Tracy D'arth

Why is there an olive inside the nut, it should be on the pipe!

For heavens sake, will some boater on here near S-o-A go and sort this guy out? There is so much conflicting info it is getting impossible to help.

What is that inside the nut? I doesn't look to be just grease. Use spanners, not dogs on nuts.

The nut has been dogged to death, how big is the hole in relation to the pipe? The olive is not on the pipe far enough.

Cut the end off the pipe. Put nut on pipe. Put 8mm olive on pipe. Push pipe into greaser as far as it will go. Tighten nut into greaser, crushing the olive onto the pipe. Don't go mad with the spanner, check that pipe will not pull out once tightened. Test, if leaky, tighten a bit more/ Are you sure of the sizes of your olives? It looks like 8mm or 5/16" pipe to me. 6mm olive should be nowhere near fitting on the pipe.

Peeling paint off is bad painting, lack of key, greasy/damp under the paint, rubbish paint. If you want sharp paint lines you use fine lining tape from 3Ms - not cheap masking tape.

What parts have you changed? Is the plastic pipe bent/crimped/melted somewhere? If you loosed the other end does grease then come out when you screw the greaser? How hard are you screwing it down? 8mm and 5/16" are so close that they are interchangeable in this application. You do not need inserts in nylon pipe for this task.

And it throws up a malware warning!

Peglers ball valves, the quality is far and away better. Buy cheap rubbish, expect problems. Gate valves have no place on a boat unless as balancing valves on a heating system, they never close properly.

ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195324804446?

If it is a fuel tank it needs to be certified fuel hose. https://www.advancedfluidsolutions.co.uk/18mm-d-nitrile-rubber-fuel-hose-tubing-34-breather-pipe-2118-p.asp

Thanks for that info. I always considered that lift pump to be a puny affair, this confirms it. With only less than 10" of lift its a wonder that it ever copes with a near empty conventional counter fuel tank. Perhaps this is a cause of the occasional post on here about Beta trouble bleeding fuel lines and engines cutting out.

Some of mine have been from Royal Mail vans!

Where? UK? Europe?

If you cut up a used filter, 99 times out of 100 you will find not much in it other than oil. I would have no qualms using the smaller filters providing they are changed every oil change. Even then I reckon you could use them twice as I always do with the larger cans. Besides it probably filters better with a bit of sediment closing the paper pores. I always have a neodymium magnet on the can to trap steel dust. Perhaps it does nothing but it costs nothing either.

Always use cogged belts on alternators because of the small pulleys.

I never buy anything from a marina or chandlers unless I cannot find the item elsewhere. I do not begrudge them a profit but most prices are just cheeky and extortionate. I buy filters for popular engines in 10s from trade auto outlets like The Green Sparkplug Co in Middlewich where you get great service and sensible prices.

Big Lock in Middlewich is a classic for anything can happen. The hire boats first day out have a high old time at this lock.

Whilton's other site is Venetian Marine in Cheshire, same applies, you can view as many as you like. A lot depends on where you are based. Unfair Alan. Many do and have had good experiences of buying from them. Its only the bad ones that get talked about. I have bought from Whilton and have no complaints but it is alway buyer beware wherever you buy. I do not like the unanswered question of ownership that sometimes comes up with Whilton though.

Your sealed system has zero pressure. It would look to have a red expansion vessel and a tap for filling with a hose connected to the water supply from your pump adjacent to that gauge. The photo is a bit close to be sure.

BMC 1.8D sump oil capacity including filter was quoted as 8.24 pints which is 4.68 litres. I use 5 litre cans and save a little for topping up later. But there are 3 designs of sump with differing capacities. Unless you have a very odd or very damaged sump, you are not getting all the old oil out. Have you tried draining from the sump drain plug rather than pumping (presumably by sucking from the dipstick tube) which may not be emptying the sump? Your dipstick could be wrong or the tube in which it sits could be the wrong length, I have seen many that have been changed. How long is your dipstick from the full mark to the top of the tube when it is installed? Your Mann, Fram and Crosland numbers for the filter are correct. There are many equivalent filters.

That area of baseplate will be the best pickled bit of steel in the boat!

A scientific point, the floor will always be at around 4 degrees C or higher as will the water under the boat unless you are in ice as thick as your draught.

I too have found it not as good as it was, but then I do go back a long way when paints had some body in them and you could not clean brushes in water!

Which ever rivet puller you use, stick a thick foam pad around the head. You will be glad you did when it jumps and narrowly misses your paintwork/glass.