Alan de Enfield

The International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) standard IEC 61140:2016 defines as follows : Extra Low Voltage (ELV) DC is up to 120v (therefore 48v is classed as Extra Low Voltage rather than Low Voltage.) Low voltage DC is 120v to 1500v High voltage DC is above 1500v

Is KWh not a unit used by U-tubers (some might call them couch -potatoes).

A PUK code (Personal Unblocking Key) is used to protect your mobile SIM card. It is unique to your SIM card and serves as a safeguard against unauthorized use.

But, as many boaters have found out to their cost, if you have a 'European registered' system it does not work when you cross the Atlantic and get into the US satelites coverage area. You may even need to pay extra for 'roaming' on the same continent. If you leave your 'home continent' it will either not work &/or you have to register (and pay extra) for 'global roaming'. It is all very complex with no guarantees of service quality but - they do offer 'best effort' And, for boats, RVs etc : Roam only supports in-motion connectivity for those who can churn out $2,500 to purchase the flat high-performance dishy. And the dish itself won’t be installed by a Starlink representative, with the burden being on the customer. The 'roaming' registration gives you around 50% of the speeds of a fixed installation Starlink Roam Explained: What It Is & How Much It Costs (2025) But, as many boaters have found out to their cost, if you have a 'European registered' system it does not work when you cross the Atlantic and get into the US satelites coverage area. You may even need to pay extra for 'roaming' on the same continent. If you leave your 'home continent' it will either not work &/or you have to register (and pay extra) for 'global roaming'. It is all very complex with no guarantees of service quality but - they do offer 'best effort' And, for boats, RVs etc : Roam only supports in-motion connectivity for those who can churn out $2,500 to purchase the flat high-performance dishy. And the dish itself won’t be installed by a Starlink representative, with the burden being on the customer. The 'roaming' registration gives you around 50% of the speeds of a fixed installation Starlink Roam Explained: What It Is & How Much It Costs (2025) But, as many boaters have found out to their cost, if you have a 'European registered' system it does not work when you cross the Atlantic and get into the US satelites coverage area. You may even need to pay extra for 'roaming' on the same continent. If you leave your 'home continent' it will either not work &/or you have to register (and pay extra) for 'global roaming'. It is all very complex with no guarantees of service quality but - they do offer 'best effort' And, for boats, RVs etc : Roam only supports in-motion connectivity for those who can churn out $2,500 to purchase the flat high-performance dishy. And the dish itself won’t be installed by a Starlink representative, with the burden being on the customer. The 'roaming' registration gives you around 50% of the speeds of a fixed installation Starlink Roam Explained: What It Is & How Much It Costs (2025) EDITED - I HAVE REPORTED THIS POST FOR MULTIPLE POSTINGS AS FOLLOWS : Another repeated post, it did not grey out when I pressed 'send'. I was on the previous page when I typed the reply and the post went onto the next page.

I'd suggest that you should be OK to move once the lack of water has been resolved.

Rather than assuming your lighting system is 12v DC it may be advisable just to check first. No two boats are the same (even from the same manufacturer in the same week) and years of 'owner DIY' can give some very unusual installations.

That would suggest about 140 amps (per ring) being taken out of the batteries.

Paving 'flag stone', varnished wood trim and porcelain tiles. Porcelain tiles continue up the walls, mounted onto fireboard with air gap to the wall. Raised up off the the floor by about 6" to give storage for a tray of 'coal' sticks etc. Yes it is small - it is a 'Pipsqueak' 3Kw stove with the fireplace built into what was a wardrobe.

It's official - the EA announce the North West is a 'drought area' A drought has been declared in north-west England as reservoir levels dwindle. Hosepipe bans could follow, the Environment Agency said, though this is a matter for water companies, which have been directed to follow their drought plans. Much of the rest of the country is in prolonged dry status, which is the step before drought, and without significant rainfall more areas could follow the north-west. An Environment Agency spokesperson said: “The north-west of England has entered drought status due to low water levels in reservoirs and rivers.

I tried to sue a surveyor and failed. I got as far as employing a solicitor who notified the surveyor of our intentions. After reading the small print in the survey the Solicitor advised me not to proceed to court as I had absolutley no chance of winning, and, not only would I have to pay my own costs I would be paying the surveyors costs as well, which could well run into £10,000s The surveyors 'small print' typically states that the report is a 'general statement' on the condition of the boat, and he has not opened cupboards, lifted carpets or done anything requiring the use of tools. He is not responsible for any incorrect statements or for anything he has missed looking at. The survey is normally only valid for the moment of the survey (understandable, as someone could have come and cut all the gas pipes, or, drilled holes thru the hull the moment after he left the boat) The boat I bought on the strength of a 'good survey' required in excess of £25,000 work doing, which, at the end, came to about £60,000 to make it 'sea worthy' and usable.

The words good, cheap and boat cannot be used in the same sentence. Choose any 'two from three' and you'll be OK.

You miss the point entirely - if a battery is left in a partially discharged state (after use of a high demand such as a BT) then it will sulphate and capacity will be reduced. You correct that if a battery is left fully charged the batteries will be 'fine' (mine are typically left for 4 or 5 months over Winter) There are of course many 100s of 'home moorings' that do not have a power supply. And, many boaters who would not leave the electrics switched on if leaving the boat for some time.

But there is a (potentially) huge problem with that system. You go back to your home mooring after your holiday, its a bit windy and you use the BT to get you into your mooring, switch off the engine and the BT battery stops getting charged. The BT batteries then sit there for days/weeks partially discharged and sulphating. Or, As a legal minimum movement CCer (one day moving 13 days mooring) you get the same problem. as many boats will rely on solar to keep the domestics charged rather than running the engine. If you are moving every day 'ish. Then the suggested system would work.

You started a new thread titled "service" and when opened it was a duplicate of the thread on the scratch remover. A couple of minutes later you made another thread titled "service" and when opened it was a duplicate of the thread on the scratch remover.

You appear to have 3 threads running on this product -are you involved with the company ? I have reported the thread.

Apparently Teslas have been sold as being good 'wading' vehicles, owners have found otherwise Tesla CEO Elon Musk claimed that the Cybertruck could wade through rivers, lakes, and even calm seas during its launch, thanks to its water-resistant capabilities. However, reality struck differently. A Tesla Cybertruck owner recently drove their vehicle into a river to test its water-wading capabilities, as advertised. Unfortunately, the car sank, but the owner managed to escape safely. Emergency services had to employ specialized techniques to retrieve the submerged vehicle.

But in some places the depth is 'half a Swan' so it obviously varies as a Swan is much larger than a Duck.

No - just a quick sketch. Hopefully you get the meaning. If your breast rope is (say) 6 feet long, then the water level can drop , probably about 4 or 5 feet (right angle triangle - hypotenuse again) without tightening. It will initially get 'looser' as the water level drops.

Having spent many many years up and down the Trent, and to have boats with depth sounders I can be fairly confident in quoting the following for the depth of the MNC (main navigable channel) It varies between ~5 feet and ~26 feet. Both from Sawley to the River Soar, and from Meadow Lane to Gainsborough (obviously the tides affect the water depth after Cromwell Lock) C&RTs own dredging plans are to maintain the MNC, at 6 feet**, but like most of their plans, their good intentions are rarely achieved. ** 1.83mts Nottingham to Cromwell lock and 2.13 mts Cromwell Lock to Gainsborough My boat has 4' 6" to 5' draft depending on how much fuel i have in the tanks, and I have scraped the bootom a number of time whilst supposedly in the MNC For anchoring you need 3-4x the depth of water (say 25 feet) if using chain and 10x the depth of water if using rope. If using a combination of chain and rope you should use 7x the water depth. The more anchor rode you have 'out' the greater the scope and the better the anchor performs. so, with a scope of 3:1 you only get 50% of the anchors rated holding power. Another chart I don't know what anchor you plan to buy - but don't buy on price and don't buy a Danforth because someone you knao has one. Danforth anchors do not work. Here is a comment from a forum member trying to anchor his NB with a 25kg Danforth.

I'd not think your water levels alter by much more than +/- 12" (total of 2 feet) do they ? My boat can be subject to as much as 10-12 feet height change in 6 hours. The breast lines (bow and stern) are reasonably tight at high water, and as the boat drops the rope slackens & then tightens until low water. The breast line dont need to be particularly loose or tight as there is only a vertical movement, so the line can be much shorter than if the line was tiied off at 45 degrees (or more) to the boat (its simple trignometry - the hypotenuse - a long bow line - needs to have more length to allow for the height drop) The breast lines are simply to keep the boat into the bank and not to control the forward and backwads movement. The spring lines are the critical ones and they are the ones you should ensure you have on if you are away from the boat for a week or two. These are the lines that control the forward and back movement and allow for the drop in water level. Most boats in our marina have fairly loose breasts and springs and it is interesting to watch them - they automatically sit about 3 feet out from the wall and barely move when boats go past them. Another way to make the springs work better is to hang 56lb weights off them (about half way between boat-bollard and shore bollard/ring) this keeps the springs 'tight' at all water heights and acts as a shock absorber. As the boat is lifted the buoyancy of the boat lifts the line which in turn lifts the 56lb weight. Lumpy water / Tidal / Coastal mooring has a lot of transferable skills to the Canals

I can cite several - even some that have been discussed on the forum. Here is a post from a Surveyor (Expert Witness) who has been involved in 4 RCD court cases and in every case the builder 'lost' I'm getting bored with your arguments now - these have been going on for years and every time I have provided rebuttals. Go and read, absorb and rememeber the RCD / RCR requirements. You can then answer your own questions.

As I have posted the 2003 amendments were back dated to 1998. The fact that some manufacturers have fraudulenty signed off a boat as being compliant is nothing new - 100s- maybe 1000's of canal boats have been fraudulently signed off, which now the enforcement is being moved up a notch , are slowly coming to light - you only have to look at the last couple of years posts on the forum Strong points Boarding steps etc etc. I would be very surprised if Heidi's boat was fully compliant with the RCD or RCR - I don't believe that very many NBs are.

If they have been tested and evidence provided that they comply with the requirements then of course they can be used. Approval will be vaild for the models tested - and larger or smaller engines, even in the same family may require, testing and certification. In which case (assuming 'they' are prepared to take the word of a manufacturer with a vested interest and do not require an independent, approved, Surveyors report) then of course it will be allowed - it says so in the 2017 Act of Parliament. But, to use your example : A 'vintage look alike with false rivets' is hardly likely to get past the first visual check. Why are you getting your knickers in a knot ! (And, is the Rum Wench a true replica of a pre 1950s boat ?)

I believe they are called 'lug-bolts' (ala wheel lug bolts) various types available - I'm told it is the taper below the head that makes them 'lug bolts'