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gary955 last won the day on April 27 2015

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  1. The "pureheat" on the link you posted does look like my coal...however the "pureheat" in this photo from another merchant does not. I think many merchants just use any name without consistency across different parts of the country
  2. I've been up in Wolverhapton over winter. I've been sourcing my coal from Mark at Coven Heath pump out, it's apparently called Warmfire and is supplied by N&R Fuels in Wolverhampton. I've never heard of it before, and a google search draws a blank. In my stove it burns hot and is long lasting, it leaves absolutely no clinker and produces minimal ash. The size of it is quite large and the nuts are clean with a soft matt look and with very little dust in the bags. I'm now down on the Thames and as I've nearly run out I'd like to get a few more bags to see me through the last of the cold weather. does anyone on the forum know of a supplier of it in the West London area or perhaps recommend something with similar properties? I've previously burnt Taybright, Stoveglow , Superblaize and Homebase Blaze. The Stoveglow is OK but the rest have been disappointing
  3. gary955

    Electric Oven

    Yeah I have one of those on my Narrow boat, its brilliant and cooks perfectly. Thanks for the link Alan but it must be full size domestic single oven to replace the existing one
  4. gary955

    Electric Oven

    We'd cook before 8 and only use the oven occasionally anyway so I don't really mind dragging the genny out for the odd occasion. We tend to use the oven for an hour only so fuel for the genny won't really be an issue....but yes, suggestions for a non rubbish built in 600mm gas oven would be most welcome as the best solution A frying pan or a lay in both seem like acceptable solutions for that one
  5. gary955

    Electric Oven

    We've recently refiitted our galley including a domestic gas oven (jetted for lpg) It's rubbish! It won't maintain a steady temp and there's a wide temp differential between the top and bottom. Despite nice blue flames there's also a bit of CO when in use (about 20ppm) and it requires 240v anyway to run it's case cooling fan as its built in I'd rather go electric, we're often in marinas with power available, and when not have a Kipor 2600 suitcase genny. Some cheap ovens have a 2kw element which I'm assuming would be ok for the genny but there are many replacement elements available for electric ovens some as low as 1700w. Anyone run a domestic oven off a suitcase genny with success?
  6. Thanks all, I'm hoping to get a little further than Autherley junction on the first day but advice appreciated
  7. I have to cruise from Hatherton Junction to John Sandersons yard in Stourbridge, starting new years day. I've checked the CaRT website for stoppages and all looks clear. My intended route is down the Staff and Worc and then up the Stourbridge canal. Do any members know of any problems or can anyone recommend (or warn against) any particular overnight stop? Cheers me-dears. Oh nearly forgot, I could do with a pump out en route!
  8. Your pics look like a good recommendation. I'll call on Monday
  9. Does anyone have any recommendations for a yard able to repaint the cabin sides and roof of a 55ft narrowboat? it's a trad with engine room and back cabin so some nice sign writing req'd as well. The boat is currently near Wolverhampton but I intend to move it south, so yards on route can be considered.
  10. I think we're saying ignore the advice then? Perhaps a forumite with a Tracer controller might be able to share their experience. I sourced the panels from this company after phoning round various suppliers to enquire about the presence of bypass diodes in their panels due to the inevitable partial shading of the panels in my application. This guy was the only one to have that knowledge of his panels. He supplied Panels, controller, appropriately sized and terminated cables, good quality mountings, was very price competitive and supplied zero rated for VAT under HMRC notice 744c. I think his advice is wrong on this matter but I don't consider him a "snake oil salesman" and am happy with his company's products and service.
  11. Yes. I don't want to name him because he's been very helpful and seemed quite knowledgeable, but I'm hoping that on this occasion his advice is wrong.
  12. The supplier of my solar panels has surprised me by insisting that when I charge the batteries via my mastervolt 25amp charger or via the engine alternator, that the Tracer 20amp MPPT solar controller must be disconnected from the batteries and that the solar panels must be disconnected from the controller! Is this advice correct? I certainly didn't do this on my narrowboat with it's single solar panel and PWM controller.
  13. Thanks all for the reply's I think I am now able to make a decision. Mike I agree with what you say about accessibility of the controller although ironically I've chosen the less accessible option which is within an electrical panel in the wheelhouse. If it turns out to be a right pain then I can mitigate it with a remote display available from the controller manufacturer. I'm hoping that having set up battery type, voltage and charging voltages on the controller initially, the battery monitor will keep me informed as to current in and out of the bank. Smiley Pete, Nicknorman, Asia_off_grid I've worked out cable sizes from panel-controller and controller-battery's to be appropriate for 1% voltage drop. Future expansion is limited by space available as I want the installation to be as discrete as possible to maintain the classic look of the boat. The panels are on the wheelhouse roof but I have to maintain access to the radar, navigation lights, GPS and VHF antenna's, perhaps I could squeeze one more panel on and I have included this in the calculations. Tony. Good to know that you have successfully used a common neg return without affecting performance, I think this was my main concern. Logic suggests that a 35mm2 cable is going to be better than a 10mm2 cable but I had a lingering doubt, wondering if pos and neg wires should be matched pairs.
  14. Mike has a point in that the wheelhouse installation would be preferable from a convenience point of view but I ask the question because the electrical integrity is paramount. What I didn't mention is that I have a Victron battery monitor installed and having the negative from the solar controller on the wheelhouse busbar would avoid the need for another ring terminal to be stacked on the load side of the battery monitor shunt (there are already three) The 3m of 10mm2 wire would be a minor expense in the grand scheme of things. I'm not an electrical engineer but I'm assuming that the dissimilar cabling from the controller to the battery's would not be an issue. ie 10mm2 dedicated positive and 35mm2 shared negative. is this correct? It's always a little difficult to explain to explain these things in writing, is my post clear?
  15. I'm fitting solar panels to my boat, 3x 100w panels. It's not a narrowboat installation, and with the panels on the wheelhouse roof and the battery's near the bilge of our little harbour tug, there's some fairly long cable runs involved. The panels are wired in series and together will produce a max of about 57v at 5.5amps into a MPPT controller and from there to the battery's at 24v and about 12.5amps. These are theoretical maximums which in reality will never be reached with flat mounted panels. The cables from the panels to the controller are 4mm2 and to get the controller within a metre of the battery's the cable run will be in the region of 8m. The supplied cable from the controller to the battery's is 6mm2 of 1m length. The alterative is to mount the controller in the wheelhouse to make the panel to controller cable run 5m. The neg from the controller to battery could be made off to a nearby neg busbar which returns to the battery's via a 35mm2 cable and the pos from the controller could be taken to the battery's via a new 10mm2 cable of 3m length. Which installation do our electrical experts prefer
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