Mikexx

I'm surprised, I would have fitted the hot flow from the head to the TOP coil connection and the cold return from the BOTTOM of the coil. Is there a reason why you've chosen the opposite?

Is there any way a new bush can be fitted in the cup, and another bush above? Using either the steel centre tubing that comes with the bushes or your own cut down tube? It would need an old mount being taken to a motor factors, or diligent measuring and research. Possibly a new longer bolt would be required if the top bush isn't cut down to size. That would provide good lateral stability as well as up/down suspension. Just an idea.

Laptops are designed to peg out before the battery has been fully exhausted and warn you well before that. So no damage is likely in normal use.

I see no reason why your charger should not be happy with your 240V power source. Laptop batteries last longest when part charged and most laptops provide the option of state of charge, 100% and some lower value. If you want longevity select the lower value. Some laptops have this accessed through BIOS, other through the operating system. Without knowing yours I don't know if you have this feature. Personally I wouldn't cycle the battery as this will use up its life. This link goes into the specifics of lithium based batteries and their life-time: https://batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries It's a bit long but covers most aspects.

Although I haven't used this technique in this position, I have used many time it for brake lines for those troublesome unions. If you don't have a brake pipe spanner and can remove the union on the filter more easily, you may be able to slide a ring down onto the union on the pump, and a best chance of getting this to move without rounding off the nut. If you intend to get a 5 sided brake spanner, get a good one. Some are poorly toleranced and you're back to square one, well in a 6 sided way.

I had a look today and bled the system and is now running. There was very little air in the system. There was no air in the fuel filter, once I had pressurised the LP side by pumping all that came out here was fresh diesel. A miniscule amount of air came from the bled on the side of the pump. I could tighten one screw 1/2 turn on the governor tower, and the other by a flat or so. I recall the gasket is a cork one and assume it has compressed a little. I had a go at tightening other unions etc but they were already tight and didn't move. I've got some research to do, I understand the filters take 1/2" UNF fittings. Many thanks for those who have replied with their knowledge and experience.

Despite my reluctance I am considering this and the path it will have to take. I need to check fuel tank levels wrt to decking and where it will enter the tank. The pipe would pass through a gas locker which is not ideal. I will make a survey tomorrow.

Many thanks, yes, this is a 1.5 The system circulation is largely unchanged for the past 35 years as delivered to AngloWelsh with a minor exception, namely that the bleed off from the injectors flows back to the agglomeration filter and not to the main fuel filter. This mod was a decade or more ago and before my ownership. This issue has only appeared in the past 6 months or so. I am aware of the ideal fuel system, and yes air can accumulate, but would have thought this would accumulate in the fuel filter and I find very little there.

There is a bolt, and if I slacken this off I do get some air bubbles, but not enough to suggest the top of the filter housing is full of air. This is after manual priming of the fuel lift pump. There has to be quite a bit of air here trapped in the filter housing before it flows into the injection pump. Therefore I feel air is getting in post filter.

My BMC will stop once in a while after running during the warm up period. It has the classic speed-up symptom before failing. This will happen every so many hours of running and without warning. It's a pain, especially when I'm not on the boat. We religiously turn off the fuel tap after every run, I'm ever fearful of the tank emptying itself into the bilge for one. Since diesel probably has a higher thermal expansion coefficient than most metals I am wondering if the fluid contracts and pulls in air from somewhere not obvious during the cool-down There are no leaks apparent in the fuel system. Typically when I get to the boat I can undo the top screw of the fuel filter and there are some bubbles. However, given the outlet is effectively a dip-tube I believe the air should be above this point. I might see a small amount of air from the side bleed screw on the pump. It then takes a couple of goes of opening and closing the injector unions (plus the ones I mentioned) to get the engine running. The fuel system is not a full recirculation type. Instead the fuel is returned to the agglomeration filter. Without adding taps and holes in the fuel tank making this into the ideal, a full recirculation system is not a trivial thing to do. I shall be visiting the boat tomorrow and going to check on the other fuel unions to make sure they're tight, and also the tower screws as the gasket was changed a few years ago. I believe the fuel tank is sufficiently full that the fuel level is able the level of any pipework on the engine. Is this common feature? Is there a solution to this? I will post again tomorrow when I've made a more comprehensive check.

Specifically search with https://www.google.co.uk, when you've done your first search, under settings you can select UK only. For UK only domains include site:uk in the search line. HTH

Some years ago I gave the local authority chapter and verse regarding their responsibility to take household refuse from me as they were withholding a permit as I didn't, at that time, have a V5 for my vehicle. They relented after involving a local councillor and threatening to make a complaint to the Local Ombudsman.. The same must be true for stopping people visiting on foot. I would expect their policy could be reversed if pointed in the right direction. Not everyone has a car or a form of powered transport.

There is some interest in used oil for DIY operation of furnaces for melting aluminium and copper alloys. I had considered diesel as it has a higher adiabatic flame temperature than propane but don't have this facility - yet!

I would hesitate about putting any sealant on the shaft. The OP would never get the pulley back off. I would put sealant between the bolt and the pulley and/or between the pulley and slinger/chain sprocket if the OP can remove the pulley.

I was thinking about this. It takes a little time for unburnt diesel to exit the exhaust and so wondering how long this takes the OP to see smoke and then how long to start? I would be tempted to operate the lift pump until it feels hard and unresponsive after the engine is stopped. To make sure you have a complete lift pump quantity of fuel at pressure to overcome any leak. And try again when cold to see how pumps are required to get in the same state in the morning and compare. Or indeed any other time after stopping and starting a while later. If the fuel stop tap works this would also ensure fuel doesn't drain back into the tank, as well the return valve in the lift pump. I have known a return valve to fail in a lift pump. To be honest I thought these pumps were very sensitive to air such if any air got in them they would never start and require bleeding .

The left hand gasket is at lift pump pressure depending on the fuel return pipe and where it goes. If you hand operate the lift pump you might/should see fuel weeping from here. Just seen Tony's post and my thoughts were also on insufficient bleeding. When you slacken off the high pressure unions, do you see much fuel dripping from these when cranking?

Well advised. Mine started leaking from here after I re-arranged the pipes. The gasket is a thick cork one and allows movement, in my case lifted one side to cause a weep. The OP's photo does hint the same cause of leak.

Before purchasing a relay, can you measure the voltage between glow plug and block when your ignition switch is in the heat position?

Given housing and infrastructure hasn't kept up with population in recent times: http://home.bt.com/news/news-extra/this-is-how-much-the-uk-population-has-grown-over-the-last-50-years-11364069531812 It's hardly surprising. As you say it can only get worse.

If that is the case then I apologise. Many marinas are such boaters aren't obliged to have a license, and so obtain week, or month licences to cover the time they are outside of the marina. There are some who live-aboard and never leave. I knew one who couldn't venture out for months due to river levels.

Some do, and some don't. Some of the older ones, and their moorers, make no contribution to CaRT. Why do you think otherwise?

What is ironic is the person who moves the minimum distance every 2 weeks is contributing to the waterways considerably more than those in marinas who don't pay a license, apart from the exceptional excursion on the canals. Yet it is those in marinas who seem to complain the most about CCers who are also holding down a job.

On one car engine I had the followers were rather domed and flatted them on an oil stone. I'm not sure if it made much difference as what was really worn was the camshaft! Still, if you can get them out it's worth doing so and having a look at their state.

I was thinking this myself, or drilling the old stud out meticulously and clearing the existing thread with a tap. One issue may be access but preferable to disturbing the head gasket.

I presume you have a permanent mooring? I was taught evasion and avoidance were entirely different forms of tax reduction, one illegal, one legal, though the old K2 tax avoidance schemes are attracting a lot of attention. A lot of people have no interest in driving, but that doesn't stop them buying one and parking on the side of the road. There are places that only allow parking for a few hours, and in order for drivers to comply they have to move within that time. Or is that 'avoidance'?