Scholar Gypsy

I would agree with the general point you make. It is I think worth noting (and to add to the confusion) that there are local variations to sound signals. The document you posted is I think from the BW/C&RT Thames tideway guidance, and a few of the signals there are not in COLREGs themselves (4+1, 4+2, and long+2 shorts). See the local PLA byelaws here. From the thread on navigation lights on a pair of narrow boats, this appears to be the relevant byelaw for canals? (rule 12). Rule 12(3)© could cover the situation described, though I would have to say that the percentage of steerers who would know what such a sound signal meant would be quite low. I wonder if a single long blast might be best?

Dear Richard Many thanks - I take the point re fuses on the dials etc: any shorts on the much longer "downstream" cable runs will lead to false readings (eg the temperature alarm triggering when it shouldn't) rather than a risk of fire/melting etc. What you say on strapping applies if the isolators are on the +ve side, of course: with the isolator on the neg side there is a theoretical risk of frayed insulation on the neg cable for "always on" equipment touching the hull, which could be interesting if you tried to start the engine with the (negative) isolator turned off. For some reason I had it in my mind that the Smartgauge instructions recommended a fuse on both pos and neg cables, for this reason. But on checking I see that is not the case: one less thing to do. However the instructions for my VHF radio do reccomend double fuses - with a diagram showing the wires connected directly to the battery posts ...

Thanks very much - all very helpful. Moving to two isolators on the positive side may be my project for next winter - there would be quite a bit of cabling to replace to reach the sensible location for the new isolators. I have been pondering these issues over the last few days, since I finally got around to putting this together, 20 years after installation. In particular I do need to add a fuse to the negative side of the Smartgauge circuit - that's the only item left on when the boat is unattended. It also seems rather odd that the various gauges and dials are not fused at all, while (for example) the fuel pump is. On the radiator pump - you are right. Out of sight, there is a three way switch for the radiator pump - off, on (for testing), and auto (on when the engine is running). The engine charge current drops to nil after about five minutes of running.

And here is the wiring diagram (PDF version, produced in powerpoint). A bit more to do on: the connections to the Adverc (I have the manual); the large number of wires attached to the alternator - linked to previous point; the various gauges, sensors and alarms, not least as a lot of the wires behind the panel seem to have no useful function - but maybe the switches are supposed to light up in the dark, if so then I have a bit more work to do; working out exactly which wires go through the five connectors on the main wiring loom. Some guesswork so far. but it might be helpful to others trying to understand how boat electrics work. I think what I have is a fairly standard/typical set up, though there are some personal additions over the years!

Will this do? Sorry I can't seem to find a photo with charts in use. This started out as a project to make a bracket to hold the speaker secure, but as you can see a bit of scope creep then occured ... PS the photo towards the end of this heroic posting shows another way to solve the problem. Also some nice photos of buoys of various types

I am not sure I would personally agree with the conclusion reached here, but of course that's rather irrelevant. The first sentence is certainly true. Here's another personal opinion: for me, the test for whether C&RT should take over the managment of this navgation hinges on whether they can find a way to make more moorings available, and get the other facilities improved (a bit). That is of course much harder on a river than a canal, given the land ownership issues, but the work of GOBA (a rather larger number of boats, I think?) offers an interesting model. I say this because in my experience the locks (brickwork, gates, guillotines, paddles, landing stages) on the Nene are in a very good and easy to operate state - they have to be to survive the floods. It would be nice if some of the bridges could be raised a bit, and there is still a shoal at Awalton, but the focus should I think be on some of the ancillary services that need the most improvement.

Just to confirm, the bottom lock at Braunston (Wharf Narrowboats I think it is called) does stock it. S

Wikipedia suggests Mnemonics Now Erase Man's Oldest Nemesis, Insufficient Cerebral Storage This one may be useful in the rare threads about toilets on this forum: Dashing In A Rush, Running Harder Or Else Accident! and this visual mnemonic is essential for anyone who wants to know how an alternator works.

In addition to the points made above, it is worth noting: * the ordinal marks, when you pass to the north of (two arrows pointing upwards), to the south (two pointing down), to the west (downward pointing over upward pointing - Waist for West, though I have to say my waist doesn't look much like this) and east (upward pointing over downward pointing, by a process of elimination) * I remember the rule of the road for crossing boats in open water by asking "Can I see their red navigation light?" If so then - subject to other rules in Colregs - they have right of way. If I can see their green nav light, then I have right of way (provided they can manouvre etc).

12 May: Thrapston water point now operational again. [sorry the system seems to not allow me to re-edit the original post].

Well I took the multi-way connectors to pieces yesterday, all five of them, gave them a good clean with WD40, and found one spade clip that had worked half-loose. All seems to work fine now, and I am now half way to being able to produce a decent wiring diagram. The hour-meter has been the most erratic over the last couple of weeks. It was interesting to finally work out which circuits are fused (fuel pump, horn etc) and which are not (engine start and stop solenoids, oil and water temp gauges.)

See this earlier thread. In the main wash makes the moored boat bounce up and down a bit, but is unlikely to pull the pins out, while the hydraulic effect is more likely to pull the pins out (if the moored boat is allowed to build up momentum - see comments about springs etc). So if NC and a deep draught narrowboat go past a mooring at the same speed, the latter will have more impact on the moored boat.

Alternatively you could visit one of the big electrically powered locks near you in the North East, or a lift/swingbridge (with barriers and traffic lights etc), wait for a boat to arrive, and have a rather more enjoyable experience to test that your key works ...

On the Nene, working downstream, here is a selection. In addition Woodford and Wadenhoe look good but I have never managed to moor. I tried to get to Nassington but got stuck in the mud and ended up anchoring (for lunch) in the backwater below Yarwell lock. More photos of the trip in my blog. * against the railings in Northampton, just above Beckett Park lock. Might be a bit noisy * the pontoon a couple of hundred yards below that lock * the pontoon above Weston Favell lock. A lovely spot, but slightly noisy as the A45 is not far away. (photo 1 below) * visitor moorings at Billing Aquadrome. Lots of people and boats, but friendly and good facilities (I emptied the Elsan here recently) * Wellingborough. Good shopping. Noisy mill opposite, but some people don't mind that. Water and Elsan * Irthlingborough, above the lock. Lots of good moorings, NB no facilities any more (Imrays is wrong!) * Thrapston Bridge (photo 2). Water. (9th May 2014: out of order) * below Islip lock * Ashton lock, nr Oundle, in the backwater above the lock * Fotheringay (photo 3). My favourite water point on the system! * Wansford railway bridge (pontoon) * Ferry Meadow park, Peterborough

"Board". - the formal name of BW was "British Waterways Board" (Transport Act 1962 - see here). It replaced the British Transport Commission, created in 1948 which inter alia made films and sold holidays (it owned Thomas Cook!).

yes - looks like the lower wing wall? C&RT email copied below. Notice AlertOxford Canal Starts At: Lock 8, Napton Bottom Lock Ends At: Lock 14, Adkins Lock Up Stream Winding Hole: Engine Arm Down Stream Winding Hole: North of Lock 8 Monday 5 May 2014 15:00 until further notice Type: Navigation Closure Reason: Structure failure Original message:Due to structural failure of the approach wall at Lock 10, Napton Lock 8 to Atkins Lock 14 will be closed until further notice. Our engineering team will assess the cause failure as soon as possible and further information will follow, as soon as it is available. You can view this notice and its map online here: http://canalrivertrust.org.uk/notice/940/napton-lock-8-to-atkins-lock-14-oxford-canal You can find all notices at the url below: http://canalrivertrust.org.uk/notices

I am sorry to hear you have worms in your toilet. Another advantage of a porta potti / cassette is that you can empty down them a standard domestic sewer inspection hatch. I have done this a few times (after asking, of course).

In general I agree, but see the debate on this thread about Ouse keys (which are a type of windlass, not a key).

... but nobody has yet mentioned the different Yale key you need for the Middle Level, nor I think the Abloy key you need for the Nene and the Great Ouse.

On the radio question, the RYA website describes the relevant course (short range certificate) and has a link listing local training providers (and those who provide online training). VHF is required(*) on the tidal Thames, and is very useful on eg Tidal Trent, Aire & Calder. On ordinary canals you will struggle to find anyone to talk to! (* strictly speaking you only need it if your boat is 45 feet or more, and you want to go below Brentford)

Thanks to Alan & Tony for their comments, which should help me next weekend. I did have the situation (just before crossing from Salters Lode to Denver Sluice) where the engine started but the water & oil gauges did not work, and the alternator produced nil amps. A gentle tap on the panel brought it all back to life. My rev counter has been stuck on 1,200 for about 15 years - although the integral hour meter works well - so I might get to fix that as well....

Here's a map. My understanding is that they are not yet open to public navigation.

Ah, on my boat the starter neg cable does go back to the battery, rather than via the chassis/hull. I should have said that if you are going to have two isolators rather than one then you can put them on the pos side of the battery.

One could have one isolator for the starter (and other related engine stuff eg heaters, starter solenoid, alternator circuit), and another for the domestic supply circuits, but I am not quite sure what the advantage would be.