Sea Dog

If it was OK before you did remedial work to correct normal wear and tear, it hasn't gone wrong now because a plummer block isn't fitted. On the other hand, if that wear and tear has occurred prematurely, the original installation may have been poorly done. You need to resolve that first. If the original installation was good, you've either done something wrong (alignment perhaps?), you've disturbed something, or you have not done all the work needed (engine mounts shot?).

Johnnie, you need to see what's in there so you can add more of the same, because red (5 year) and blue (2 year) antifreeze shouldn't be mixed. Despite earlier advice, I'd use deionised water (rather than tap water), which is also what pre-diluted coolant will contain. If you're using concentrate, you need to dilute to between 25% and 50% iaw your manufacturers instructions and the minimum temperature protection you're seeking g the higher concentration of AF will protect to lower temperatures. A cheap Halford or similar anti freeze tester will confirm what concentration you currently have in there.

I agree with posts above and I'd always wire for max rated output too... on everything else. However, from what I've read here it appears these things kick out the square root of bu@@er all and rated output figures seem like fantasy. So, it might be worth looking at what it might max out at in reality, adding a safety margin, and then fusing such that it's safe. It could be the exception that proves the rule if it takes the hurricane it won't be left out in to get the output anywhere near max rating. Now, perhaps that won't work out as viable once the maths is done, but it's a site more practical a proposition and worth exploring than trying a 2-3 quid Chinese connector of eBay and seeing how it goes.

So, it's 600w max at 12v, but what are the real world figures? Have you used it before to know, or can you try it in a stiff breeze? I ask because, although ordinarily you should be wiring to cope with the 50a it could produce (and a 2-3 quid Chinese cheapo socket from EBay will cope with that only until it arrives in the post!) in reality you'll probably be nowhere near it. For a start, the thing is up a 16ft alloy pole, so real wind will probably see you out in the rain in your pyjamas taking it down before it plunges into the cut! I'm jesting, of course, but there's a load of guesswork here unless you really know what current your coping with.

The headroom at the centre line in my narrowboat's accomodation is 6'5". I have a couple of friends who are 6'3" and both fit into the boat perfectly well. Not all boats have this much headroom of course, but they are out there. My boat was built by Piper Boats, who also supply hulls to some other yards for fitting out, although I can't say if all of their hulls have this much headroom. It also has a full sized double bed in the aft cabin and the dinette is 6'6" long when made up into the guest bed, so tallert owners are not necessarily at a disadvantage. Remember that as you increase the beam of your boat, many other costs also rise in proportion. For example, in many marinas you may be taking up two berths; as the beam increases you may have a bigger engine with increased fuel consumption, particularly in the case of a Dutch Barge. Size matters, but it isnt everything.

Nice work 4-50!

The electricity supply company and the marina have already been paid for it, so they have no interest. The person who has paid for it has left and has no further use for it, they even said a neighbour was welcome to use it up, so they have no interest either. Nevertheless, 3 pages later, it's still being debated by others with no interest! Go figure Maybe someone should hand it in at "the place or position the police stand or are assigned to stand"?

We had one near us that whistled. Lord only knows what it's like to be near one that knows the lyrics!

You really should have done that before you put down a deposit James. I guess you're beginning to realise that already, but it's worth reiterating for those who read this forum before buying themselves. Sorry to appear negative; I wish you well with your boat.

The Severn can be fine in winter, you just need to pick your slot. When we went up last February the water was quite low and the river was a pussycat. Also, remember that lock opening days and hours are restricted in winter and you need to book your passage at least 24 hours ahead.

Only the bottom bit of the engine space is underwater and hence insulated. The waterline is an inch or so above the uxter plate, hence all above that level is steel against the outside air and is well vented to boot. I think it does well to only get down to -3 if outside is well below that. Richard's point was that the water keeps the space relatively warm at those temperatures, and I think my max/min measurements support that even in really cold weather. As for the accommodation, even athough we're a well insulated boat, big windows and mushroom vents allow that area too cool right down when there's no-one aboard. Under the deck is also likely to be warmer due to its water jacket, although I haven't been in to check! I can attest that my water tank doesn't freeze when we're iced in after 10 days stuck at the bottom of Tardebigge this winter! I do, of course, isolate the tank, drain the fresh water pipework and leave all taps open when I leave the boat in winter but, as I said, I'm now content not to always completely drain the fw tankas I used to as long as it's 25% or below as that portion of the contents is underwater and unlikely to freeze even when there's no heating on - but it has room to expand should it do so. Back to the topic, the coldest I've ever seen recorded in my battery space is -3 degrees even in very much lower outside temperatures.

I don't subscribe to a Combi being inherently less reliable than separates either, certainly not in terms of quality units. I can see why some may be attracted by the idea that, if something does go wrong, it could be cheaper and easier to replace only that particular unit with separates. However, I'm in the fortunate position of having a Mastervolt 100/2500 Combi and would replace it with another similar unit in a heartbeat if it died. I fervently hope it doesn't though! (££££s)

I have an electronic max min temperature display in my engine 'ole (trad Stern) with the probe hanging just above my batteries which sit on the swim. The lowest I've seen there is -3 when the boat has been unoccupied - the accommodation area has been lots colder. I stopped emptying my water tank if I was leaving the boat unoccupied in the winter once I'd been frozen in and I was sure that the surrounding canal water also prevented the bottom of that from freezing. I'm happy to leave it with 25% or less now, with plenty of room for expansion if it turns really Arctic.... or I'm wrong! So, I agree with Nick's post above.

Blue is likely to kill off the bacteria (good and bad) and stop any enzyme additive from working. Given the price of pump outs, you may be best to live with it this time and wait till you need your next pump out before changing. A really good rinse will help, so a friendly pump out station would be useful but many are timed, with 8 minutes being fairly common, so you may not achieve a totally blue-less tank at the first go. I'd say persevere though, because the enzyme route has worked for me. Not only in eradicating smells, but also in breaking down solids which can accumulate and not be shifted by rinsing alone. My black water gauge with a probe type sender unit used to be inaccurate, sticking at about 60% for ages before suddenly declaring 100% shortly after I found that out by other, less pleasant means! This was every time, not just occasionally, and I'd checked electrical connections, swapped gauges with my similar fresh water indicator, etc, all to no avail. I'm convinced it was no coincidence that my gauge began to work correctly soon after I started using Silky 65 and that solid accumulation was the cause. There are other enzyme treatments, and some folk swear by brewer's yeast, but Silky is inexpensive and at a teaspoon a month lasts ages, so I'm sticking with what I know works.

I blame those wind turbines. Most of the time they're benign enough, just sat sitting there making the countryside look like Mercedes-Benz sponsored it. Sometimes they move a bit, occasionally even fast enough to chop up some migrating geese or a few seagulls. Every now and then though they get in sync and blow a hooligan, causing untold damage and mayhem. It's a conspiracy I tell you!

Ah, I thought you were advocating separates for reasons which may not have influence in the OPs case. That's cleared that up anyway. Quite understand why you'd have done that then, and it's interesting to hear that you wouldn't now. Also interesting to read other folk's views and ideas here. I'm left thinking that separates probably make sense at the lower end of the market where failure is more of an issue, but a Combi comes out better as long as you buy a reliable brand - probably Victron or Mastervolt. Not without their issues, of course, and OK if you can afford them, but there's far fewer threads here starting with "Help - my Victron/Mastervolt.... " than with Chinese/eBay/Sterling, even allowing for market size.

I took it that he was looking for somewhere to launch a trailered boat rather than haul out for work, but you might be right Jonesey!

To be fair, you're not really a typical Narrowboat inverter charger purchaser then by 'eck. Most buyers here, not least the OP, won't be flying their kit across the pond and claiming their vat back.

You only realise quite how often it's not windy in England when you have something wind dependent, such as a yacht or a windsurfer. Then, it can become a bit of a disappointment, whereas with a wind powered generator I imagine it would be a right royal pita! Edit auto correct.

Well, if nothing handier pops up, there's always Stourport where you can slip into the Severn and lock straight up into the canal.

I'd recommend Silky 65, which is an enzyme additive. A teaspoon full per month in a properly vented, chemical free tank promotes good digestion!

Hmm, sounds like the filter is there to make up for a design flaw then. There's bound to be some smell occasionally given the content, but the really bad whiff occurs when the tank goes anaerobic which the vent is there to counter. When the good little aerobic bacteria do their thing there should be very little smell.

Easier than for a single handed yachtie to keep a good lookout and still get some sleep though, eh? I wonder if Helen McArthur's insurance company knew?

Does it really need it? Mine's a Jabsco macerator which doesn't have such a filter and I can't see (smell?) what it would achieve. Sounds like a bit of a liability for little gain.

Oh heck, if being called 'love' is thought unpleasant any cruising further north is not going to go well! How does 'me duck' go down, cos there's likely to be a fair bit of that on your travels too. Back to DCT, we had 2 nights there earlier this year just by the sanitary station, opposite Dennis the blacksmith's pair. No issue at all, good moorings and the DCT folk were keen to tell us about their project and seemed very nice. I'm surprised to hear this, but clearly others have also had a poor reception. Maybe I was just lucky to miss Mr Grumpy?