Alan de Enfield

The manufacturer quotes 10.6Lpm, but it gets a little wearing when you are criticised for correcting posts or providing unasked for information - just 'go with the flow' (see what I did there) and answer the question asked without suplementary information. I'm sure the OP misread 2.8USGPM as 28USGPM

Is the pump running ? (electrics getting thru ?) Is there water in your tank ? Is the stop-tap open ? Did you remove any 'end plugs' when connecting the pipes ? 28USGPM = 28 US gallons flow per minute (A US gallon is smaller than the UK gallon due to barrel shrinkage) 28 USG = 23 Imperial (UK) gallons.

Is that from the white horses ?

A simple toggle switch (Ebay ~£1) in the power supply line ? Toggle Switch, Panel Mount, On Off, Latching, 12V DC, 20A - Edit to add : Ensure any switch you get is a 12v DC one NOT a 230v AC switch as the AC ones do not play well with DC and the contacts can arc.

I wouldn't plan on doing it before April / May unless you can find a heated dry dock for a couple of weeks - one week to get it up to temperature and one week to do the job. if using 'Blacking' the steel needs to be warm (above the dew point) otherwise you are painting on top of 'water' and it will not stick. Once the air temperature is consistently above about 8 degrees, night & day (more is better) then you can consider doing it outside.

As Busby used to say "its good to talk", these days so many people think if they cannot find it on the internet it doesn't exist. My Kids almost never make telephone calls, they just 'text', when asked why, the answer tends to be, "if there is ever a problem with something, I have the written evidence of what was 'said'", apparently you dont need to have a physical conversation that is just 'talking, socialising and covering various things' its a waste of time - what a society we now live in.

"Roughly" the same as the water temperature (probably between 5 degrees in the Winter and 15 degrees in the Summer).

Landlords - What are your gas safety responsibilities? - Gas Safe Register What are your landlord responsibilities for gas safety? The Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998 outline your duties as a landlord to make sure all gas appliances, fittings, chimneys and flues are safe and working efficiently. If you’re letting a property with gas appliances installed, you’ve got three main legal responsibilities: 1. Gas safety checks To ensure your tenants’ safety, all gas appliances and flues need to undergo an annual gas safety check - and always by a Gas Safe registered engineer. Once this has been done, you’ll be given a Landlord Gas Safety Record or Gas Safety certificate with details of all the checks that were carried out. It can also be referred to as a CP12 certificate. You can arrange for a gas safety check to be carried out any time from 10-12 months after the last check, without affecting the original check expiry date. If it’s less than 10 or more than 12 months after the last check, you’ll end up with a new deadline date - 12 months from the most recent check. Appliances owned by your tenants aren’t your responsibility - although it’s still up to you to ensure the safety of any connecting flues, unless they’re solely connected to the tenants’ appliance. 2. Gas Safety Record Following the annual gas safety check and receipt of your Landlord Gas Safety Record, you’ll need to provide a record of this check to your tenants. By law, a copy of your Landlord Gas Safety Record should be given to your current tenants within 28 days of the gas safety check - and for new tenants, you’ll need to provide this at the start of their tenancy. For rental periods of less than 28 days, just make sure you’ve clearly displayed a copy of your record within the property. You’ll need to keep copies of this gas safety check record until a further two checks have been carried out.. 3. Maintenance You’ll need to make sure that all gas pipework, appliances, chimneys and flues are kept in safe condition. Check the gas appliances’ manufacturer guidelines to find out how often a service is recommended. If you haven’t got access to these, we’d recommend an annual service - unless your Gas Safe registered engineer suggests otherwise. Installation pipework isn’t covered by the annual gas safety check, but both we and the HSE recommend that when you request a safety check, you ask your Gas Safe registered engineer to: Test for tightness on the whole gas system, including installation pipework Visually examine the pipework (so far as is reasonably practicable) There are no formal requirements for you to keep maintenance records, but you’ll need to be able to show that you have regularly maintained the pipework, appliances and flues and completed required repairs.

C&RT state that a hire boat is required to have a 'Gas safe Certificate' it is not a case of good practice / good idea. We have gas certificates for caravans (I suppose they are similar to boats) and basically it consists of then checking that 'whatever gas system there is installed', is safe and compliant with the GSIUR regs. If, for example, it was an all-electric boat I'm sure a gas-certificate would not be either applicable or required and, like the BSS, they can only test what the boat is fitted with.

Or, as happened this Summer, the outlet pipe from the pump comes 'adrift' within seconds you have 1000 litres+ (and increasing rapidly) of water in the bilges and within a couple of minutes the engine is a mass of steam and will not survive much longer.

It what is quoted for my Johnson 1" engine cooling 'fresh water' pump. The OP has picked it up from there, althoughhe asked for details on 'bigger Lpm pumps - I did explain it is a bit bigger engine that his. It is rated at 2100 gallons an hour / 35 gallons per minute / 158 litres per minute, at 3000rpm. Edit to add flow rate graph.

C&RT say you must have a "gas safe" certificate, and have previously called it a 'landlords certificate' as the requirements for renting a boat are apparently the same as renting a house. Maybe @MtB can elucidate further.

There are one or two mooring providers on the Witham at Dogdyke and Chapel Hill (but they are a bit 'ramshackle'), there is of course the marina itself in Boston. There are proposals for a new canal and marina near Woodhall Spa, and another Marina at Cherry Willingham (both of these developments have 'gone quiet' for the last couple of years, maybe down to Covid ?) Cherry Willingham marina with 155 homes set for approval (thelincolnite.co.uk) C&RT moorings at Bardney Lock, Moorings in Brayford Pool (Centre of Lincoln), Moorings / marina at Burton Waters and Moorings at Torksey (above the Lock) From Boston the only other direction of Travel is 'out to sea' which is not an easy option due to the ever shifting sands, tides etc. A pilot is oft used for canal boats leaving Boston.

BAD BAD BAD There are all sorts of legal requirements and the safety requirements for a 'hire boat' are very much higher than for a private boat (it can even be difficult for a private boat to meet all of the requirements) You will need : Commercial hire boat insurance An enhanced boat safety certificate Landlords gas and electric certificates Somewhere to moor the boat (that allows hire boat operations) etc etc There are a number of pages on the Canal & River Trust website that explain the requirements, here is one for a starter : New licence introduced for boat renting | Canal & River Trust (canalrivertrust.org.uk) 32539-canal-and-river-trust-introduces-new-licence-for-boat-renting.pdf (canalrivertrust.org.uk) You may also need licences from other navigation authorities depending on where you plan to operate from. Edit to add : Tony's reply was not on view when I started to reply. I do not know why that happens, but we agree its not a good idea.

Mine has a gear-wheel & actually connects to the drive for the air brake compressor. You can see from the drawing that it has a tapered shaft to which any manner of 'drive' options can be fitted (Gear wheel, pulley, PTO shaft fitting etc etc) The Triangular lobed bracket gives you a menas of mounting it, but I have seen ones with a flat "L" bracket which attaches to the pump, and then mounts flat onto the engine and is then pulley driven. They are all the same pump (F7B) but the added "-?" is the fitting/drive method. MIne is "-9", the foot mounted one is "-8" The F7B-8 has fixing feet and can have a pulley mounted :

How much do you need ? I've recently bought an electric pump yo use as a 'roving bilge pump' which is around 35-45 litres per minutre depending on head. 12V PORTABLE ELECTRIC FUEL DIESEL FLUIDS TRANSFER PUMP CLIP ON BATTERY | eBay Problem is that it draws 10 amps, so you'll need an extra battery, just for the pump, and obviously a means of putting (say) 60Ah per day back in (5 hours @ 10amps + inefficiencies)

If you get a Poor-Cod, dont go Pouting about it.

Use the Whitebait and you are bound to hook one - just Cod ing

And they work reasonably well 'at sea'. Some are even reversible, stand them upright when anchored and you have a wind generator, turn them upside down and you have a water driven "Hydro" generator when cruising. DuoGen 3 – Wind & Water Generator – Hybrid Generator – Micro Wind Turbines manufactured by Eclectic Energy Ltd (eclectic-energy.co.uk) Assume the output at 7 knots is a typo ? Water mode performance 8amps at 6 knots (100W) 190 Ah per day 5 amps at 7 knots (150W) 275 Ah per day 16 amps at 8 knots (200W) 380 Ah per day Minimal loss of boat speed Easy to deploy and recover Proven in all sea states Can provide all the power for a yacht on passage Wind mode performance 5 amps at 10 knots wind speed (30W) 6 amps at 15 knots wind speed (75W) 11 amps at 20 knots wind speed (140W)

A duplicate of the one posted a few days ago.