12v socket making lights flash

[tommyleyland]

Hey guys and gals,

I'm sure it's something simple I've done wrong here but I've wired a 12v socket that has 3 cigarette style sockets and 2 usb sockets. I've tried wiring it in to two different connection points, where the lights are wired to and when I connect some things, especially my 12v laptop adapter, all the lights flash like a rave.

 

Does anyone have any suggestions? Do I need to wire something in between to stop the "surge" or am I being too simple with my wiring?

 

Thanks in advance.

[Paul C]

Could be a number of things - inadequate wiring thickness, dodgy connection(s), flat batteries, etc etc

 

Do you own a multimeter or have any way of measuring voltage?

[ditchcrawler]

Well you are probably tiring to drag another 10 amps out of you lighting circuit for a start, also you say you connected it to two points but give no indication what.

[Chewbacka]

I am guessing that they are LED lights?

If so it may be that the switch mode supply that powers the USB charge outlets or the laptop supply (12v in and I guess 19v out) is putting a lot of mush which is upsetting the LED driver circuit. I had this problem with a small circular flurescent light that used to make the LED lights near it to flash and overheat. I fixed it by getting rid of the flourescent light.

 

I also changed my LED power supply system and now it is fine.

[tommyleyland]

Could be a number of things - inadequate wiring thickness, dodgy connection(s), flat batteries, etc etc

 

Do you own a multimeter or have any way of measuring voltage?

 

It could be the wiring, I might get some tick wire and run it straight from the batteries with a fuse. I tried it whilst the engine was running and it was still flashing.

I have no multimeter but my solar charger gives me how many volts are left

 

 

 

Well you are probably tiring to drag another 10 amps out of you lighting circuit for a start, also you say you connected it to two points but give no indication what.

 

The wiring was already in place in the walls and roof with block connectors ready to wire in lights. I used one of them to run one of the LED lights and the 12v socket also.

Do you reckon it's a case of drawing too much power from something that's not meant for that purpose?

 

 

 

I am guessing that they are LED lights?

If so it may be that the switch mode supply that powers the USB charge outlets or the laptop supply (12v in and I guess 19v out) is putting a lot of mush which is upsetting the LED driver circuit. I had this problem with a small circular flurescent light that used to make the LED lights near it to flash and overheat. I fixed it by getting rid of the flourescent light.

 

I also changed my LED power supply system and now it is fine.

 

I have a very unsophisticated lighting system. 4 sets of LED string lights and 2 halogen lights for the kitchen.

I'm thinking connecting it straight to the battery might be the answer, is that what you mean?

[tommyleyland]

Ok so I did a quick test of quickly wiring the 12v socket directly to the battery and it definitely didn't do the "rave" effect although the 12v lighting did go very dim and some slight flashing (The battery level was down to 10.7amps so I cancelled the experiment)
I think with some decent wiring and connectors, it should do the job hopefully.

Would a regulator do anything to stop this effect? I'm not too clued up on what they even actually do but I've seen them come up in some forums.

[Paul C]

Ok so I did a quick test of quickly wiring the 12v socket directly to the battery and it definitely didn't do the "rave" effect although the 12v lighting did go very dim and some slight flashing (The battery level was down to 10.7amps so I cancelled the experiment)

I think with some decent wiring and connectors, it should do the job hopefully.

Would a regulator do anything to stop this effect? I'm not too clued up on what they even actually do but I've seen them come up in some forums.

 

I think you need to purchase a multimeter, so you can measure voltage drop, I am guessing the wiring is simply inadequate for the load and/or the batteries are knackered. If you have a multimeter you can check if the batteries are charging, and how well - although I suspect they are past their best here.

 

The lights going dim, with another (not massive) load, suggests the battery is knackered, or more extensive wiring issues.

 

I don't know what you mean with "battery level down to 10.7 amps" - amps are not the units used to measure battery state of charge - do you mean 10.7V? If so, then it confirms that the batteries are knackered. I remember reading another thread you have where you're having issues with the battery master switch, so this would explain it.

[Loafer]

 

I think you need to purchase a multimeter, so you can measure voltage drop, I am guessing the wiring is simply inadequate for the load and/or the batteries are knackered. If you have a multimeter you can check if the batteries are charging, and how well - although I suspect they are past their best here.

 

The lights going dim, with another (not massive) load, suggests the battery is knackered, or more extensive wiring issues.

 

I don't know what you mean with "battery level down to 10.7 amps" - amps are not the units used to measure battery state of charge - do you mean 10.7V? If so, then it confirms that the batteries are knackered. I remember reading another thread you have where you're having issues with the battery master switch, so this would explain it.

 

You seem to be quite tireless with your electrical advice! Hat off.

 

(ETA just tried to give you a greenie. Why don't you demigods accept Greenies?)

Edited November 17, 2015 by Loafer

[tommyleyland]

 

I think you need to purchase a multimeter, so you can measure voltage drop, I am guessing the wiring is simply inadequate for the load and/or the batteries are knackered. If you have a multimeter you can check if the batteries are charging, and how well - although I suspect they are past their best here.

 

The lights going dim, with another (not massive) load, suggests the battery is knackered, or more extensive wiring issues.

 

I don't know what you mean with "battery level down to 10.7 amps" - amps are not the units used to measure battery state of charge - do you mean 10.7V? If so, then it confirms that the batteries are knackered. I remember reading another thread you have where you're having issues with the battery master switch, so this would explain it.

 

Sorry I meant volts not amps.

I took the advice from a guy who restores batteries, which I'm starting to think wasn't great. I had 2 new 110amp 12v leisure batteries and connected 2 old ones to them as he said they were still good to go. I'm thinking this might be an issue and hopefully hasn't knackered the new batteries.

Could I still salvage the new batteries by disconnecting the 2 crappy ones or are they all now equally as nackered?

[Loafer]

 

Sorry I meant volts not amps.

I took the advice from a guy who restores batteries, which I'm starting to think wasn't great. I had 2 new 110amp 12v leisure batteries and connected 2 old ones to them as he said they were still good to go. I'm thinking this might be an issue and hopefully hasn't knackered the new batteries.

Could I still salvage the new batteries by disconnecting the 2 crappy ones or are they all now equally as nackered?

 

Depends how long the new ones have been 'brought down' by the old ones. How long have they been together?

 

I wouldn't trust a 'restored' battery.

 

Can you separate the pairs and use each pair normally from fully charged? You might see that the newer ones are still OK.

Edited November 17, 2015 by Loafer

[tommyleyland]

 

Depends how long the new ones have been 'brought down' by the old ones. How long have they been together?

 

I wouldn't trust a 'restored' battery.

 

Can you separate the pairs and use each pair normally from fully charged? You might see that the newer ones are still OK.

 

They've been together for 2-3 months, I can try disconnecting them tomorrow, charging the new ones back up and seeing how they get on. I'm making the transition on only using 12v due to running out of charge very quickly so maybe this is the issue.

 

I've not tried seperating used/old and using them seperately but I did use the new ones straight out of the box and they lasted 1-2 days without charge using 240v and 12v. I'd be lucky to see an hour nowadays.

[Loafer]

 

They've been together for 2-3 months, I can try disconnecting them tomorrow, charging the new ones back up and seeing how they get on. I'm making the transition on only using 12v due to running out of charge very quickly so maybe this is the issue.

 

I've not tried seperating used/old and using them seperately but I did use the new ones straight out of the box and they lasted 1-2 days without charge using 240v and 12v. I'd be lucky to see an hour nowadays.

 

Well don't let them get below 12 volts ever, if you can help it. Or 12.2 if there's no load.

 

Do you have any means of monitoring your voltage other than crawling into the battery bay? Voltmeter or battery monitor in your living area?

[Paul C]

I'd suggest that all your batteries are now knackered, and if it turns out one or two are okay, its a bonus. A full charge (equalisation charge, if you can) may revive them for a little while but they've probably lost most of their capacity now.

Edited November 17, 2015 by Paul C

[ditchcrawler]

How do you charge them, the first two days of use being put on without being fully charged and then connecting mains powered equipment which was probably high current wont have helped

[tommyleyland]

 

Well don't let them get below 12 volts ever, if you can help it. Or 12.2 if there's no load.

 

Do you have any means of monitoring your voltage other than crawling into the battery bay? Voltmeter or battery monitor in your living area?

 

Oh dear I thought they could go lower than that...

I don't have any means yet. I'm going to get a digital display in the living room to keep an eye on it.

 

 

I'd suggest that all your batteries are not knackered, and if it turns out one or two are okay, its a bonus. A full charge (equalisation charge, if you can) may revive them for a little while but they've probably lost most of their capacity now.

 

Hopefully they aren't knackered, I'll try removing the old ones, charging the new ones and keeping an eye on the level.

 

 

How do you charge them, the first two days of use being put on without being fully charged and then connecting mains powered equipment which was probably high current wont have helped

 

I charge them via the engine, I'm looking in to a generator as my solar panel is useless in the winter now. I have no hookup so it's never been charged that way since I've had the boat.

[ditchcrawler]

 

 

 

I charge them via the engine, I'm looking in to a generator as my solar panel is useless in the winter now. I have no hookup so it's never been charged that way since I've had the boat.

How long and how often?

[tommyleyland]

How long and how often?

 

Every day nowadays, 1-2 hours normally.

[ditchcrawler]

 

Every day nowadays, 1-2 hours normally.

You are probably going to need all day to get them up from where they are now. It takes me 3-4 hours every day when I am on the boat to full (best I can) recharge them.

[tommyleyland]

You are probably going to need all day to get them up from where they are now. It takes me 3-4 hours every day when I am on the boat to full (best I can) recharge them.

 

Do you charge from the engine? 3-4 hours is a lot! Does it not do your nut in?

[ditchcrawler]

 

Do you charge from the engine? 3-4 hours is a lot! Does it not do your nut in?

Yes from the engine, no it dosent do my nut in as I go cruising as I am not a live aboard. However we both still need to recharge those batteries somehow and you have no idea how baldly you have been recharging them since you have had them.

[Chewbacka]

 

Do you charge from the engine? 3-4 hours is a lot! Does it not do your nut in?

Have a read of this as I think your batteries are not being recharged. It takes a long time, say 8 to 10 hours to 100%

 

http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_the_lead_acid_battery

 

Also, and I appologise if you know this - but you should not discharge a lead acid battery more than about 50% because if you do it will not last long.

[tommyleyland]

Yes from the engine, no it dosent do my nut in as I go cruising as I am not a live aboard. However we both still need to recharge those batteries somehow and you have no idea how baldly you have been recharging them since you have had them.

 

Yes true, I'm not sure whether it's worth getting a generator to recharge these batteries as the engine is loud on my little boat.

[Loafer]

 

Yes true, I'm not sure whether it's worth getting a generator to recharge these batteries as the engine is loud on my little boat.

 

If you don't want loud engine running, then a small generator and battery charger would be an asset in the winter. And more solar panels.

 

The Battery University website is excellent, as is the Smartguage website. Lots to learn there, but the main thing is that if you live on board and use electricity, you have to pay for it somehow, it never comes free.

[tommyleyland]

Yeah I've got a 255w solar panel and I'll be investing in a nice Honda generator.

I've removed the old batteries, checked and cleaned all connections and wired the 12v socket directly to the battery with fuse and motorcycle rectifier to stop to much power breaking laptops and voila! No light pulsing

Now I'm charging them up all day.

[ditchcrawler]

Yeah I've got a 255w solar panel and I'll be investing in a nice Honda generator.

I've removed the old batteries, checked and cleaned all connections and wired the 12v socket directly to the battery with fuse and motorcycle rectifier to stop to much power breaking laptops and voila! No light pulsing

Now I'm charging them up all day.

Why have you fitted a rectifier?