Faulty Starter Motor

[Talpa]

Hi,

 

Our narrowboat engine will not start. It is not the starter battery as we have checked the charge on this. What can we do to check the starter motor? We have tried giving the starter motor a knock (as advised by a fellow boater) but this hasn't worked. The other advice was to spray WD40 all over it (don't have any on the boat atm). We were going to try this tomorrow, but firstly any more or any different advice? We would like to solve this ourselves if possible before having to call someone out to have a look at it.

 

Any advice please?

 

Cheers in advance

Edited January 6, 2014 by Talpa

[Beaker]

Do you get a clicking noise when you turn the key?

Is there a drain on the battery as you do it?

A bit more info eould be handy.

[Taslim]

Please don't soak the poor beast in WD40! It was ment to protect the outside of things, not the insides

 

Check that all conections are clean & tight &, as Beaker said, listen for click. Info on engine type & location will help with providing some usefull sugestions.

[Talpa]

Yes there is a clicking noise when the key is turned. And pretty sure there is a drain on the battery when doing so as the light dims.

 

I will check all the connections tomorrow.

 

Engine is a mercedes om636 if this is of any help.

[trackman]

How did you check the battery charge? A dodgy battery may give a fair voltage reading on a meter when supplying no current but the voltage may drop drastically under load.

I had this fairly recently. After removing the starter to check ring gear, relay etc and finding nothing obvious, I checked the battery under load and found only 11.9V or so. Enough to make a click as I turned the key but no hope of turning over the engine!

Can you jump start it from your domestic bank as I did? The banks should share a common earth so you only need a hefty jump lead between the two positives.

Trying that should prove whether it's a battery issue or a fault with starter or relay.

I'm assuming your domestic batteries are well charged of course!

[Talpa]

I did just check the starter with a meter with no load. Tried to jump start with domestic batteries, which had been charged on a generator beforehand with no luck. So I'm assuming it's the starter.

[furnessvale]

I did just check the starter with a meter with no load. Tried to jump start with domestic batteries, which had been charged on a generator beforehand with no luck. So I'm assuming it's the starter.

Provided you have a good battery, nine times out of ten the problem lies with bad connections. Check all the heavy duty connections in the starter circuit are clean and tight, by removing each fitting and cleaning the mating surfaces, before blaming the actual starter motor.

 

George ex nb Alton retired

[Talpa]

Provided you have a good battery, nine times out of ten the problem lies with bad connections. Check all the heavy duty connections in the starter circuit are clean and tight, by removing each fitting and cleaning the mating surfaces, before blaming the actual starter motor.

 

George ex nb Alton retired

I'll make sure this is the first thing I do next and I'll report back. Cheers.

[Pete & Helen]

It could be the bendix is engaged with the starter ring and is stuck.

 

the bendix is the cog on the starter motor that spins along the starter motor shaft then engages with the starter ring, once the starter stops the bendis should move back along the shaft to disengage with the starter ring.

 

the fist post said you were told to hit the starter, this would have been an attempt to free the bendix, not always successful. If you have tools then try taking the starter motor off and see if the benbix is free to move up and down the shaft (by turning the cog) if its difficult to remove then loosen the bolts until you can give it a good shake to free it. sometimes its caused by the cog and or the starter ring being damaged and when they mesh they stick

 

this is only my suggestion, all the above are valid as well

 

good luck

 

just to add, if you get the motor off then the shaft and bendix should be clean and dry, clean off it it isn't

Edited January 6, 2014 by Pete & Helen

[Alan Saunders]

Chances are your starter battery can no longer supply the required CCA (Cold Cranking Amps).

A new, fully charged battery may solve all your problems.

This is the time of the year to replace your engine start battery in your boat or car; especially if it is >3 years old.

 

HTH, Alan

[Sir Nibble]

Loads of supposition and guesswork here, any room for a pro?

[LEO]

Please don't soak the poor beast in WD40! It was ment to protect the outside of things, not the insides

 

Check that all conections are clean & tight &, as Beaker said, listen for click. Info on engine type & location will help with providing some usefull sugestions.

 

Hi,

 

Interesting, about 20 years ago I had problems with the starter motor on a 1.5 - checked with an old mechanic who suggested finding an old bowl, stand the s. motor in it and squirt half a large can of WD40 through the motor. Turn it end over and squirt the other half tank through the unit, Allow to stand for 2 or 3 days, refit and motor worked satisfactorily.

 

It still does 20 odd years later.

 

The amount of black gunge which the WD40 flushed through was amazing.

 

Leo.

[Tony Brooks]

Please can we have some voltage readings so we do not have to guess.

 

Assuming a typical pre-engage starter circuit

 

1. Voltmeter across the battery connected to the LEAD post (get helper to push on by hand) and operate teh starster. take reading while key is at start.

 

A significant drop to below 10 Volts or less = flat or faulty battery

A minor drop of a few 0.1 of a volt = wiring fault (or loose/dirty connections) or faulty solenoid connections.

 

2. repeat with voltmeter between battery post clamps

 

A voltage drop to below 10 volts from 2 above = loose/dirty battery clamp connections.

 

3. Meter between battery + and the main pos terminal on the starter and operate starter (ignore reading when starter is not operating).

 

Less than around 0.3 volt = pos circuit OK

More than 0.3 volt = connection or cable fault on pos side of the circuit.

 

4 move one meter connection to the main terminal on the side of the starter itself or the other large terminal on the solenoid and repeat 3.

 

Less than 0.3 volt = solenoid contacts OK

More than o.3 volt = faulty solenoid contact.

 

5. Move meter to battery negative to starter main negative or case and repeat 3.

 

More than about 0.3 volt = fault on negative wiring.

 

Around 0.3 volt = faulty starter. Take it off, inspect flywheel teeth and pinion (will probably be OK), take to specialist for overhaul.

 

Hope thsi helps.

[Pete & Helen]

Hi,

 

Our narrowboat engine will not start. It is not the starter battery as we have checked the charge on this. What can we do to check the starter motor? We have tried giving the starter motor a knock (as advised by a fellow boater) but this hasn't worked. The other advice was to spray WD40 all over it (don't have any on the boat atm). We were going to try this tomorrow, but firstly any more or any different advice? We would like to solve this ourselves if possible before having to call someone out to have a look at it.

 

Any advice please?

 

Cheers in advance

 

Have you managed to sort this out yet? any feedback would be useful for people with similar problems in the future

[Talpa]

Hi,

 

Apologies in the delay at getting back to you all, I had no time in the week to look into this until yesterday. All it took was a tightening up of the connection at the starter motor and it then started first time. Such a simple little thing, but I think we assumed the worst when it wouldn't start. Thank you all for your advice!