ridders

my opinion would be you don't have to interrupt the mains circuit to fit a plug, if you fit a fused spur would a diy er have the gear and knowledge to do the required testing (continuity and earth resistance) afterwards. The main reason for fitting a fused spur normally would be for a 3kw immersion heater, as this would draw more than 13a for an extended time and overload the plug (if you only had the nominal 230v available) 3000w divided by 230v =13.04 amps, and starting current will be higher when the element is cold. If a professional was being hired, the fused spur may well be better as blackrose said, but for a diy job the plug is a "no brainer" for me cheers paul

hi martin, 1kw is only drawing 4 amps, so a plug would be fine cheers paul eta - there's no switch safer than a removed plug when you're not using it

hi blackrose does the system have a header tank?

a small inverter will easily run this and is so handy for other stuff, charging phones, running soldering irons, charging cordless tools, toothbrushes etc, the cheapest ones from argos or similar would do for this.

we use dow corning "plumbaflue" on roof seals, very flexible but red so i don't know if that would do- just found the black at screwfix: http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=plumbaflue&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CFwQgwgwAw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.screwfix.com%2Fp%2Fgeocel-trade-mate-plumba-flue-silicone-black-310ml%2F66373%3Fcm_mmc%3DGoogleBase-_-Datafeed-_-Sealants%2520and%2520Adhesives-_-Geocel%2520Trade%2520Mate%2520Plumba%2520Flue%2520Silicone%2520Black%2520310ml&ei=Zme-TuTYCMay8QPdy-2MBA&usg=AFQjCNGeDPbDJCLZiSLBC6npNJkKqq79AA

hi mine has started doing this as well, but only since i upgraded to ie9, so it must be a setting in that.if i find out what it is i'll post it here (unless someone else solves it for us first)

agreed its a ruggerini, unless it's a "rugged hinny" which would be a hard version of a cross between a horse and donkey, used to tow small boats and frighten rioters off the towpath!

http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=40081&st=0&gopid=727106entry727106 this thread on here is well written and i for one enjoyed it. The internet is filled with both good content and drivel, half the fun is separating the two paul

thanks for your report, it looks like a great cruise, i've only had a quick skim but i'll read the rest later paul

all good points above, if you could say what you're planning to use as a heat source it would be easier to give specific advice, a two pipe fully pumped system with thermostats and a divertor valve (or valves) can be far more efficient and give better output as it doesn't rely on convection through the rads, but using a solid fuel stove simple may be better. paul

flow and returns from a heat source (eg boiler to calorifier) would normally be 22, hot and cold water and radiator pipes would normally be 15 cheers paul

drop an email to soliftec, i'm sure they'll be able to help info@soliftec.com hope this helps paul

my local boatyard is a bit of a general scrap dealer as well, and when discussing these engines the non marinised versions are common in little tractors and streetsweeping machines, and normally sell in second hand working order for £100 per cylinder - if the present engine has the right marinising parts a lucky fella could do well! just a thought paul

[ A clumsy explanation perhaps, but I hope that helps you understand. Mike nope-very eloquently put mike

it's generally accepted that you would open a vent whilst cooking and probably be observant, where the fridge or water heater is on 24/7 with only the fixed ventilation to feed them, i do understand your question but the appliance manufacturers have already designed and tested their appliances which is why some need a flue. a room sealed cooker would be better as well but hardly practical - but here's my question what possible benefit could be gained from running a flued appliance without a flue-it's just stupidity

best answer i can give would be all gas appliances should be fitted in accordance with the manufacturers instructions, any required flues should be fitted to the instructions and tested, and adequate ventilation must be supplied.supply pipework to any appliance must be correctly sized so as not to give lower gas pressure than required to burn correctly. appliances must be installed and commissioned by those competent to do so, and maintained regularly the main point for me with a gas fridge is that you don't want fumes recirculating through the burner, as that will produce carbon monoxide, which is why the manufacturer supplies a flue. If they don't need one the instructions for that model will say so. sorry if this sounds arsy, but its not something to mess with (and installations contravening the instructions would invalidate your insurance when something does happen) paul

maybe you should read your own signature sue some people have smoked heavily for 50 years and survived,doesn't mean it's clever though!

icom m411 is mine, and i was f*****g glad it was a good one when i needed the lifeboat off peterhead in a 3 metre swell! The rya course is 1 day and pretty straightforward, it also covers the basics of gmdss and dsc,i would buy a dsc radio i was comfortable with, and take it with me to the next boat. Secondhand handhelds may not be too good an idea- i'd be worried they were being sold because the batteries were duff I was looking at a handheld in the chandlers a few months ago, and i'm sure it was only about £50 can't remember the brand though edited to add: found it! http://www.marinemegastore.com/product.asp?pf_id=MAR_HH125VPEU&src=GBASE&gb_exvat=1

most caravan dealers can order a replacement flue kit, they just need to be cut to length, i think the electrolux ones are about £30 ish also you can duct a low level vent to the bottom below the fridge hope this helps paul

i love baking bread by hand - it's the only time my hands are clean anyone want some? eta screwfix do whole boxes of circlips for £11 - don't know if you're size is in though http://www.screwfix.com/p/circlips-steel-self-colour-350pcs/17113

hi, i agree with the others, a sliding fit or tighter will be fine - although the relevant manufacturers would tell you to use all matched stuff, it doesn't really matter as all the outside diameters are matched to copper pipe sizes, so you can interchange brands of fittings as well (i've air tested various combinations to 10 bar and they've all been ok) the main thing with these fittings is to make sure they are fully inserted past the o ring or they'll leak paul

thanks - i didn't know it was back on, and i've only seen about 10 minutes. Was there just one programme of this? thanks paul

he/she looks about to speak, maybe orders for mooring?

what an absolute beauty nigel, my better half's all time favourite!