jaywalker

About a year ago my exhaust leaked and soot got into my wardrobe ruining most of my clothes causing about £5 worth of damage. My exhaust pipe is tightly clipped and obviously there is movement on the engine, the original pipe allows very limited movement I am thinking of replacing it with a more flexible pipe. Does anyone know what temperature these flexis allow or can anyone advise on a better way of solving this problem.

Thanks all. I bolted a couple of bits of aluminium over the plastic. Cassette now operable, I am going to spend the £100 I saved on a new outfit for the good lady wife apparently. FML. 🤨

Apparently this part is not available but they can sell me a cassette for £100. I think these people underrate how cheap I am. once this is bolted up the cassette will see me out. 😎

That’s the bit I am after.

Does anyone know of a contact number for unusual spare parts? I have broken the arm that the sealing disc sits on and I don’t really want to throw the whole cassette away. This is on my spare, spare C200 cassette so it is not currently a crisis.

Sorry I took so long in replying, I would be very interested in this chaps number. im not a great believer in sweating if someone will sweat for me at a reasonable cost. Jim

I bought a boat last year chuffed with it but the canopies are huge. The canopy is old but in good nick but needs some serious cleaning. It is a hard canvas and has green algae forming on the edges. I am looking for advice on how to clean it as I have been told to avoid chemicals at all cost. Does anyone do a cleaning service or is that the lazy way out? TIA. Jim

I need to make a new swanneck/ tiller arm. I believe the standard size tube used is 38mm tube. has anyone else done this and if so how did you form the bends? Failing that who could I get to make one and roughly how much would it cost?

If you are going to common the tanks you should arrange to fill in one and draw from the second to minimise the chance of any water stagnating as should be done in domestic plumbing.

I have scraped the scale rust in my bilge and ordered vactan from eBay, once treated is Hammerite hammered finish paint a worthwhile option as a topcoat?

Only problem is nowhere to mount it other than into the boat.

I have an unusual cratch, it is quite large and has a steel roof and enclosed with a vinyl panelled canopy. My problem is condensation, I was thinking of putting in a solar powered fan to try and circulate air in the periods I am not at the boat. Anyone got any ideas that would help?

This is quite confusing. Why doesn't the owner go and secure the boat or at least claim the damn thing.

Had my boat hull tested when I bought it 4 years ago and was happy with the results. I am lucky in that I can get my boat out of the water easily to black it myself. Has anyone else bought one of these testers, for testing your own boat. If so what one did you buy or am I being silly?

As a plumber of a certain age, might I say I detest platic pipe with a passion. It is for DIYers and people who cant solder properly. What did I use on my boat? Plastic pipe and pushfit fitings it is a no-brainer, just use loads of clips and hide as much as you can.

I am currently painting my boat and need advice on which number(s) I need to show on my boat. I have 2 numbers a BW number and a G number ( I believe this shows it was originally registered on the Ouse) . My boat is normally moored on the Nene. Which number(s) should I paint on the boat?

My cruiser stern has deck boards laying on u tubes and then tubes draining through the baseplate, works perfectly well but I would have thought it would have been easier to drain through the sides. Is this a common arrangement and are the joints where the tubes go through the baseplate a potential weak spot.

Thanks for that Alf. A lot easier and now that you have mentioned it obvious. Thanks again. JIM

I use the boat largely at the weekends and isolate the electrics and gas when not there. As I cant currently bend my knee it is difficult to access the switch at he best of times and even less fun in the dark with rain running down the back of my neck.

Sorry folks, I wasnt clear enough. The thicker wire on the right is from the battery, the second wire on that terminal goes to a relay. The wire on the left teminal goes to the fuseboard. I can get multistrand cable from the sparky at work so the cost isnt a huge problem. I only have lighting, a fan, a TV and a radio on the boat, so not a huge current draw. JIM

If you look at the above picture you can see the back of my electric isolating switch. It is fitted under the deckboards of my cruiser stern boat, a real pain in the bum to isolate if it is raining. I am hoping to extend the wiring to a second switch inside the boat. If I remove the smaller cable on the left terminal and run a cable from there to my new switch and return it from the new switch and crimp it to the smaller cable that runs to the fuseboard that would complete the circuit. The new position is about 8 feet away, would I get away with using the same size cable as from the battery to the originl switch? I hope this makes sense. JIM

LOL. Sorry about this I was trying to be clever but failed dismally.

I used a bit of asbestalux sheet and put a bit of stove blacking on it and a bit of beading to pretty it up at the edges

but still you do