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What blacking have I got?


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Coming out of the water mid May for blacking and some other stuff.

 

Currently considering which blacking to use, but it seems that I need to know what the current blacking is.

 

I didn't do it, can't find the bill, and didn't know much about it at the time.

 

How can I tell if I have bitumen based blacking, or coal tar based blacking?

 

If I can't find out, can I prime over what might be coal tar with Black Jack Bitumen Primer, and expect Black Jack Bitumen Paint to stick?

 

Many thanks!

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Just get a cloth dampened with white spirit and wipe over the current blacking. Standard bitumen black will come off readily, coal tar won't.

 

You can paint bitumen black over anything but if you already have bitumen you can't overcoat it with coal tar.

 

But if you have coal tar black, keep it that way.

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If by Black Jack bitumen that's freely available from places like Wilkinsons or B&Q, don't use it as you won't be pleased with it.

 

I've used it and haven't been pleased at all and this was used on external steel but not on a hull that's always in the water.

 

In one example the rain actually vwashed it off, even after the steel was thoroughly prep'd.

 

I would highly recommend Rylards Premium Protection, nearest stockist for us is Worsley Dry Dock.

 

Liam

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Thanks for that Liam. I think it's the same stuff, and Midland Chandlers have started to stock it, (not that that is any recommendation :) ).

 

Dave on Horseshoe has used it twice and said it was as good as new when he came out 3 years after first using it. Its also on Phil & Traceys My Girl.

 

I'll give some thought to Premium Protection, so thanks for that.

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Just get a cloth dampened with white spirit and wipe over the current blacking. Standard bitumen black will come off readily, coal tar won't.

 

You can paint bitumen black over anything but if you already have bitumen you can't overcoat it with coal tar.

 

But if you have coal tar black, keep it that way.

 

Good advice, but the results are not always as clear cut as that suggests.

I wipe an area clean with a white spirit rag first, to clean and start to soften the surface (if bitumen), then do the test with a clean piece of rag & spirit.

 

Some bitumens are more resitant to solvents than others. Premium protection is claimed to be one.

 

The other possibility if the white spirit test comes out clean is that you have two-pack. That will be very hard, and can with work be abraded with alumium oxide paper, while 'plain' tar paints are softer and will probably clog the abrasive.

 

Tim

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