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Pierre Thomas

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  • Boat Name
    Le Syballine
  • Boat Location
    Nérac

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  1. I'm quite liking the EWP150 with the controller. 10A is not too much for the engine alternator and the mounting would fit nicely with the existing plumbing.
  2. It's down as 107 lpm on the Johnson spec for the F7B-8, my existing one is 30lpm but does no more than trickle even though all the pipes are 1" bore. But as Cheesegas says, pressure make a difference It's very irritating, nowhere does it mention current or 12V power needed.
  3. Is only a small improvement on what I've got which is inadequate at 30plm, The one indicated in an earlier post is 158 lpm or a factor more. I can see alternator capacity being an issue with an electric pump. The other factor is that no matter how fast the engine goes (or how hard it is working) an electric pump is constant. It's an intercooler pump I'm using at the moment. I shall look through the Craig-Davies pumps.
  4. I’m struggling to find a 12V electric pump that will shift the same amount of water.
  5. The ‘ideal’ would be a foot mounted side port pump but they don’t seem to exist. The F7B Johnson or equivalent jabsco are both straight through in foot mounted versions.
  6. so. I’m trying to find a way to make a pump like Alan’s or the jabasco equivalent work but not getting very far. I thought there would be a PTO underneath the cover on the left but there’s not, or anywhere else I can find so my alternatives now are the skin tank(s) - probably around £1,500 - £2,000 with the docking or something off off one of these pulleys. Opinions please. It seems to me that putting a pulley on the water pump shaft risks causing side loading and wear but a third crankshaft pulley could also cause issues. What do you think?
  7. Just as a curiosity, why do boats never use radiator and fan cooling?
  8. That would be my favourite but it’s complicated 🙂 it’s a yanmar tn88 and although it has a PTO I can’t find a pump coupling to fit. I thought about a belt drive on the engine alternator and water pump but I’m worried about losing wrap. Lancing Marine suggested fitting the pump through a bracket on the face of existing pulley but a mounting bracket would be a bit tricky. I’ll post a diagram of the extra pulley arrangement tomorrow because I’d welcome an opinion on that. thanks to everyone so far.
  9. Did I say I say 3 ? It’s actually 30 ( though really it’s nearer 3 ) but I take your point.
  10. It’s currently a water intake to a heat exchanger and a separate circuit for the engine. With an electric Johnson intercooler pump. It’s barely adequate at canal cruising revs when the intake is clear. im also considering external tubing but i’d prefer no holes in the hull if possible Is in my post and, like the rest of the manual does not inspire confidence. it’s a yanmar tn88 marinised by Barrus
  11. The manual for my engine says I need a skin tank area of 1.25msq for 50hp it also says “the engine is unlikely to work hard on the canal” which seems like they’re saying this figure is too small. I presume that I can’t have too much cooling. My question is does it make a difference if the skin tank is inside or outside the hull? I guess yes but how much? And what would be a good size to allow for river work for 50 hp? or am I better off sticking with a heat exchanger - it’s struggling at the moment with an electic pump? A Johnson 3itres per minute (yeah, ha ha) My choices seem to be add an engine driven larger jabasco pump or rework the cooling system with a skin tank. There’s no straightforward way of adding a raw water pump so this solution is likely to involve some expensive engineering. Advice please?
  12. Hello. I can't find a version of the Barrus Shire 50 manual / wiring diagram that fits my engine. The one available on the net in several different versions doesn't match mine. It has no heater plugs which seems to be the main difference and the control panel has no lights. My problem which the wiring diagram might shed some light on is the stop solenoid stopped working, as in it wouldn't pull in to allow the engine to start. So I removed it to get me home. I tried wiring it up with the starter disconnected this afternoon and it worked once, the second time blew first its own fuse 15A and next time it worked once and then 2nd time with a 30A fuse it blew the starter solenoid 25A fuse which it is in series with. The wiring that I have has no relay for the stop solenoid but looks like its been modified. it has a wire going from the starter solenoid through an inline fuse to the pull in coil on the stop solenoid. My next step will be to replace this circuit with a relay energised by the starter solenoid trigger which I believe is the standard way of fitting a dual coil solenoid but I would like sight of the right wiring diagram for my engine. thanks for anyones help
  13. Hello. Does anyone know because they have done it whether the Candy 1042D will run on a Honda EU20i. I actually have the newer EU22i which is 1800 watts rather than 1600 but I’m guessing it’s more likely someone will have the older model. Thank you.
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