Rincewind

Does anyone really know what you are drinking? You may be interested to know that on the outskirts of Warrington there are several boreholes that are used to extract drinking water from aquifer's. At one of these boreholes arsenic leaches into the water through the bedrock. United Utilities were required to build an Adsorption plant to remove some of the arsenic before the water was fed into the mains. (Adsorption, simply put, = Very large filter!) Take note that I said some of the arsenic! At this particular site around 80% of the water was treated while the other 20% bypassed the adsorption process and was remixed before being fed into the mains! UU was not allowed to remove all of the contaminant - by law! (even though it was possible to do so). The percentage of removal / treatment depended of course on whatever the concentration of contaminant was in the water being pumped up and this was closely and continuously monitored. i.e., Adsorption percentage being treated was 'site specific'. This is not 'hearsay' by the way - I was tasked with writing the Company Standard / maintenance manual for this (and similar) Adsorption processes on behalf of UU. Apparently, a little bit of arsenic does you good! Personally, I prefer a large glass of malt whiskey!

You could remove the fitting from the prop shaft stuffing box and fit one of these grease nipples, the nipple threads come in different sizes so take the stuffing box fitting with you when you buy one (or carefully measure the outside diameter of the thread), but you would need a suitable grease gun. I echo what agg221 suggests, its not a big deal if you are not going far.

The 'olive' can be fitted either way round, check that there is a 'shoulder' on one end of the nut that the 'olive' cannot pass through. The plastic / nylon pipe may have distorted or hardened (due to age or overtightening). If there is enough slack in the pipe, try cutting approx. 15mm off the end with a sharp knife and then reassemble. If you cannot push the 'olive' onto the 'new' section of pipe, the olive will be distorted and you will need a new one. It should be a close but sliding fit, ensure the pipe buts up fully inside the brass fitting. Do not overtighten. Just "nip" it enough that you cannot pull the tube out by hand. If that fails, follow Alans advice and buy a new section of pipe and new olives.

Paul beat me to it! You need a longer rope! from the boat, up and round a bollard then back down to the steerer taking in the slack as it rises!

Unbelievable! I posted that tongue in cheek. Your mooring people don't miss a trick do they? When the calendar was altered by one of the Roman Emperors the plebs rioted because they thought they were losing part of their life, I think you should do the same!

Did you pay for the extra day in February?

Many people use Floor Paint - with or without the sand / granules, and it comes in Red!

Bring back Window Tax, that's what I say! And a Porthole Tax, And a Houdini Tax an all - Posh Buggers!

Ok, Guilty as charged mi Lud! But you get the jist.... BTW, I have had a BSC where the examiner has submitted the pass report but it was not updated on CRT's website, I had to update it myself when my auto renew application was subsequently rejected by the system. The point is, as MtB has confirmed, CRT are capable of checking credentials are in order - if they so wish.

It would not cost a penny more. Boaters that buy a normal license have to prove that they have insurance, a home mooring and a BS certificate otherwise they do not get issued with a license. Its the applicant that has to prove they have the documents in question, CRT do not do the legwork work for you! The bridge hoppers are just avoiding paying mooring fees and tax dodging, as we are all well aware. Just a few weeks ago there was a You-tube feature (was it on here?) where one woman was showing off her new build fatty (boat, not body ) and explaining (complaining) how she was forced to move every so often to comply with the CC license conditions. - Plenty of money to commission a new build and have it fitted out to her luxury spec but no intent whatsoever to financially support the canal infrastructure by paying for a mooring.

Agreed. If you want to live in a society and benefit from that society then surely it is only right for you to make a financial contribution to the upkeep of that society for the good of everyone including yourself. Even CC'rs, no matter where in the country they roam, directly benefit from the taxes most of us pay to local councils, Cost of policing, Fire & Rescue, road upkeep, rubbish removal, street lighting etc. etc. the list goes on.... When you apply for a CC license are you not declaring to the world that you no longer wish to pay your fair contribution of taxes? Perhaps its about time CRT only granted CC licenses when the applicant provides proof (receipt) that a local council tax, or substantial cash contribution, has been paid for that financial year to a Local Authority (of the applicants choice). There would be plenty of empty visitor moorings available then!

Depending on what you are attempting to do here I may have a solution. Question... are you wishing to repair / restore the revcounter back to its former glory? i.e. as per original spec? Or... do you simply want a revcounter that works electronically and is constantly accurate, i.e. not connected to the alternator in any shape or form as Quattrodave has suggested? If its the former then without physically examining the equipment you have, I may not be of much help, but if its the latter and you want a project to pursue, then I can point you in the right direction as some years ago I made, using a variable reluctance sensor (VRS), my own digital revcounter that is accurate to approx. 1 or 2 RPM at high engine speeds. (This accuracy was sufficient for my purposes, although you could make it even more accurate if you have the will to do so). As you already know, the variable reluctance sensor that you seem to have will output a sine wave signal (if it is working). Assuming that the signal is to be read by a microprocessor, that will most likely be housed inside the tacho instrument, the sine wave will have to be converted to a square wave prior to being fed into the microprocessor. When counting pulses, microprocessor's do not like sine wave signals and work best with crisp low to high square wave voltage signals. The point to note here is that, from the reluctor sensor to the tacho instrument, the cable you use should be of the shielded type with the braid grounded in order to prevent electromagnetic interference from other electrical equipment, e.g. alternators, corrupting the signal. - This can be important! (Less so important with Hall effect sensors as they are less susceptible to electromagnetic interference ). Hall effect speed sensors are also fitted with permanent magnets so "testing" the sensor by seeing if it is attracted to ferrous metals is not conclusive evidence of which type of sensor you are dealing with, however the number of electrical connections is a pretty good indicator. If it helps, I just measured the resistance of a spare reluctance sensor I have at home and it measures 777 ohms but do not read much into this as the resistance can vary widely from manufacturer to manufacturer. Also, be aware that the output voltage of a VRS can vary from as little as 8 volts to over a hundred volts depending on speed / make of sensor. e.g. The reluctor on my engine (over the flywheel teeth) at 642 RPM and producing1038 Hz, gave an output voltage of 152 volts - (both figures recorded on an oscilloscope). And that was at tick-over speed! Hall effect sensors normally output a voltage close to the supply voltage. i.e. If the input voltage = 5 volts then output voltage = 4.5 volts or thereabouts.

I love it! Its even got Solar Power! Brilliant, The owner / builder of that boat and I must share the same sense of fun. It gives a whole new meaning to the phrase "about to descend the lock"!!!

Not a heavy cast iron one but we like it, comes in different sizes and colours. If you are tempted, buy the silicone grips that are made for and fit over the handles so that you don't burn your fingers. https://www.marksandspencer.com/cast-aluminium-4-5l-casserole-dish/p/hbp60268399?color=CHARCOAL#intid=pid_pg1pip48g4r1c2|prodflag_submsg-Induction compatible

From the Apple app store I have Neverspoons - self descriptive , and Caskfinder Unlike Pearley I found it very good, listed all my local watering holes with a full list of beers