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deisel bug

dreadnought

By dreadnought
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trackman Proficient

trackman

Posted
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Currently I'm using Marine 16. It has been recommended widely by respected people/organisations and is pretty widely available. There are two versions, one intended as a routine preventive additive and one for serious treatment to eliminate diesel bug once you think you've got it.

RCR and Midland Chandlers sell it, and it's available elsewhere.

I can't say for sure that it works, nor even that I'm certain I need to use it. I've never had the bug yet (touch wood!), but never did before I began using Marine 16 either. I do think there's a big risk with modern diesel though, and so do many people I respect on this forum. That's why I started using the stuff a while ago.

I also know a friend who did get the bug and had a difficult and costly time getting rid of it.

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Tony Brooks Veteran II

Tony BrooksDonate to Canal World

Posted
Posted

 

Currently I'm using Marine 16. It has been recommended widely by respected people/organisations and is pretty widely available. There are two versions, one intended as a routine preventive additive and one for serious treatment to eliminate diesel bug once you think you've got it.

RCR and Midland Chandlers sell it, and it's available elsewhere.

I can't say for sure that it works, nor even that I'm certain I need to use it. I've never had the bug yet (touch wood!), but never did before I began using Marine 16 either. I do think there's a big risk with modern diesel though, and so do many people I respect on this forum. That's why I started using the stuff a while ago.

I also know a friend who did get the bug and had a difficult and costly time getting rid of it.

 

I think bigger would be a truer expression than big.

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Guest

Guest

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I use Marine 16 complete. Does it work? No idea TBH, but my diesel has been fine since using it. Maybe it would have been OK without it? Who knows. It isn't too expensive compared to a tank full of diesel.


My newly purchased boat did have the dreaded diesel bug after it conked out on the way to the dock for the survey.

 

Treated with marine 16 and it's gone! The seal on the diesel filler was perishedfrusty.gif Now checked regularly.

 

Jamescheers.gif

Good point, I fit a new one every time I fill up (50p for the last one.)

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Jigsawged Collaborator

Jigsawged

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Posted (edited)

Ask Jonesy, he hasn't seen any evidence of it in 15 years!

 

Me neither but I met a guy at Stourport who reckoned he picked it up when he refuelled a couple of weeks back. You know I like to have something to worry about!

 

Edited to avoid litigation!

Edited by Jigsawged
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We don't bother with additives in our fuel and have no sign if bug.

 

We use our fuel rather than storing it though.

I think you are spot on, and that storing large amounts of fuel in NB's causes more problems, esp. over winter. That is why I bung some M16 in ours. I often wonder if the tank would be better drained over winter than left full. That is what farmers tend to do with the likes of combine harvesters.

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Naughty Cal Veteran II

Naughty Cal

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I think you are spot on, and that storing large amounts of fuel in NB's causes more problems, esp. over winter. That is why I bung some M16 in ours. I often wonder if the tank would be better drained over winter than left full. That is what farmers tend to do with the likes of combine harvesters.

Not sure. We don't tend to do anything different with our fuel over winter. We top it up as and when it needs it. We don't worry about leaving it full or empty.

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grahame r Community Regular

grahame r

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You're damned if you do and damned if you don't, on the one hand you're advised to fill your tank over winter to avoid condensation (which leads to diesel bug) then you're advised to drain it to avoid diesel bug caused by storing large amounts! I did look into starting a business offering diesel polishing but couldn't honestly convince myself that I wouldn't be selling snake oil. I use no additives, put about a thousand hours a year on the engine, mainly during April to October, fill up completely for the winter and have had no problems, yet.

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You're damned if you do and damned if you don't, on the one hand you're advised to fill your tank over winter to avoid condensation (which leads to diesel bug) then you're advised to drain it to avoid diesel bug caused by storing large amounts! I did look into starting a business offering diesel polishing but couldn't honestly convince myself that I wouldn't be selling snake oil. I use no additives, put about a thousand hours a year on the engine, mainly during April to October, fill up completely for the winter and have had no problems, yet.

Yes, you are putting a fair bit of diesel through over a thousand hrs. Some boats take 5 years to do a thousand hours.

 

I don't see anything dodgy about polishing diesel. A farm vehicle was having its tank contents polished recently at my mate's place.

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Naughty Cal Veteran II

Naughty Cal

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Keeping a good servicing regime I suppose will also alert you to any early signs of bug. Changing filters on a regular basis and checking water traps is all simple and cheap to do and should also alert you early on if you are getting a bug problem. Catch it early and you should be able to treat it simply and easily.

 

We have two fuel filters on NC, one larger one on the fuel tank and a fines filter on the engine both of which are changed at least once a year and usually twice.

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Doorman Veteran

Doorman

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Posted (edited)

Keeping a good servicing regime I suppose will also alert you to any early signs of bug. Changing filters on a regular basis and checking water traps is all simple and cheap to do and should also alert you early on if you are getting a bug problem. Catch it early and you should be able to treat it simply and easily.

 

We have two fuel filters on NC, one larger one on the fuel tank and a fines filter on the engine both of which are changed at least once a year and usually twice.

 

A good common sense approach to anything mechanical!

 

We had a 'Wasp' make of fuel filter fitted from new on our boat and I drained it regularly and changed the filter element every 750 hours. It had a solid filter bowl which I wasn't too happy with so I bought a 'Delphi' duel filter unit off EBay for £26 complete with new filters and glass inspection bowls. Now I can do a visual check in between service intervals too.

 

Incidentally, the filter element on the discarded Wasp unit was badly effected by sludge build up, something I couldn't see with the solid filter bowl.

 

I think bigger would be a truer expression than big.

Hi Tony,

 

What are your thoughts on the MLS Fuel Purifier system?

 

The promotional video on their site looks impressive but I would like an experienced opinion before investing in one.

 

Mike

Edited by Doorman
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KJT Proficient

KJTDonate to Canal World

Posted
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Hi Tony,

What are your thoughts on the MLS Fuel Purifier system?

The promotional video on their site looks impressive but I would like an experienced opinion before investing in one.

Mike

We had the MLS fuel filter fitted last year and it seems to do what it says. Fortunately we haven't had any problems with diesel bug but had the fuel polished last year before fitting it. They found no evidence of contamination at all which was good. I check the MLS filter weekly and only once found a bit of crud in the bottom of it which I attributed to some dirty fuel uplifted at an unfamiliar supplier, so it does seem to do what it's supposed to.

 

Ken

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Posted
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Keeping a good servicing regime I suppose will also alert you to any early signs of bug. Changing filters on a regular basis and checking water traps is all simple and cheap to do and should also alert you early on if you are getting a bug problem. Catch it early and you should be able to treat it simply and easily.

 

We have two fuel filters on NC, one larger one on the fuel tank and a fines filter on the engine both of which are changed at least once a year and usually twice.

Yes agree 100%, bleed filters, change often, and I take a couple of litres out of the bottom of the tank each spring with an oil change pump and a piece of solid tube (car brake pipe I think.) There is sometimes traces of water in there which is best removed. Good housekeeping innit?

Have you had a bss inspection since fitting the filter with the glass inspection bowl?

 

I think they are not allowed.

 

Paul

I thought I had heard of ones that were fireproof, but could be getting mixed up with bubble testers?

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PaulD Proficient

PaulDDonate to Canal World

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Interesting. What is the bowl of a bubble tester manufactured from?

A bubble tester is (hopefully) not in the engine compartment where an overheated engine could break the glass.

 

Paul

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Tony Brooks Veteran II

Tony BrooksDonate to Canal World

Posted
Posted

 

Hi Tony,

 

What are your thoughts on the MLS Fuel Purifier system?

 

The promotional video on their site looks impressive but I would like an experienced opinion before investing in one.

 

Mike

 

If you can spare the money I am sure it will work to soem degree.

 

Personally I will continue with a CAV sedimentor & agglomerator (both with solid bowls) fitted in a manner whereby they are easy to drain down with a full tank and annual "vacuuming" or pumping of any muck from the bottom of the tank. That and regularly inspecting the filters when you change them has stood me in good stead.

 

I used to use Fuelset or Fortron but now spilt a pot of Marine 16 between a spring and autumn dose in the tank. A while after the autumn dose is when I clear the bottom of the tank.

 

You can't beat vigilance.

 

A bubble tester is (hopefully) not in the engine compartment where an overheated engine could break the glass.

 

Paul

 

And it is not regularly removed and refitted, sometimes by not very sympathetic people, giving ample opportunity for the glass to be chipped, over tightened or split.

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If you can spare the money I am sure it will work to soem degree.

 

Personally I will continue with a CAV sedimentor & agglomerator (both with solid bowls) fitted in a manner whereby they are easy to drain down with a full tank and annual "vacuuming" or pumping of any muck from the bottom of the tank. That and regularly inspecting the filters when you change them has stood me in good stead.

 

I used to use Fuelset or Fortron but now spilt a pot of Marine 16 between a spring and autumn dose in the tank. A while after the autumn dose is when I clear the bottom of the tank.

 

You can't beat vigilance.

 

 

 

And it is not regularly removed and refitted, sometimes by not very sympathetic people, giving ample opportunity for the glass to be chipped, over tightened or split.

Some bubble testers that I have seen have mooring pins/other junk resting against them!! I ask again; what is the bowl on a bubble tester made from? Is it a special fire rated material?

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Doorman Veteran

Doorman

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Posted (edited)

Have you had a bss inspection since fitting the filter with the glass inspection bowl?

I think they are not allowed.

Paul

Funny you should say that Paul, I did hear that insurance companies prefer the solid bowls. If the BSS thing is a problem then I'll swap the glass bowls for the metal alternative. Shame really, as I believe the thickness of the glass is sufficient to withstand any inadvertent damage and gives you that additional option to view the condition of the fuel.

 

We had the MLS fuel filter fitted last year and it seems to do what it says. Fortunately we haven't had any problems with diesel bug but had the fuel polished last year before fitting it. They found no evidence of contamination at all which was good. I check the MLS filter weekly and only once found a bit of crud in the bottom of it which I attributed to some dirty fuel uplifted at an unfamiliar supplier, so it does seem to do what it's supposed to.

Ken

Cheers Ken,

 

It looks like a decent bit of kit but quite expensive. Then again, so is a new injector pump!

Edited by Doorman
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Doorman Veteran

Doorman

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If you can spare the money I am sure it will work to soem degree.Personally I will continue with a CAV sedimentor & agglomerator (both with solid bowls) fitted in a manner whereby they are easy to drain down with a full tank and annual "vacuuming" or pumping of any muck from the bottom of the tank. That and regularly inspecting the filters when you change them has stood me in good stead.I used to use Fuelset or Fortron but now spilt a pot of Marine 16 between a spring and autumn dose in the tank. A while after the autumn dose is when I clear the bottom of the tank.You can't beat vigilance. And it is not regularly removed and refitted, sometimes by not very sympathetic people, giving ample opportunity for the glass to be chipped, over tightened or split.

Cheers Tony,

 

I think that I'll follow your regime and just adhere to a regular service interval instead of splashing out on the MLS kit. Anyway, I can't afford one now I have to save up for the Delphi conversion kits for my glass bowled double filter, drat and double drat!

 

Strange thing is, the pre-pump fuel filter on our Fisher-Panda marine generator is plastic, how can that be fire resistant?

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