BMV-600 battery monitor help needed

[nicknorman]

Yes, ordinary leisure batteries. I think the current either goes to charging the battery, or to gassing. Therefore is your charging regime creates a fair bit of gassing / need to top up with water often, then the CEF may be lower as you say, even with new batteries.

[Robbo]

Yes, ordinary leisure batteries. I think the current either goes to charging the battery, or to gassing. Therefore is your charging regime creates a fair bit of gassing / need to top up with water often, then the CEF may be lower as you say, even with new batteries.

 

That's true. Im getting around 75amp into the batteries (450ah capacity) on bulk, which is above the % of what Trojan recommend. As my charger can do 120amp, I should add more batteries to increase the capacity to get a better efficiency!

Edited December 24, 2013 by Robbo

[by'eck]

I'm sure you meant to say "just reverse the SHUNT connections". OP, DO NOT reverse the battery connections, that would be a Bad Thing to do.

 

If shunt is the type with two fat connections and two thin wires to the meter, then you can reverse either set. If it's the type with built in electronics and a modular plug on the cable to the meter, then you'll need to reverse the fat cable connections. To check it's right, a discharge should read as a negative number on the amps read-out, and a charge as a positive number.

 

MP.

 

Yes I thought it was implicit that I was referring to shunt, but should have added reverse battery connections to shunt.

 

Unfortunately you cannot reverse the thin wires to battery monitor itself as they are via a supplied twisted pair telephone cable with matching connectors.

[nicknorman]

Yes I thought it was implicit that I was referring to shunt, but should have added reverse battery connections to shunt.

 

Unfortunately you cannot reverse the thin wires to battery monitor itself as they are via a supplied twisted pair telephone cable with matching connectors.

I don't have a BMV but is there no setting to reverse the counting logic as there is on my MV one?

[Robbo]

I don't have a BMV but is there no setting to reverse the counting logic as there is on my MV one?

 

 

Yes it's under the setting of 16mm spanner or socket.

Edited December 24, 2013 by Robbo

[nicknorman]

Ah well, another reason for buying MV stuff!

[by'eck]

I don't have a BMV but is there no setting to reverse the counting logic as there is on my MV one?

 

No it hasn't - I might have know the MV would have that option

[Robbo]

 

No it hasn't - I might have know the MV would have that option

 

Double the price tho.

[Emma b]

Just a quick thank you for this post; having just reconnected my Victron and BMV I happened across this info leading to the correct rewire, unlike the original wiring.

ALL loads including starter on the Load side of the shunt now.

Thanks again

Simon

[Tony Brooks]

I do not think the starter should go through the shunt - especially as on many boats it is fed by its own battery. Although starters only draw a few Ah the Amps drawn can be huge for a few seconds and thus overload the shunt. This can lead to heat damage.

 

If you only have one battery the inaccuracy of several of the meter ranges means that not counting the starter Ah out will not make major difference to its accuracy, overheating the shunt might.

[Robbo]

I do not think the starter should go through the shunt - especially as on many boats it is fed by its own battery. Although starters only draw a few Ah the Amps drawn can be huge for a few seconds and thus overload the shunt. This can lead to heat damage.

 

If you only have one battery the inaccuracy of several of the meter ranges means that not counting the starter Ah out will not make major difference to its accuracy, overheating the shunt might.

You've misread, he said starter (presume starter battery) on the load part of the shunt which is correct. Edited November 9, 2016 by Robbo

[Tony Brooks]

I hope you are right but he just says "all loads including the starter". I interpret that differently to you. I hope you are correct. A starter battery is not a load, its a supply.

[Emma b]

Morning gents and thanks for your replies.

This does need clarification please as I have connected the stater battery earth to the load side of the shunt and the starter earth to the load side of the shunt also.

I have had to use a bus bar which is a heavy duty brass bar incorporating 4 M10 studs to attach all of the earths.

By all of the earths I am including;

Seperate fridge earth

Instrument panel earth

Cabin/interior earth

Invertor earth (victron multiplus)

Is this correct?

Simon

[Tony Brooks]

As far as my concerns about starter current passing through the shunt its fine.

[Emma b]

Ok Tony many thanks for your prompt clarification.

I'll put some pictures up soon too which you may like

Kind regards

Simon

[nicknorman]

Morning gents and thanks for your replies.

This does need clarification please as I have connected the stater battery earth to the load side of the shunt and the starter earth to the load side of the shunt also.

I have had to use a bus bar which is a heavy duty brass bar incorporating 4 M10 studs to attach all of the earths.

By all of the earths I am including;

Seperate fridge earth

Instrument panel earth

Cabin/interior earth

Invertor earth (victron multiplus)

Is this correct?

Simon

Correct, however it is normal to consider the instrument panel to be part of the engine system as it will be fed by the engine battery +ve. In other words current for the starter and engine panel won't go through the shunt and thus won't register on the battery monitor, but that is correct since the monitor is for monitoring the leisure battery circuits. I'm probably just confusing you, sorry! The way you have wired it is correct.

[Emma b]

Thanks!

[Emma b]

 

Hi All, I have (hopefully) attached a few images showing the wiring

Regards

 

Simon

[nicknorman]

Wow that looks neat and robust! Good job! (as the Americans say).