moments it was running. Adding 40 litres of fuel will have raised the tank level significantly more than necessary to immerse the fuel line. Keep on bleeding or consider blasting some air through the line into the tank if you think that there may be an obstruction. Good luck. Edited to correct spelling.

Too many differentials to give you an accurate figure. Do make sure that you have a clean stick, cane or broom handle with which to dip the tank periodically to see what the level is. Allow for the fuel line being a couple of inches off the bottom though! Enjoy your travels.

I don't like fish.

Can't help on the technical side but you may find some affordable ones here.

Having done a couple with my wife, I can heartily recommend them as a means of learning not only what to so but why and when. Willow Wren are good and so is Bob Strachan at Alvechurch.

If you get as far as the Birmingham Fazeley, try Alton Towers and Kingsford Water Park. On top of that, there is a shedload of stuff in & around Brum, e.g. Cadbury World, Think Tank and plenty of walks from the Oxford. Generally, we find that if small people help with the locks, holding the boat on a rope and a (well supervised) bit of helming, they are too tired to be bored. Tasking them to take the photos also helps to engage them, especially when the results can be viewed later on the old laptop. Have a good trip, Bob.

When it happens on mine, I vacuum & mop and then pour freshly boiled water with a drop of washing up liquid over the engine &/or affected area, followed by more freshly boiled water and then vacuum & mop all that up and leave the deck boards up to ventilate for a while. SWMBO then has a sniff & (usually) declares it to be a no whiff zone again.

I can't find Flint Grit No 5 ontintanet, other than as chicken feed. I think that these are the alternative contact details for the people you want. I use aquarium washed sand which, whilst not so coarse is sufficiently anti-slip and can be mopped over without eating the mop head.