Another wood glue question

[Timleech]

I'm making a new portable wheelbox roof. Two pieces, each with an Iroko frame, the actual roof being 3/8" so-called 'marine' ply which will be rebated into the frame to protect the ply edges.

I have Cascamite and Polyurethane glues on the shelf, which would be the better to use? (or something else?).

The previous effort, with the (FE) ply planted on top of the frame and with softwood edgings glued onto the ply, has only lasted 2 1/2 years, the ply is actually porous now, rain drips through it!. Admittedly it was built in a tearing hurry, to be able to get away for the Jubilee Pageant.

Because the ply will be cut to sit inside a rebate on all four sides, the glue used will have to allow for the possibility of the fit being less than 100% perfect and no real ability to clamp it edgewise.

 

Ta

 

Tim

 

[justmeuk]

cascamite i would choose every time

[Rich]

 

Because the ply will be cut to sit inside a rebate on all four sides, the glue used will have to allow for the possibility of the fit being less than 100% perfect and no real ability to clamp it edgewise.

 

 

Could you fit the panel into a groove rather than a rebate? Or, fit the panel into a deeper rebate and hold in place with beading. The panel could then be set into a bed of silicon and this would protect the panel edges and waterproof the thing?

[lexicon]

Cascanite every time

Do u really mean 3/8 for the ply?

[Timleech]

Cascanite every time

Do u really mean 3/8 for the ply?

 

Yes, it has to be portable!

 

Could you fit the panel into a groove rather than a rebate? Or, fit the panel into a deeper rebate and hold in place with beading. The panel could then be set into a bed of silicon and this would protect the panel edges and waterproof the thing?

 

The issue there is that because it is an almost flat (very slightly pitched) roof, that would mean drainage arrangements at the corners, always a lovely place for rot to start.

 

Tim

Edited September 1, 2014 by Timleech

[Mike Jordan]

I use cascamite for every gluing job with the exeption of iroko and teak. The oily nature of these timbers will tend to cause the glue to fail. Some advocate wiping down the area to be glued with meths or other spirit to remove the oil but i'm not convinced that this is any kind of answer.

I use epoxy resin as the best method of gluing the two timbers mentioned, but I have used polyurethane to test the makers claims that its suited to use on oily timbers. Since you already have it to hand I believe its your best bet.

Mike.

[fudd]

I use cascamite for every gluing job with the exeption of iroko and teak. The oily nature of these timbers will tend to cause the glue to fail. Some advocate wiping down the area to be glued with meths or other spirit to remove the oil but i'm not convinced that this is any kind of answer.I use epoxy resin as the best method of gluing the two timbers mentioned, but I have used polyurethane to test the makers claims that its suited to use on oily timbers. Since you already have it to hand I believe its your best bet.Mike.

I would second that. Especially as it would have to have gap filling properties. 'Gorilla' glue is good stuff. I have no connection blah blah.

[MtB]

Cascamite from my woodwork O Level days requires both an accurate fit (no gaps) AND to be clamped during setting IIRC, so not suitable.

 

But this was 40+ years ago so I may well be wrong!

 

MtB

[John V]

14 years ago I made my wheelhouse doors and frames from Iroko and used polyurethane glue. The frames were glued up and bolted to the steelwork to keep them square.........couldn't get the damn things off again to add preservative to the back....still can't!!!! excellent glue!

[Timleech]

Cascamite from my woodwork O Level days requires both an accurate fit (no gaps) AND to be clamped during setting IIRC, so not suitable.

 

But this was 40+ years ago so I may well be wrong!

 

MtB

 

I'm sure it's claimed somewhere as being a 'gap filling glue'. Of course, I may be wrong

You may be thinking of Aerolite (a 2-part glue)? That was good stuff, in the right circumstances, is it still available?

 

Tim

[fudd]

 

I'm sure it's claimed somewhere as being a 'gap filling glue'. Of course, I may be wrong

You may be thinking of Aerolite (a 2-part glue)? That was good stuff, in the right circumstances, is it still available?

 

Tim

You can fill gaps with it but you have to add a filler to it. Can't remember what it is though. Gorilla glue expands to fill the gaps.

[Mike Jordan]

Thats a hell of a good memory! the ad I remember showed a chap cutting a joint of meat and said " not everyone can cut a perfect joint" and singing the praises of it as a gap filling glue.

Aerolite is still available together with most other adhesives if you look in the right place.

I use Adquick who do very good prices.No connection other than as a happy customer.

[X Alan W]

The boatyard I did the engineering for some years ago that used a lot of teak in the wood side of things, always used "Areolite" 2 part job, they would not use anything else. Seems to still be available from Axminster tools. They seemed not to rate Cascomite for teak.

Edited September 2, 2014 by X Alan W

[Rich]

The boatyard I did the engineering for some years ago that used a lot of teak in the wood side of things, always used "Areolite" 2 part job, they would not use anything else. Seems to still be available from Axminster tools. They seemed not to rate Cascomite for teak.

I used Cascamite for door and window construction in iroko for many years when running a joinery business and, as far as I know, no joint ever failed. I think that if someone's casement had fallen apart as they opened it I would have heard.

[X Alan W]

I used Cascamite for door and window construction in iroko for many years when running a joinery business and, as far as I know, no joint ever failed. I think that if someone's casement had fallen apart as they opened it I would have heard.

Ah but you are talking about Iroko I was stating that the wood guys at the yard didn"t rate it for Teak, I am not experienced in the ways of wood, more towards metal, but the boats they built were in the up to £250,000/ 400,000 mark,so I would consider they had to be on the ball, & am just repeating their thoughts.& putting forward a possible alternative to Cascamite.

[MtB]

I used Cascamite for door and window construction in iroko for many years when running a joinery business and, as far as I know, no joint ever failed. I think that if someone's casement had fallen apart as they opened it I would have heard.

 

Funny you should say that. The casement window in the living room of my house has just fallen apart! I won't be calling the manufacturers to complain about it though...

 

MtB

[Rich]

Ah but you are talking about Iroko I was stating that the wood guys at the yard didn"t rate it for Teak, I am not experienced in the ways of wood, more towards metal, but the boats they built were in the up to £250,000/ 400,000 mark,so I would consider they had to be on the ball, & am just repeating their thoughts.& putting forward a possible alternative to Cascamite.

But the OP was talking about iroko and I was just pointing out that I had never had any trouble using Cascamite with iroko. As I made quite expensive, high performance hardwood windows I believe I was also on the ball.

 

Funny you should say that. The casement window in the living room of my house has just fallen apart! I won't be calling the manufacturers to complain about it though...

 

MtB

MtB, sadly I can't help feeling you are losing the plot somewhere along the line.

[tree monkey]

But the OP was talking about iroko and I was just pointing out that I had never had any trouble using Cascamite with iroko. As I made quite expensive, high performance hardwood windows I believe I was also on the ball.

 

MtB, sadly I can't help feeling you are losing the plot somewhere along the line.

To lose the plot, you have to actually possess it in the first place ;-)

[MtB]

Oi, why aren't you at work??!!

 

 

MtB

[tree monkey]

Oi, why aren't you at work??!!

 

 

MtB

Trying to kill the last half hour before I can head back to the office and then off home, so a bit of light boiler baiting is in order I recon :-)

[Timleech]

Update on this -

 

I went for PU, largely because the job had to be done to a schedule and it can be handled sooner than Cascamite.

I almost immediately regretted that decision, for two reasons. First, the particular glue I was using was going off too quickly. There was a fair bit of time involved setting the joints (two biscuits in each mitred corner), and getting them square and flat, so it's possible some of the joints were not at full strength. I was using glue bought from Axminster tools, but might have been better using the (much more expensive) Gorilla glue as this seems to be slower to react. Speed may depend on moisture present, though?

Second, I fitted the ply panels after the frame was set, and the way that it foams meant that when the glue was trimmed back after setting there were lots of pinholes along the joint line where the ply sits in the rebate. I decided to fit small corner pieces to reinforce the joints below the ply, and then to coat the whole thing with several coats of epoxy.

What staggered me was that the epoxy (WEST) was the most expensive part of the exercise!

 

Tim