James H

It seems pretty well wired up, the switch board has worked fine for everything on the boat since we bought it over a yr ago. Its just I've only now got round to wiring up a 12v socket so I can turn the inverter off and save some charge. I think the fuse board is wired up fine as its works well for everything else, its just something I am doing wrong with the way I have wired up the socket, must be to do with the wire or fuse, can't think what else it can be?!!!

Thanks for all the advice, I've fixed it with a new pump now. But I think it was just the washer on the outlet side that was worn and causing a leak which was the problem all along. So I have kept the old pump for now and I may get round to testing that theory. Cheers.

Hi Everyone, Would super appreciate a real basic breakdown here of where I am going wrong. So I am trying to wire a triple 12v socket (cigarette lighter style) from my switch board to charge 2 phones and our WiFi hub. The WiFi hub says 'input 12v - 2A' on the back. I have checked online and someone as successfully wired the same Huawei 3g hub onto 12v on their boat. I intend to power the hub, and be able to charge two phones all at the same time. The hub is 2 amps max, (I assume from it saying 'input 12v - 2A') and the phones both take 2amps max as most usb phone car chargers are fitted with a 2 amp fuse etc. So that means put a 6 amp fuse in the switch board for that one?! Correct?! Then if each of the 12v USB plugs for the phones have a 2amp fuse in each then that protects the phone should more power go through. So I did that, wired up the socket as above (except I had a 10amp fuse in switch board) and when I plugged in the phone it popped and I smelt burning, the fuse/USB car plug fried with too much power going in. So my question is how do you wire up a triple USB socket that can have say 6 amps minimum being supplied to the triple socket to have up to 3 devices (in this case 2 phones and a WiFi hub) without the power overloading one device and frying the fuse in the plug when only one device is plugged in??? I have added a pic where I show the positive line up top, that goes into the blue cable which goes into the fuse, then out to the switch and then the positive line goes out from there to the device its powering (in this case a socket), and the main negative is circled up top where I can attach the negative coming back from the socket. So what am I doing wrong??? Thanks in advance for any advice, its much appreciated...

Thanks for all these questions ill work my way through them. So I've looked at the 'new' pump and actually don't think it is new as it has dust collected around the top that looks as though its been fitted at somepoint for a decent period of time. I'll try plugging outlet and see if the pump still runs to test the pressure sensor. But if its new this should work! The rubber seal seems ok! If its an old pump do you think it could be something to do with the pump as to why its leaking out of the side clip of pump outlet? Or can it only be the rubber seal? Many thanks.

It seems to be leaking quite abit from the side clip of the pump when I turn the pump at the switch but without the taps running. Maybe once I can fix this leak it won't continously run anymore! But can see how to fix it at the mo!

With this new pump I've fitted when you turn the tap off the pump still runs at about half capacity (judging from the sound) as with the previous pump when you turned the tap off it sounded like it ran at fall capacity still! Either and airlock somewhere or a leak I think but I'm not sure! The flexi hose seems in good condition and the it doesn't seem to be dripping from the hose connecting to the pump but from directly under the side blue clip under the pump circled in picture. But once you have closed the clip I cant see what else can be done to make a tighter connection to prevent dripping! Any ideas? Thanks.

Thanks for that, I found a replacement pump of same male and model left by the previous owners in a box. I forgot about it but they said its a new replacement pump. Anyways I've fitted it, but the problem remains of the pump still running, it doesn't run as much but it must suggest a leak somewhere right?! Also it constantly drips where I have plumbed it into the pump, and I'm not sure how to stop it, as the jubilee clip is as tight as it can go and I've clipped it in which is it was previously attached! Any ideas of what else to do to stop the dripping?! I've circled where its dripping from in the pic. Really appreciate the help, thanks.

Hi Jen, Thanks for clearing that up for me. I don't have a calorifier, we just have a water heater instead. It could be a leak, but I think the leak would be pretty substantial if the pump is running all the time. Obviously we switch the water pump off on the fuse board, but it has been left on for a while by accident, and so if it was a leak surely it would be alot of water in the inspection hatch! The pump is old I think so probably the pressure switch! Is it easy enough to wire a square D pressure switch onto a Parmax 2.9, like would I need a different fuse etc or as I'm not very experienced with electronics maybe its best to just go for the same part again (pressure switch for the pump i have)!!!

Hey Everyone, I know this is probably a common fault and I have read through similar posts but I still need some help as I'm a complete newbie to this. If anyone could break it down simply for me I'd super appreciate it. So my water pump now runs continuously, so from what I've read it's a leak or pressure switch failure. 1. As I understand it you disconnect the outlet from the pump and turn on the tap, then if the pump stops when you turn off the tap that suggests its a leak! If the pump continues running its the pressure switch! Correct?! Makes sense but maybe there's more to it. 2. I am leaning towards it being the pressure switch as I don't have a serious amount of water in the hull (no more than usual) and no wet patches around connections like the washing machine, boiler, taps etc. Also a few people have said on this forum that its a common fault for the pressure switch to go as they only design them for leisure use and not the heavy use livaboards put them through. So it has been advised to get a more reliable 'square D' pressure switch and fit that. 3. Where is the pressure switch? This may sound like an obvious question but I'm not sure as I am fairly new to this so thought I'd ask. There's a round device separate to the water pump thats between the water pump and the shut off valve on the inlet? Could this be it? Or is the pressure switch usually built into the pump? I have a Jabsco Par Max 2.9 water pump if anyone is familiar with these?! Thanks for any advice, its all very much appreciated. James.

Hi Everyone, I went to the local recycling centre and they require proof that you are a local resident. As a continuous cruiser I am not registered local and so I need a way of disposing safely of my used engine oil. Can anyone please advice me on this? Also would handy if I could use local recycling centres for recycling in general, as the CRT don't provide many recycling bins. Any advise is much appreciated. Many thanks, Jim.

Hi Everyone, I'd super appreciate any advice... The front from my Morso squirrel stove has come away, it's pretty nippy at the mo and I need a new one fairly quick! I am thinking this is a good opportunity to get a burner with an oven built in, I also need it to have connections for my back boiler. I'm a livaboard so need something that can take alot of use. Any recommendations much appreciated, it's minus 2 outside! Thanks ?

Its says on the box: 'Sterling Advanced 4 step Split Charge Alternator to Battery Charger'. So I assume it will charge the batteries then. Of thats the case I need to know what size generator to get to go with this specific battery charger right!!

Thanks very much for all that. I think I have a locker for that purpose on board, I'll check first and get the correct approved containers. And yes agree LPG is not cheap nor practical, unless you ran your genne on the back deck, but thats not a good idea nor safe so wont be doing that. Cheers.

Sorry I am a complete novice trying to get my head around all this! Yes the charger and inverter are two seperate boxes. Does that mean the charger wont charge the batteries when plugged into the generator?! I.e I'll need a seperate battery charger! Thanks.

I have a: 'Sterling Advanced 4 step Split Charge Alternator to Battery Charger'. And a: 'Pro Power S sine wave inverter' (240v). So if I plug the lead straight from the inverter to my shore line socket, switch over the switch to the shoreline socket, then hopefully that'll go through my alternator/battery charger and into the batteries, as well as through the inverter into my 240v sockets! Right?! Cheers. I haven't got the generator yet, am still just trying to figure out my exact set up first! Appreciate the help. ?