jonathanA

Isn't it the barrus engine where there is some convoluted arrangement between the run/stop solenoid and the starter to avoid having a stop switch/engine stop position on the ignition switch ? That could possibly explain then issue and RCR might have it right... 🤔

Would anyone know/care if you booked for tomorrow and went today? I think you would at least be trying to adher to the spirit of the agreement if not the exact letter.

I have the option of filling my own 205l drum and do have access to loader or digger to move it about. Although my current thinking is to use 2 barrels and empty the full one into one on a stillage/bund so I don't have to move a full one around. Last time I checked a 205l drum was still cheaper than buying full duty white or red in small quantities. But to be honest it's more about convenience for me tha out and out money-saving. I don't have a saved link but did spend quite a bit of time googling the new red rules and I think I ended up on a gov.uk or hmrc page which gave good examples iirc.

Yes but thats clearly commercial use... I didnt even know you could get electric diggers ? Although I have seen electric (agricultural) tractors.

I wonder whether having a 225l barrel delivered maybe a better option ? Plastic bunds to stand a barrel on are readily available. My understanding is non commercial electricity generation is still allowed with Red.

Whilst cheesegas is correct these pumps do have npt threads, In my experience bsp fittings are a good fit and don't leak. Although some care is needed and you need to check the mating faces are compatible. I use flexible connector hoses and speedfit connectors all readily available from screwfix. It's hard to tell what the gate valve is fitted to but it's worth trying to do away with it. If all else fails I'd leave the gate valve and fit something better after it (but close) and just ignore the gate valve.

Reedley marina Burnley is also worth a look. We'll positioned for the A59 and or M65. Not residential, but you can live aboard providing you spend something like 4 weeks a year away. E.g a couple ofweeks of holiday somewhere in the sun plus a few weeks cruising somewhere.... Definitely worth hiring. ABC used to operate a couple of boats from Reedley. Pennine cruisers in Skipton are also worth looking at for a hire boat. Good luck

I thought you were going g to say "up your speed" as the locals do seem to make the most of the extra depth of the Bridgewater....🤣😂

When I worked at Preston main exchange, it had a massive Mirlees diesel. I was told it was a "submarine engine" it drove a half megawatt alternator so guess it was a big un.... you could hear and feel the rumble through the whole building when it started up. Can't remember what the donkey engine was.

If a small boat you could even try the slipway at the slipway pub... Scarisbrick Marina are usually quite accommodating and would suit if using your own trailer.

A lot of people didn't realise there were two versions of the SU. One for pushing from the rear as fitted to Austin 1100/1300s and one for pulling fitted in the engine bay (e.g Morris minor). Get them the wrong way and you get problems with fuel starvation..... as I found out when I "derestricted" an old post office moggy van... And of course what does SU stand for... in my experience s*dding useless....

No but then the charge this year is £15 a night. The cost of installing, maintaining and managing electricity meters will undoubtedly cost more than just charging folks a simple fee. Which remarkably sensibly seems to be what CRT are doing...

1/8 NPT is a common size but there are metric sizes (e.g M10). So unless someone can tell you or you can find out (see if you can find the part number for the existing switch and Google away) then I think you will have to take it out and measure the thread. You could buy a gauge and sender and then compare the known thread on the new sender with what you have. There are loads of adaptors and t pieces for the common sizes available for not too much money from flea Bay and similar sites. HTH

Both fair points. I personally think the 'dangers' of boat 12v systems are somewhat over stated and belive in the kiss principle. Why would I introduce some dodgey chinese consumer electronics built to the cheapest possible standards ? No thanks. I've already got enough in the router as it is 🤪 My choice and I'm happy with it. Maybe I won't be if there a puff of smoke from my router when I start the engine.... I'm just giving an alternative view not saying there is anything wrong with using some sort of stabilised PSU, just that it's not mandatory.... its a personal choice.

I think you have misunderstood. Floating floor just means it's not fixed to the subfloor all the bits in this case are glued together. It's not actually floating on water or anything so there won't be any bits "rattling around" although as is good practice there should be allowance made for expansion at the edges and around anything fixed (eg pipes)

I would do it as a "floating floor" glue the pieces together but don't fix them to the sub floor. I'm assuming it's not one of click together type laminates. I replaced my carpet with a laminate floor and used a laminate floor foam underlay from screwfix under the laminate. Think it was 2or 3mm and allowed for any imperfections in the subfloor. It's a bugger flooring in a boat as everything a has a curve I had to find the centre line and work out to each side.

And I bet everything is OK too Coat 😁

Yes I keep saying I will whip the cover off the who are we and see if it looks like there is any regulation on the input.

Just connect direct to a convenient 12v socket. Mines been running like that for over a year. By the time you get a bit of volt drop on the typical undersized boat wiring it will be fine. In my experience anyway.

just bear in mind that if you go to a scrapyard/recyclers they can't pay you in cash any more unless you are one of those charming romany folk so will either give you a cheque or do a bacs transfer into your account. ETA - don't think matters what the metal is - I've taken several mixed loads of copper, batteries, brass, ferrous and its all been paid by BACS.

Actually I took it in to good starter alternator place, a chap who specialises in CAV, he tried the starter and it did nothing at all, he reckoned it wasn't unusual for something I can't remember to disintegrate and it's cheaper to replace rhe whole unit he said. At the time, a good few years ago he quoted me about 90 quid for a replacement. One day I may get around to taking it to bits to see what's up with it....

Here's a picture of my old lpsw4 starter. Sadly a knacker but if yours is like this then the solenoid is part of it. This for a standard earth return marine build 47. I'm sure a search using the part numbers will throw up lots of suppliers at lots of prices...

I think its a mix but probably aimed at folks in the market for a new build. Last year there was stand offering some sort of remote monitoring system for boats. It was quite good but expensive and basically a few off the shelf bits on a box. When I questioned the bod on the stand he said yeah were selling to people too stupid to do it themselves.... just saying...

Suspect the starter and solenoid are a combined unit, you won't be able to buy the solenoid on its own. It's a fairly standard "denso" unit. I would check all your connections especially the high current ones on the starter. I had a similar issue which turned out to be a loose connection on the starter battery lead. It's easy for a shaved gorilla to over tighten the nut and strip the thread. Resulting in an intermittent connection. Depending on the which build you have there might be a plastic box on the side of the engine with some relays in and a multiway connector on the side which can work loose and cause problems.

yes most of the network operators are switching off 3G as quickly as possible largely to reduce their (huge) electricity bills and no doubt reduce other running costs / free up spectrum I've been surprised where I've picked up 5G outside big cities.