RLWP

They are doing different things, they are essentially the same though - a lump of air in a rubber bag inside a metal cylinder Richard

And of course it does. You can measure the height of the real above water bit and scale the under water bit off the photo Richard

Wot he said!

Be very careful when you try to start it, take the injectors out and pull it over by hand first. You are checking to see if the rings have rusted into the bores (in which case it won't turn), if there is water in the cylinders (which will come out of the injector holes) and that it will turn several complete revolutions by hand Weak link in this engine is the hydraulic tappets, when they fail they tend to fail 'long'. This leads to the valves hitting the pistons, then bent pushrods and broken rockers. Sometimes blown head gaskets. If a tappet is stuck 'long', the engine won't pull over TDC on that cylinder Richard

Welcome to the forum It depends which gearbox you have Richard

Before you do, check where the leak is coming from. If the injector cap is loose it's OK to tighten it up. The other likely source is the spill rail where it is screwed onto the injector. Richard

That's more or less the figure the bloke from the council suggested around 5PM. About 400 families Richard

Yes, I remember - should you need one

Pretty similar to the diesel shop we use Richard

Definitely not! The solid copper was left, the flex was removed Richard

It will depend on the inspector. The only time I have done this, removing the gas bottle, regulator, hose, cooker and cooker hose was sufficient Richard

Here is something similar on a submarine: I'm amused by the writing on the jacket Richard

Cool - a patio!

Follow the cable that comes from the speed control lever (the other cable goes to the gearbox) This cable will link to a lever on the engine. First thing is see if you can find the stop for the lever - does the lever go back against the stop at idle? If not, you need to adjust the cable If it does, it's the stop that needs adjusting Don't be surprised if the engine starts performing like a bag of spanners - these engines are not great at low idle speeds Richard

Excellent - I didn't know that. Next time I'm looking for a camshaft I'll bear you in mind Richard

Ahhh, but what does he enjoy - boating or boat building?

It has to be from the generator end. That diagram shows the flywheel housing that is bolted to the block by screws behind the flywheel What can you see through the air inlet holes for the generator? Richard

Yes. The flywheel sits between the generator and the engine Richard

Have you seen this?: https://www.northernlightsgeneratorparts.com/documents/northern-lights/parts-catalogs/p753k-i.pdf Richard

Will it fit on your drive?

I suspect we are both misunderstanding while both trying to be humorous I was taken with the idea of someone trying to fill something up to a level above the filling point - that was all. Maybe with a syringe to extract the air above the filler while squirting new oil in? Yes, I get your point. To be honest, if I find a pump like that on a customers engine I always recommend getting it rebuilt. There must be significant wear in the elements, and I get suspicious about elements getting loose and wearing out the pump body (= scrap). Plus the usual bearing and camshaft wear. Oh, and the mess Richard

The dipstick hole has a - er - dipstick in it, with marks to show the level The level is significantly lower than the dipstick hole And if you can fill it to higher than the dipstick hole, I'm impressed! Richard

How could it be?