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[jaywalker]

[zenataomm]

Well that's easy for you to say.

[jaywalker]

LOL.

 

Sorry about this I was trying to be clever but failed dismally.

[jaywalker]

If you look at the above picture you can see the back of my electric isolating switch.

It is fitted under the deckboards of my cruiser stern boat, a real pain in the bum to isolate if it is raining. I am hoping to extend the wiring to a second switch inside the boat.

If I remove the smaller cable on the left terminal and run a cable from there to my new switch and return it from the new switch and crimp it to the smaller cable that runs to the fuseboard that would complete the circuit. The new position is about 8 feet away, would I get away with using the same size cable as from the battery to the originl switch?

I hope this makes sense.

 

JIM

[Chalky]

The cable size will depend on the current that its carrying and what volt drop you can tolerate in the circuit. Only you can work that out since you need to know what the circuit is to be able to do the calculations. If you're shortening the circuit then you'll be ok. If you're lengthening it then you'll have to do some calculations.

[dmr]

I assume the thinner wire on the left goes to the Battery?

Bin that and make two new wires with a similar thickness to the thicker one on the right. One from the battery to the new isolator, the other from the new isolator back to the right terminal on the old isolator in the picture. Not optimum but ok, and going to cost a few quid in wire too.

 

............Dave

[Paul C]

Make up new cable runs so that there's no intermediate connections to worry about. Sorry that cable costs so much....

 

Oh, and get them crimped and insulated properly, with a hyraulic crimper (loads of forum members have one and would probably lend a hand, in your local area) and heatshrink with adhesive backing.

[jaywalker]

Sorry folks, I wasnt clear enough.

The thicker wire on the right is from the battery, the second wire on that terminal goes to a relay.

The wire on the left teminal goes to the fuseboard. I can get multistrand cable from the sparky at work so the cost isnt a huge problem. I only have lighting, a fan, a TV and a radio on the boat, so not a huge current draw.

 

JIM

[RLWP]

Make up new cable runs so that there's no intermediate connections to worry about. Sorry that cable costs so much....

 

And keep the bits you replace. They always come in handy somewhere, cascading down to replace other parts of the installation. After all, the bit between the end fittings is usually good cable

 

Richard

[zenataomm]

Sorry about my impertinance, I thought it was a Caption Competition and was stalling for time before suggesting ..... johnny 5 found living on canal boat.

 

I hope you got the answers you need without a Short Circuit ........ good luck.

[Alf Roberts]

If you look at the above picture you can see the back of my electric isolating switch.

It is fitted under the deckboards of my cruiser stern boat, a real pain in the bum to isolate if it is raining. I am hoping to extend the wiring to a second switch inside the boat.

If I remove the smaller cable on the left terminal and run a cable from there to my new switch and return it from the new switch and crimp it to the smaller cable that runs to the fuseboard that would complete the circuit. The new position is about 8 feet away, would I get away with using the same size cable as from the battery to the originl switch?

I hope this makes sense.

 

JIM

why do you need to isolate it when it's raining?

[jaywalker]

 

why do you need to isolate it when it's raining?

I use the boat largely at the weekends and isolate the electrics and gas when not there.

As I cant currently bend my knee it is difficult to access the switch at he best of times and even less fun in the dark with rain running down the back of my neck.

[Alf Roberts]

 

 

I use the boat largely at the weekends and isolate the electrics and gas when not there.

As I cant currently bend my knee it is difficult to access the switch at he best of times and even less fun in the dark with rain running down the back of my neck.

http://www.directvehicleelectrics.co.uk/products/Durite_Battery_Isolator_Battery_Cut_Out_Switches/Durite_060532_battery_cut_out_isolator_switch_12_volt_double_pole_250_amp.html

16 foot plus unnecessary terminations is not a good idea in battery cables ( and, I believe a BSC fail. )

 

Why not fit a smaller isolator immediately before the domestic fuse box?

[jaywalker]

Thanks for that Alf. A lot easier and now that you have mentioned it obvious.

Thanks again.

 

JIM