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Timleech

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Everything posted by Timleech

  1. I did an oil change on an HA2 a couple of months ago. Emptied sump and gearbox with Pela extractor and the original sump pump. Filled up with 2 x 5l bottles of Morris oil, after running for a bit to refill gearbox and filter it was dead on the full mark. Of course, you will need more oil for topping up. Tim
  2. I was about to say that he already has a BW licence, it's a Bridgewater licence that he wants.. Please, please, don't use BW as an abbreviation for Bridgewater! Tim
  3. The question, I believe, is whether the components were adequate in the first place, whether they have been upgraded, and have they been properly tested in service. Tim
  4. Probably because it was not a pleasure boat. Tim
  5. If I told you I would have to kill you. From my understanding, 'serious structural failure' would be a gross exaggeration, but it's a safety issue which could have been serious. Why they keep their cards so close to their chests on things like this, I have no idea. It's open now, anyway, although some would maintain that the safety issue has not properly been resolved. Tim
  6. I reckon SAE 30 is not so good in an H series engine, if you can't find a suitable sae20 then go for the Morris Golden Film CC multigrade. Midland Swindlers keep it. Not cheap, though. Tim
  7. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  8. I'm willing to bet that they never really disclose what the problem was.
  9. If someone has the proper skills, or reckons they can learn them, I've got a set of plans (line plans, not construction drawings) for a tug of similar style to the one against the bank. Also a couple of books on 'lofting', though I believe there may be software available now to do the job. Also a 12 bhp Sabb SEMI-diesel engine, arranged for a variable pitch prop, and a couple of different Sabb props, no idea whether either of them is anywhere near right for the engine.Could always be fitted with a gearbox, of course. I had ideas of building this up in my dotage, but really need to concentrate on the lovely little tug I already have, so I'm offering it as a project. Main value is in the engine, of course. Tim
  10. Yes, that is critcal. If it's original on Japanese kit it'll almost certainly be Philips. or their own slight variant. Pozi would ride out. Tim
  11. Trouble is, Dean, that you do have a bit of a history of 'woe is me' threads Tim
  12. I have my 4LW set to about 380 rpm, it seems happy at that (heavy generator flywheel). Tim
  13. No they aren't! Maybe people like you who are living aboard and tied to work feel that way, but for those with more personal freedoms it's certainly not the case. Tim
  14. That's the dynamo drive, and several different ratios were fitted. You would have to establish what yours is before getting any meaningful info from it. Tim
  15. I'll hazard a guess that the maximum fuel stop on the pump rack is not quite correctly set. My little test of pressing up the cold start button when under load will give some indication as to whether it is or not. Tim
  16. No, it's Bridgewater unless you mean the winding hole through the tunnel. A wide boat tied there would attract loads of abuse. Tim
  17. You had me thoroughly confused for a while with all the references to BW... Tim
  18. Nobody has ever told me that in the last 67 years, I think you may be wrong!
  19. Nah, them's real rivets. I don't know the boat. Tim
  20. A prop which is right for 21hp@ 1200 rpm should only need about 27hp to turn it at 1300 rpm, but that's not a huge margin below the 29hp of the Gardner. My guess is that it's a slightly bigger than average 22 x 22 that the OP has. One little experiment I'd be inclined to try is to set the speed control for a higher speed than the engine will manage, and then press up the cold start button. There will certainly be some black smoke initially, but does the engine then settle down to a higher speed with no smoke? Obviously if there is constant black smoke, end the experiment and conclude that it is over-propped. Tim
  21. It might be worth trying the fitting of a breather/filler. When we had a 4LW which leaked a little bit of smoke (also no breather), rather than oil, when the engine was working hard, we just fitted a small extractor fan Tim
  22. What does the rating plate say? One option is to take the whole pump/governor/cambox assembly to a fuel pump specialist who still understands these things and has the kit to do it, and get them to set it for a recognised marine horsepower/rpm (eg 1300 rpm). If that makes no real difference, your prop is too big. Tim
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