Mad Harold

It would appear from all these posts that a stove will last for between 15 and 20 years.There will I suppose,be exceptions,but the price of a new stove will need to be factored into boat running costs.As has been pointed out several times.A boat may only cost a few hundred quid in maintainance one year,and a few thousand the next.

Don't think engine vibration has much to do with a stove cracking.It will be caused by metal fatigue caused by constant expansion and contraction.The thinner the metal (weather steel or cast iron) will fatigue quicker than thicker metal. As an example,jet turbine engines are given a life not on the hours they have run,but on the number of cycles they have clocked up.The cycles being the number of times they have been started up and shut down.The number of cycles is determined by accelerated testing to find it's fatigue limit. It is likely that stove cracking will be caused by lots of lighting up and shutting down,so a stove burning constantly should last longer than one that is frequently shut down. Can't add anything useful about specific stoves,but mine is an Evergreen,pretty thick cast iron,has two air wheels and two air wash wheels,is rated at 4.9kw but don't know how old it is (it came with the boat) and I have had the boat two years.It is perfectly satisfactory.

Been giving the subject of contaminated fuel more thought in the light of all these posts. As the fuel pickup pipe in the tank is above the tank bottom so that water/sediment sinks below the pickup and as the water strainer is in the fuel line,doesn't that mean that any water in the strainer is above the pickup so there may be two or three inches of water still in the tank,depending on the distance of the pickup from the tank bottom.? It seems likely to me that ANY water in the strainer means that the tank needs pumping out. In a previous life I was involved with aeroplanes,and they all had a spring loaded tap in the BOTTOM of the tank and draining some fuel to check for water was part of the pre-flight checks. As the tank on most narrowboats is part of the structure,fitting such a tap would be impractical so the only way really I think is to suck out a few litres every year or so with a Pela type pump from the bottom of the tank. Any one with more thoughts on this subject?

Oh stoppit,you're making me blush! The main problem was disposing of the dirty fuel,that's why after several filterings I tipped it back in the tank.Can't pour it down the drain,the council tip won't take it,and the marina would charge.I forgot to add that,the marina would only take a few litres,and not the total amount. The bit of knowledge I have of boating comes from three years of doing my own maintenance,making lots of cock ups and seeking advice from CWF. There are some "smart alec" answers,some theories,and in and among,some first rate advice from qualified and experienced people who generously share their expertise. I don't take everything on here as "gospel"but reading all answers,and giving them serious thought,I have found ways of tackling my boaty problems. Please don't go stamping off muttering unkind words about CWF,but persevere,it is worth it.

I use Fuelset,too, and this could be why my fuel looks cloudy. But,as I noted before,the engine starts and runs fine.

Pumped the bottom of my fuel tank recently.The first couple of gallons were jet black (like tar).I assume this was diesel bug.The next couple of gallons were cloudy (like the picture).And the next couple of gallons,and the next. Got fed up pumping,so decided to leave things as they were. Took the dirty diesel to the oil disposal tank at the marina,only to be told that I couldn't put fuel in there,unless I paid a fee of 50p per litre. I reckoned I had syphoned out about 10 gallons which would be twenty odd quid,so I took it to the council dump and was climbing the steps to the oil disposal tank,and one of the operatives shouted,"oy,whatcher got there"I told him it was diesel and there was a sharp intake of breath,and "not allowed mate" I syphoned about 8 gallons of cloudy diesel out of the container and put the mucky stuff in the oil disposal tank at the marina and paid a fiver. The rest I left to settle for a few days,it didn't,so I tipped it back into the tank.How else am I going to get rid of it? I have to report that the engine (a BMC) starts and runs as it always has. I would like to ask,anyone more knowledgeable than me,does Fuelset make any water mix with the fuel? If so,it would explain why the water didn't settle to the bottom of the container.

Open a window and keep the stove going. Check for leaking windows and vents. Don't boil rice,pasta or spuds without opening several windows.

The yard's insurance appears to cover damage caused by their negligence.the worst case is if they drop your boat if the sling breaks. However,I have read of a case of an old rusty Springer cracking the hull on liftout.

Reading your post made me feel very emotional. I have not lost a lifelong partner,and my health (presently) is good. Imagining myself in your position,I would be devastated,and don't know if I could cope. Your post has made me count my blessings, I grumble like mad over the number of locks on my local ditch,the price of mooring,and maintenance,but your post has shown how irrelevant these things are in the scale of things. My deepest sympathy and I wish you the best of luck.

I think the same. Welding that up to be able to withstand bolt tightening will be a tricky job.A piece of steel pipe made to be a push fit in both sections and held in place with Locktite or exhaust putty would be easier ( and cheaper )

I use longbeach when available at my mooring. Have used Supertherm,but find it pongs a bit and makes quite a lot of ash.Heat output is ok though. Longbeach is more "cindery" but burns hotter than Supertherm,and makes less ash.

It might depend on the type of blacking and the preparation done before. Cruised through thin ice last March on the Peak Forest without any noticeable damage to the blacking. It was blacked with Rylard Premium. It was done at Furnessvale Marina,who steam clean the hull before blacking,as opposed to pressure washing.