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billybobbooth

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Everything posted by billybobbooth

  1. Yer I'm not sure if was a gu boat or not?? Seamed odd it was a gloss red, it's not the undercoat red they got sent in it's was def gloss
  2. Hi guys hope someone can help anyone got any info on engine number 31343? Don't know if it's a gu number or not but it's stamped all over my gearbox, odd thing is my box and engine were a built lump that got put in late 60s very early 70s, as far as I know it only had 1 full engine rebuild in this time, now the odd bit the box was originally red, there were 3 layers of colour on my box green I put on green mid brunswick then odd patches of gloss red under this mostly in the really hard to get areas, so I'm guessing it had had a back to near metal paint job although some bits were ov hard to get at and got missed I didn't miss these bits. So engine number 31343 And second why red?
  3. I have a lorry auto flywheel and a rx7 auto flywheel. As both had correct direction flywheel and starter motor and over 2kw as I'm putting my starter motor under the bolinder fuel tank so it sits forward of the engine not to the side like normal
  4. I'm currently fitting a starter ring gear that bolts on all adapters made will go with a 2kw starter motor, you can take most starter motors and have a new gear put on them so you could use a lorry one, and convert to fit, Mine is being made as bolt on so only machine work was a few days in the lathe, I'll take pics if wanted, my plan is to turn by hand then kick starter in to start. Use decomposition levers still so your only turning over semi weight to speed not dead start.
  5. Good work on the boat, I'm really glad to see someone else put in the effort by themselves and get stuck in and save a wooden boat rather than the oooooo it's 100k job that. You should be really proud of what you have done! Glad your also back to work!
  6. There not matts pics or at least the ones he used to sell them, and it's not moored at there's either
  7. Well it's been a while and thought would do an update will add photos later but after towys engine being 3/4 finished was just water and oil lines left, I ended up with a boot full (Car was on its arse wouldn't have got down back roads) On this it ment I decided to fully remove the engine. Her engine has now had the following done. 1 x Brand new cylinder head fully built up. X2 good cylinder heads fully stripped and rebuild using all new parts (while was at it decided to rebuild a spare has had enough new bits) Brand new national tower with new liners, new pistons with rings new national rods and bearings (original type that need the big end bolting and shimming to the rods) Very low used water pump housing with new internals (one side was new never used one side had very little use but had a new one made using new old parts as copies) New water pump pistons, rods, shafts, seals, electrics, gear housing has had all new bearings, has been converted to a sealed unit as 1 of the things I found looking at the gear housings I have is they very quickly and easily block on the oil feeds and there is a very poor design on the input as it has to run round the outside of the shaft bearing to get to the rest of the pump this blocks up and no oil get to the water pump gear housing. This problem has been removed and will run on gear oil. Only part old is the bilge pump engaging ring. Fully rebuild govenor using 3/4 new parts, all other parts have been replaced or fully stripped remachined refurbished and extra bearings added to remove wear & future wear and ease of repair in future, only the casing & the speed control arm (to the speed control leverback cabin) have not been replaced or repaired but new bearings have been fitted in housing. Fully refurbished drive shaft for water pump - governor. Refurbished cam shafts, 1 has new lobs fitted other has had new lobes in past so these were cleaned up. New bearing in camshaft holder (timing chain end) fly wheel camshaft holders have been replaced with new parts and a manual oil feed added as the originals have now oil feeds the just work on oil falling down and praying it lands on the very small very shallow cup to lube, this has been made into a big cup but as said manual oil feed added so can be filled with oil, has had the end caps removed and a 1/4 bsp bit added with a inner washer to remove bearing in future if required. Oil pump been fully refurbished with new shafts and bearing, the bearings have been replaced with oilite bearings as the stock again just works on a small grove and oil off the timing chain splashing oil at it, it has also had the oil feed from the water pump relocated to the oil pump shaft and a drain hole added so it gets an oil feed another fault that's common as the original has effectively no oil getting to the bearings. So far all other bearings have been replaced and all other oil lines and feeds have been replaced. 1/2 the engine is now ready to have gaskets made and then ready for test fits to check end float on all shafts and shims and new thrust rollers can be ordered. Once this is done will be onto new white metal bearings (12kg of lms loco white metal is ready to make new bearings from) Then it's onto gearbox full rebuild (has already had new reduction gears and bearings replaced) will have all gears and bearings replaced and both drive cones and housings be recut to match to remove and lips or scoring.
  8. Seamed to be 2 fog or drive - master. Yer I needed help with the laces!
  9. All paint removed reveals the old chrome and in odd places the black that was on before, the front ring is still black. Removed the old mount, cleaned the holder nut and bolts. Just got to paint and clean front ring, rewire the bulb holder and she's back to how it was in claytons.
  10. Yep that's the ones, I've now stripped down the paint on umea and it was black before the blue, it's a novtek drive master, so more convinced than was that it's more than likely the one she used in claytons
  11. Yes have s copy of that one. It's a shame I didn't know she was being broken up rather than just taken apart for was told a rebuild, otherwise I would have tried to save more, but I got a few bits to put back on towy, but now trying to peice the bits I have to there dates and if there original or not. I'm also in the dilemma of do I leave on made from scratch but copies of what was fitted to towy or do I fit the bits from umea knowing they were on there when she was working from claytons (if not original)
  12. I have seen one from a long view side on but a bit towards the back? I know it's spay but it also had a very similar lamp. As with alot of stuff history and info get lost with time and give were now nearly 60 years on from the last tco working days and some 70 years+ from.when pics were taken and the people on the boats and taking the pics are long gone. So trying to peace all the history back together document it and then restore it to as close as can to used dates is very hard.
  13. I know it's an old post but how many owners did umea have when leaving claytons? Reason I ask is I have some of her parts, and believe them to be original or at least from claytons days rather than repaired / replaced parts. I'm currently in the process of restoration of her lamp. Reason for the above is I'm trying to work out if the lamp I have is her original, I've a few pics of it when on the boat for some reason umea seamed to be the only one that had her lamp on the engine room, I've seen a few pics of it in this place and by the looks it looks like its the same lamp, They seam to be quite rare pics of claytons with there lamps fitted, Anyone got any good pics of her lamp from when she worked? As above interested to know how many owners she has a I know she was converted very quickly after selling from claytons, anyone got any bow pics after she was first converted? Second pic is not mine hope its OK being used. You can just about make out the lines in the lamp glass and the back of the lamp has the right sort of shape to the one that I bought, it had been modded at some point with a modern lamp inside when I got it this has now been removed and a replacement reflector and bulb as originally fitted to the one I have. Given the type of lamp it is it dates from 1930-1940 as this is the time these style of lamps was produced
  14. Sorry not posted pics got stuck into other work for new build but will photo today
  15. That's yes I guessed the first one must have been gu as Fulbourn was only a few builds away, 71147 is where my camshafts came from there not a part number there def an engine number as the cam lobes are stamped aswell but the both have as Lloyd stamp too so could be mod or sea engine parts. 46624 I can't remember off top of head which parts were from this engine I have a feeling it was one of the cylinder heads and pos flywheel (I know this has a stamp on it) but will check when finished stripping parts down as I'm stripping down and replacing with new parts as I go so I don't get too many seals and bearings mixed up. Thanks for info
  16. Yes you would think so wouldn't you, as an engine builder this was my thought, and from what I can tell is how rm built there's as I know I have an rn exhaust side shaft. However this would not seam to be on a national, I have 2 set both with inlet and exhaust stamped with it the other way round and my pics above are inlet on the left. The lift seams to be around the same but the lobes are diffrent, hence I want to see what others are.
  17. Yes! As long as you know which cam was on which side as that's the important bit,
  18. I need some help only applies to national engine as believe rn is diffrent. I have 4 sets of cam shafts with there lobes, 1 or 1/2 set is def rn camshaft and the rn is diffrent. Now anyone who has a national can you check what cam lobe they have on which side of there engine? It's a 5 min job if you take the inlet side crank case cover off and shine a torch in there are 2 lobes on the camshaft its either quite pointy or more rounded can you photo the lobe and post it up please. Reason I ask is I have 2 shafts luckly stamped but the setup seams to go against normal engine building and rn seam to be the other way round. Please see my pics and you'll see the diffrence
  19. It having other parts thrown in wouldn't surprise me at all, but some of the parts to remake like the flywheel, cam shafts, cams (threw many spares only found these fitted with part numbers) and quite a few cast parts would surprise me more if they went made in the original factory
  20. As above anyone got a national parts list manual? I have one but the numbers don't add up to any parts I've got stamped on the engine, after some stripping down and some work I believe my old engine was build wrong. Luckily there are some part numbers which if can be checked then I can confirm if it was built wrong or if normal logic engine building was not followed on these engines. My new engine will be virtually ready to put together by end of week but I have 3 items stopping me from doing so 1 of these I have part numbers on. I've got other items too that are stamped but my list starts at 1-1000+ but these parts are 4k and 5k numbers
  21. I will take pics today / tomorrow as I clean bits up but it's very simple system as my previous image shows. It's got a simple chain down to a gear with 2 cut notches in the back, behind that sits a plate with 2 sprung loaded arms around inch long, as the handle is turned the to sprung loaded arms lock into the gear. Once the engine is turning these sprung arms just run round the gear and the speed forced these arms to not engage, as the speed slows or gets too slow the speed is no longer fast enough to hold the arms out and it starts to bounce off the handle gear giving a click noise. It's a very easy and good way of setting your idle speed as too slow it clicks so you just adjust till it just stops clicking. I have mine set so it just stops clicking in gear this way you avoid any unnecessary wear. Modern rn engines tend to have very slow and low idle but this is due to alot not having hand start. I have seen some that run so slow that any slower they would stop.
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