Another Smartgauge question.

[ROBDEN]

 

As the information ties up with other knowledge I have I am quite happy with it. I asked for it from the company for Rob's sake so that he is not having to believe forum experts

 

Also I have an educated guess as to what caused the problems, but waiting for Rob to confirm something

Been out but back now.

 

Thanks for the info' Graham but what do you need me to confirm?

 

Rob....

[Graham.m]

Been out but back now.

 

Thanks for the info' Graham but what do you need me to confirm?

 

Rob....

When was the sterling regulator installed?

[ROBDEN]

When was the sterling regulator installed?

Graham. Late to bed or up early?

 

I seem to be having a bit of a problem with internet signal at the moment so answers may be slow.

 

This one was fitted in late December but just replaced an earlier model that had been in use for about 5 years. Why?

 

Rob....

[nicknorman]

Graham. Late to bed or up early?

 

I seem to be having a bit of a problem with internet signal at the moment so answers may be slow.

 

This one was fitted in late December but just replaced an earlier model that had been in use for about 5 years. Why?

 

Rob....

Do you know what the maximum charging voltage was, with the old alternator controller?

[WotEver]

This one was fitted in late December...

So about a year ago?

[ROBDEN]

Do you know what the maximum charging voltage was, with the old alternator controller?

Same as this one 14.8 - 14.9v. That's with the sense(?) wire on to the batteries.

But putting the wire on one certain point (with a voltage drop) I could get it to 15.2v.

[Graham.m]

 

Morning all.

 

This mornings strange charging figures.

 

The PDAR is disconnected.

 

SG reads 12.2v. 60%.

 

Engine run at 1000 revs

 

Start. 14.05. @62amps. SG….60%

+20 minutes. 14.2 @47amps

+20 minutes. 14.25 @35amps

+20 minutes. 14.5 @10amps

+20 minutes. 14.5 @2amps SG….76%

+20 minutes. 14.5 @ jumping between 3 and 8amps. SG….80%.

 

 

 

Graham. Late to bed or up early?

 

I seem to be having a bit of a problem with internet signal at the moment so answers may be slow.

 

This one was fitted in late December but just replaced an earlier model that had been in use for about 5 years. Why?

 

Rob....

 

Looking at the voltages without the Sterling yesterday they did not exceed 14.5V. Now I am wondering why you changed the regulator and did you adjust the voltage on the regulator when you fitted it?

[ROBDEN]

 

 

Looking at the voltages without the Sterling yesterday they did not exceed 14.5V. Now I am wondering why you changed the regulator and did you adjust the voltage on the regulator when you fitted it?

It was a gift and was in better condition than mine.

Left the voltage as per 'open lead acid' as it supposed to be the fastest charging.

This how the original one was set and did well for over 4 years.

 

Using this setting for sealed batteries was brought up on a thread here, a couple of years.

It was thought by many on this forum that all would be well and indeed there are a few members that do run like this.

It served me well on the last set of batteries.

 

How time flies. Found the invoice for the batt's. Not 4 months ago but 8 months.

 

Now thinking of getting new batteries but haven't decided which to go for yet.

 

Rob....

[nicknorman]

 

Now thinking of getting new batteries but haven't decided which to go for yet.

 

Rob....

We've had 2 sets of ordinary wet leisure batteries on our boat. They both had very limited life and were what I would technically refer to as "rubbish". Not too surprising really as it seems this type of battery is effectively a rebadged starter battery.

 

We now have Trojan T105s and they are in a different league, definitely fit for purpose. I would never ever ever ever go back to ordinary leisure batteries! So that would be my recommendation.

[ROBDEN]

We've had 2 sets of ordinary wet leisure batteries on our boat. They both had very limited life and were what I would technically refer to as "rubbish". Not too surprising really as it seems this type of battery is effectively a rebadged starter battery.

 

We now have Trojan T105s and they are in a different league, definitely fit for purpose. I would never ever ever ever go back to ordinary leisure batteries! So that would be my recommendation.

Yeahbut. Thinking about them, I have the room but not sure I could meet their charging requirements. Ccing and no hook up.

[nicknorman]

Yeahbut. Thinking about them, I have the room but not sure I could meet their charging requirements. Ccing and no hook up.

The only difference in charging requirements is that they like a high finishing voltage. The 14.9 you get is just perfect. Like any batteries they don't like repeated undercharging. There are lots of folk who CC off grid with Trojans, DMR is one for example.

[ROBDEN]

The only difference in charging requirements is that they like a high finishing voltage. The 14.9 you get is just perfect. Like any batteries they don't like repeated undercharging. There are lots of folk who CC off grid with Trojans, DMR is one for example.

That's good to know. Thanks for that.

[dmr]

The only difference in charging requirements is that they like a high finishing voltage. The 14.9 you get is just perfect. Like any batteries they don't like repeated undercharging. There are lots of folk who CC off grid with Trojans, DMR is one for example.

 

You really do need to be able to charge at 14.8 (or even a little more) and you really do need to be able to equalise by some means.

Trojans will need topping up now and again and this could be as often as once every couple of months, so reasonable access is required.

If you can meet these requirements then Trojans appear to me to be excellent for an off grid liveaboard boat.

They will take a fair bit of abuse too; they can cope with a some sulphation and still recover with a good equalisation. This is handy if you don't want to do a long engine/generator run every week.

 

..............Dave.

[ROBDEN]

 

You really do need to be able to charge at 14.8 (or even a little more) and you really do need to be able to equalise by some means.

Trojans will need topping up now and again and this could be as often as once every couple of months, so reasonable access is required.

If you can meet these requirements then Trojans appear to me to be excellent for an off grid liveaboard boat.

They will take a fair bit of abuse too; they can cope with a some sulphation and still recover with a good equalisation. This is handy if you don't want to do a long engine/generator run every week.

 

..............Dave.

Thanks Dave.

I'm pretty sure I can trick the PDAR into giving out 15.5volts. Is that enough to equalise the batt's?

 

Rob....

[nicknorman]

Thanks Dave.

I'm pretty sure I can trick the PDAR into giving out 15.5volts. Is that enough to equalise the batt's?

 

Rob....

Yes 15.5 is fine but if you routinely take them up to 14.9 you shouldn't have to do it often if at all.

[bottle]

May I just drop this in.

 

!5.5v is needed at the batteries not the PDAR.

[ROBDEN]

May I just drop this in.

 

!5.5v is needed at the batteries not the PDAR.

Yes I know.

I have a cunning plan!

 

PDAR battery sense(?) wire connects to a point where there is a voltage drop of about 0.6 or 0.7.

It then reads it as only 14.2v and 'tells' the alternator to kick it up to 14.9v. When in fact at the batteries it was 14.8/9v and goes up to 15.5v.

 

Rob....

[WotEver]

Where is this 0.7V drop of which you speak?

[WotEver]

Where is this 0.7V drop of which you speak?

[bottle]

It was the mentioning of voltage drop. that enticed me in.

[WotEver]

It was so intruiging that I said it twice, apparently.

Edited December 9, 2015 by WotEver

[dmr]

15.5 works fine for me. Remember to check that there is no electrical gear on the boat that is going to get upset by this.

Not sure Nick is 100% correct. Getting up to 14.9 is not enough by itself. I usually charge at 14.9 or 15 in the winter and sulphation still sets in if I go a week or two without getting 100% charge (low tail current). It really is hard work keeping the batteries full over the winter.

I find I can go a month or two without equalisation and still recover with a good equalisation. We cruise extensively in the summer so only need to equalise in the winter so its maybe only 4 or 5 times each year?

[ROBDEN]

Where is this 0.7V drop of which you speak?

On the live side of an unused fuse holder, for a freezer.

[WotEver]

On the live side of an unused fuse holder, for a freezer.

If it's unused then why the drop?

 

Personally I'd just connect the sense wire via a diode - that would give the required 0.6-0.7V drop.

[nicknorman]

It would probably be better to insert a diode in the sense wire to get a better defined voltage drop.

 

Edit: There seems to be an echo!

15.5 works fine for me. Remember to check that there is no electrical gear on the boat that is going to get upset by this.

Not sure Nick is 100% correct. Getting up to 14.9 is not enough by itself. I usually charge at 14.9 or 15 in the winter and sulphation still sets in if I go a week or two without getting 100% charge (low tail current). It really is hard work keeping the batteries full over the winter.

I find I can go a month or two without equalisation and still recover with a good equalisation. We cruise extensively in the summer so only need to equalise in the winter so its maybe only 4 or 5 times each year?

 

OK yes I'll bow to your superior experience, and what I should have said was "14.9v with a low tail current". Of course it also depends on where you batteries are, if in a heated part of the boat its not such an issue but if in a cold place the voltages all have to be higher in winter.

Edited December 9, 2015 by nicknorman