jonathanA

I know they cost a bit more but I would look at replacing the fuses with circuit breakers. I can't understand why folks would want to have to faff about with screwdrivers and trying to find new fuses instead of simply pressing the button. Especially on a wet windy dark winters evening... I also think it's too easy to shove any old fuse in or "silver paper" the old one to get things working and then it's forgotten about until something sets on fire.... But appreciate its more cost.... and you need to size the breakers....

Red and black would be more normal than red and green. But better than using black everywhere with a bit of red tape stuck on it. I'd say 10 or 16mm would be fine to your distribution board assuming its not too far from the batts. 16 would be better and for a short length not that much more money.

As it has been stripped out has it been OVER plated or RE-plated ? Will make a big difference to the amount of ballast needed.

yes FUSE as opposed to 'Reset' or 10A that a trip would typically have on it. I was 95% sure these contained a glass fuse, but 60 secs on google made me 100% sure. I think Ianws has it bang on. I didn't think speculation and guesses were too helpful TBH !

For goodness sake... the front cover labelled fuse will pop out /open and there is a glass fuse underneath. Simple as... They aren't circuit breakers which would be far better imo.

yes but if you then feed the 55C water into an instantaneous water heater.... so the answer is don't do it or as TB says ensure there is valve to control what happens. i have a vague recollection that for showers and hand wash sinks in communal facilities at things like campsites and changing rooms the max hot tap water temp is supposed to be something like 34C.

The pinkish bits make me think there is something wrong with the vactan you have. I always have to give my bottle a good shake before using. Be interesting to hear what the manufacturer says. Did you buy it direct or could it have been sat on a shelf at some distributor ?

I prefer the genuine Wago version mainly because of the wago accessories like junction boxes, they are very good. I agree with what Iand says about them and various versions are widely used these days and certainly Wago can be regarded as "maintenance free" (in specific situations) For boat use many are limited to a max of 2.5 or 4mm2 conductors so that can be an issue. In terms of iso rcd and all that bollox then a friend of mine used to say rules are for the observance of idiots and the guidance of the wise. I much prefer to understand the reasoning behind a rule or requirement.

Not quite as I'm talking about a business boating arrangement, similar to Cheshire cats club mooring arrangement. Whilst I'm a fairly good negotiator if they had refused to renew I'd have been stuffed or asked for say 25% I'd probably would have had to pay it... I did manage to get a small reduction and a 5 year term which suited me. Walking away was not an option for me although they didn't know that.

@Cheshire cat does the lease say it will increase according to local rates ? My arrangement with CRT has annual price rise based on CPI. Which they said was a standard clause when I tried to get a fixed cost for a 5 Yr term. Although they did stiff me with a 14% increase when I renewed it... I do think they make it up based on what they can get away with...

I had Amtrim make me some cushions for my dinette. Not cheap but a proper job. They are based in the northwest and not sure how far they will travel.

Yep just had a quick look at an MK sentry MCB in my spares box and it's exactly as you say. I could find this older Hager mcb which could cause a bit of confusion if trying use the bit under the screw. The box style clsmpnis down at the bottom No slur intended. Wonder if the MK terminal has a minimum size. I've seen that occasionally but not on domestic stuff. ?

Wot MP said. I can't understand the issue with bootlace ferrules other than user error I'm afraid. Wrong size ferrules or incorrect tooling. Easiest to use are the insulated versions, get the right size and use the terminal to clamp the ferrules to the conductors. Job done. (If you don't have a proper ferrule crimping tool) Some types of the uninsulated ferrules are OK to be Lightly soldered.

If you have the not inconsiderable amount of money to fit out a sail away you might be better putting that money to a newer more standard boat costing a bit more . Otherwise I wouldn't waste money on a full survey that just going to tell you largely what you already know, just get a hull survey so you know its not going to sink immediately and can get fully comp insurance.

I would GUESS they are 3/4 BSP, might have been easier to adapt 3/4 BSP to 28mm maybe. I'd leave them well alone if they are, as they have probably been there since the cauliflower was new and trying to get them off now could do more harm than good. plenty of 3/4 BSP to hose tails if you are connecting directly to hose or easy to convert to 15mm polypipe/speedfit/copper etc. is the "cold in" not the connection on the other side with a bit of a plastic fitting still on it ? what you have labelled cold in is a drain off.

are we looking at photos of two sides of the calorifier ? in which case it looks like a two coil unit (engine plus central heating or stove back boiler). It does look like 'coil 2' might be written in biro near one of the connections in the first picture. Cold inlet on one side and drain off on the other ? Anyway if you do as Tony suggests that should clarify whats what.

It's a lister "canalstar" not one of the older air cooled dumper truck engines that others may be thinking off. Very good engines but crucial that the oil is changed regularly. Not sure when lister stopped supplying them but it would be well into this century.

FWIW, looking at the pics in your original post I think you are doing the right thing.. I did the same on my 19 foot cruiser. Electrics were very basic but still a rats nest and disaster waiting to happen. If that is the solar controller sitting on top of rhe battery then I'd chuck that in the bin and buy a victron smartsolar. Not worth wasting your money on any thing else. Victron just work simple as. (Assuming the solar panels are reasonably decent. )

Google or eBay. Flue Rose or rosette. Split ones may be easier to fit. You may need one for an angled flue if its not "straight" thru.

Me neither, but Alan MacNaughton is the name I've heard taking over from Dan... I need to book in for a blacking so no doubt that will shed some light on things..

Name and shame @haggis!!

Ive also heard they have bought Scarisbrick marina but haven't seen anything to confirm if Collingwood are the new owners.

Don't laugh.... just an off The wall thought given the age of this carb.... Is the float metal ? Does it have a pin hole leak in it so maybe its filling with petrol slightly. Had that happen to an old Honda genny and it took me ages to realise as when ever it spewed petrol out and spluttered to a stop it languished in the workshop waiting for a roundtuit. So by the time I stripped the carb everything was dry. If the float is metal just try shaking it and see if it rattles or put in a bowl of water and look for bubbles. Apologies if this is nonsense and/or not relevant to your situation.

Indeed and the better waste tank senders have a cage round them to prevent cling ons interfering with the "float"