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    Buckden, Cambridgeshire

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Cattleya's Achievements



  1. Hi all, I have these ancient metalastik type rear engine mounts on my BMC 1.5 that have given up and need replacing. This one had broken before and was fixed as part of an engine rebuild by Calcutt Boats, it looks like they just filled the centre with a rubber washer. I know these are obsolete, does anyone know of a source to buy some used or a way of changing to a different mount? A search of the forums revealed I'm not the first with this issue but I couldn't see how it was previously resolved.
  2. The leads connecting my glow plugs have fallen apart (engine is a BMC 1.5), does anyone happen to know what size crimp lugs I need to make new ones up, I think they are about 4mm but am not sure on that.
  3. Thank you Tony. I have been looking at how the DPA pump works and from what I can see there is a spring loaded valve connected to the throttle that moves up and down to control the flow of fuel, with the stop lever puling this up to stop the flow of fuel. Is it possible for fuel to leak past this in a worn pump?
  4. Thank you Tony, that doesn't sound too difficult to remove. I'm on a limited budget and I know how the marina engineers like to turn everything into an expensive invoice, so I will remove the pump and take it to be tested. What has fallen off the top is a cover that was over one of the adjustment screws, this also had some sort of attachment that stopped the screw moving. I'm not sure if this has anything to do with my problem.
  5. I have had this issue on and off for a few years now, most of the time my BMC engine runs without any issues but every so often it won't stop when I pull the manual stop lever. The issue isn't anything to do with the cable as I've checked and the lever on the governor turret moves its full travel. Once it starts playing up it will continue to do so until after the engine has been left a few hours to go cold. I'm guessing something has worn in the turret on top of the CAV pump, or maybe there is a problem in the CAV pump itself allowing fuel to leak past. When it plays up the engine will rev to about 1200rpm when the stop lever is pulled, normally tick over is about 600rpm. I'm certain the engine is not running on its oil when it does this as it does not rev uncontrolled, it just picks up to 1200rpm, plus the oil level remains the same. I don't know much about how the CAV injector pump/governor works so am reluctant to take it to bits. How do I remove the pump from the engine so I can take it to a specialist? Does the engine have to be in a certain position to remove it? Will I mess up the timing by removing it? I'm trying to work out if I can DIY or if I need to pay a mechanic to remove and refit the pump.
  6. Thank you Tony. I had the engine rebuilt a few years back (at great expense) by calcutt boats. According to the invoice this included a recon injector pump. The engine has had an easy life since then so hopefully nothing major is wrong.
  7. I had this issue a while back and it went away, from time to time and usually after a good run my BMC 1.5 won't stop. Pulling the stop lever results in the revs going from around 800rpm to about 1500rpm, dropping into gear stalls the engine and that's how I stop it when this happens. I have the CAV fuel injection pump which I believe revs up when starved of fuel as it thinks the revs have dropped so runs faster. This isn't the engine running away as it doesn't ever rev higher than 1500rpm, so I'm guessing something is broken in the injection pump. Pushing the stop lever back in causes the revs to drop back to idle. Has anyone had the same issue and any ideas of where to start looking?
  8. The compression test was done by removing the injectors, not the glow plugs. AFAIK they have not tested fuel at the injectors, all they did was the compression test. Now the injectors are off they will be easy to test.
  9. It won't start at all after bleeding it. Since having this problem I have only managed to get it running on one occasion after using Easystart. It then run fine if switched off for a short while, but became progressively more difficult to start the longer it was left. By the next day it wouldn't start at all (but didn't try Easystart again).
  10. The marina have seen my post on another forum and are annoyed that I don't trust their judgement. I had a bit or an argument with them as I said the gearbox job had ended up costing £1200 more than they quoted. Anyway I found out the injectors are out of the engine, so would be easy to test. Also the cylinder with poor compression is one in which I replaced the glow plug. I couldn't get the glow plug to screw in as far as the old one. So there might be a chance that is causing low compression. But they say the others being at 200 to 240 PSI means the engine is dead. To be honest I'm considering selling the boat, I just don't have much money to spend on it. The marina insist the only way forward is a new engine and still claim Easy Strart did the damage.
  11. Thank you so much for all the advice. How many hours has the engine run and how old is it? teh engine may be getting to the stage when a c/head overhaul is needed, including servicing of the injectors. The engine has done 1500 hours since 1975. As has been said, a good battery is needed, as using the glow plugs takes a lot out of a battery and reduces the cranking power considerably. Would a low battery cause a reduction in the compression readings? Unless the marina charged my battery first (unlikely) it was already down on power from my last attempts at starting the engine. Usually I leave it to charge for a day before making an attempt at starting the engine. The battery seems to be in good order. What cooling system do you have, It's not raw water cooled. The engine has a heat exchanger and is cooled with water from the river which passes through the heat exchanger and cools the captive cooling side.
  12. It sounds like I'm best to do the work myself. Does anyone know the name of the special spanner for the head bolts? I mentioned to the marina that I thought you needed a special spanner and they had told me you don't. I think that shows how little they know about this engine. I think I'll take off the glow plugs and check them out, then take off the rocker cover and measure the valve clearance. Then I guess it's time for taking the head off and dropping it into a specialist for repair. Sounds like my boating is over for the season, but at least with the DIY approach I'll still be able to afford to eat!
  13. Hi Alan, I'm in Buckden marina on the River Great Ouse, Cambridgeshire.
  14. were are you people may be near to you and be able to help

  15. Thank you for all the suggestions so far. I'm on a river, not the canal. The nearest place I could take it for someone else to work on it is a couple of hours up the river. I really don't believe it's as terminal as the marina say. I just get the impression they prefer to replace things than attempt to mend them. They said Easystart is evil but then said they use it to start their tractor. I don't believe that Easystart killed the engine, it didn't run before I used it. I also tend to think that something has broken, as the boat run one week and not the next. That doesn't sound like compression, which I presume would be lost slowly over years with the engine getting progressively worse at starting. I did take a cylinder head off a car once and took it to a specialist for repair. So I guess I could extend my DIY skills to removing the head if necessary.
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