Bathroom bulkheads and lining material.

[Cafnod]

Hi all

Well we are at the stage of the line out where we are thinking about bulkheads, I have some nice faced 19mm ply for the bedromm to saloon bulkhead and the half height kitchen bulkhead, but it is the bathroom that I am concerned about.................

We are having a through bathroom with a bath with a shower over. We had a bath with a shower over in our old boat and found it worked really well for us.

However I am a bit uncertain as to what to use for the bathroom bulkheads as they will be exposed to water and steam, a generally humid enviroment.

Our old boat had blockboard bulkheads, one inch thick.

I was wondering about using OSB but I have never worked with it, is it suitable?

The other alternative I WONDERED about was chipboard as I have seen this used on bathroom floors.

Now IF I use either of the above will I be able to easily face the non bathroom sides of the bulkheads?

AND Will it be easy to fit an edging hardwood batten to act as a hinge support for the door on one side and a slam face on the other?

Do I need to bear in mind anything when working these materials?

What, If any sealant/coating etc do I need to use on the bulkheads for the enviroment they are going to be in?

 

On our old boat the bathroom walls were lined in what appeared to be a lightweight vinyl floor covering, but was probably something else, it worked really well, wiped clean, was waterproof etc, does anyone know what it might be or of something similar and where I might obtain it and at what cost?

 

Fnally we are probably going to cork tile the bathroom floor, but what should we do to protect it?

 

Thanks everyone and I look forward to the replies.

[Keeping Up]

On our old boat the bathroom walls were lined in what appeared to be a lightweight vinyl floor covering, but was probably something else, it worked really well, wiped clean, was waterproof etc, does anyone know what it might be or of something similar and where I might obtain it and at what cost?

It probably was floorcovering. That's what we've got on Keeping Up, and we had the same on Thistle before that. Easily obtainable, cheap, and effective.

Allan

[DHutch]

Our bathroom is also done with vinal flooring, cheap and easy, and relatively un-ugly. (if thats a word...)

 

- Also i beleave you can get a grade of chipboard flooring which is designed for bathroom floors. Its a little more waterproof, or treated, or something like that?

 

 

 

Daniel

[Cafnod]

Thanks Allan for some reason I was under the impression that vinyl floor covering was very expensive, obviously I nedd to go and price some up.

Thanks Daniel, I will call at the builders merchants tomorrow.

 

Has anyone worked chipboard or OSB?

Maybe I need to start a new thread on that.

[DHutch]

I beleave moley used a fair bit of OSM on his refit, see "NB 'Talpidae' 45ft Calcutt re-fit"

- http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=2648

 

 

Daniel

[ChrisPy]

personally I have used 19mm waterproof plywood (as used for flooring by Liverpool Boats) for all my bulkheads. In the bathroom all surfaces are lined with thick vinyl flooring (which also involves sealing the ply surface with contact adhesive), and created a wetroom as a result.

 

I wouldn't dream of using chipboard for bulkheads. I've seen enough rotten chipboard in domestic shower installations to last me a lifetime. I use chipboard only in the flat pack furniture from IKEA, but if that gets wet it's not disastrous to change it out.

 

Waterproof shuttering or flooring grade ply is cheap, easily available and fit for purpose.

[Moley]

I believe moley used a fair bit of OSM on his refit

Correct, anywhere it's not going to be seen.

Not very nice stuff, but it's only a backing.

 

Have actually used MDF for bulkheads, facing with laminates and ash faced ply, but inside bathroom I've sealed everything, used bitumen paint for good measure, then tiled using sealants. Can't guarantee it's totally waterproof, but I've tried to keep it kidproof.

 

Chipboard is only for flatpack kitchen cupboards. Vile stuff. Has the moisture resistance qualities of blotting paper.

[DHutch]

Yeah, also not a fan of chipboard.

- If you've ever got a long of water down a kitchen unit (ie, waste pipe falls of the sink..) and watched the whole cupboard swell up at all the joins! nice.

 

 

Daniel

[Maffi]

 

Finally we are probably going to cork tile the bathroom floor, but what should we do to protect it?

 

 

I used cork tiles in my bathroom.

 

I put one coat of dark stain on half of them and two coats on the other half.

 

They went down in a two tone checker board effect.

 

Finished off with two coats of clear yacht varnish.

 

Looks as good now as it did when I laid it six years ago.

Edited June 9, 2006 by Maffi

[DHutch]

We have cork flooring in our bathroom and shower room and one of the downstairs rooms at home, and there all sealed with "bournseal" floor varnish. All looks fairly ok after 18years of use and abuse.

- There was a thread about corkflooring on boats somtime last year too.

 

 

Daniel

[ChrisPy]

I'm planning on cork floor tiles, even though there were some very scathing comments on this forum when I first suggested it. I prefer the natural look, pre-sealed tiles without additional varnish. We had them in the bathroom when I was a lad, and they were cosy on your bare feet, and never needed maintenance. My SO wouldn't give them houseroom!

[Cafnod]

Correct, anywhere it's not going to be seen.

Not very nice stuff, but it's only a backing.

 

Have actually used MDF for bulkheads, facing with laminates and ash faced ply, but inside bathroom I've sealed everything, used bitumen paint for good measure, then tiled using sealants. Can't guarantee it's totally waterproof, but I've tried to keep it kidproof.

 

Chipboard is only for flatpack kitchen cupboards. Vile stuff. Has the moisture resistance qualities of blotting paper.

 

How did you laminate the faced ply to the OSB Ade?

Can you put an hardwood edge for a door frame onto the side of an osb/mdf panel?

 

I'm planning on cork floor tiles, even though there were some very scathing comments on this forum when I first suggested it. I prefer the natural look, pre-sealed tiles without additional varnish. We had them in the bathroom when I was a lad, and they were cosy on your bare feet, and never needed maintenance. My SO wouldn't give them houseroom!

 

They can be as scathing as they like Chris, I have had cork floors in various places I have lived in and throughout the last boat, it is easy to clean, warm, comfortable and durable.

 

Thanks for you replies BTW sorry not to have responded earlier I have been away house sitting for friends for most of this week and not had much computer access.

[ChrisPy]

They can be as scathing as they like Chris ...........

... seems the all scathers have gone to ground

[Moley]

How did you laminate the faced ply to the OSB Ade?

I've only got one piece on so far (had to go on before I ran gas pipe over it), and that's been pinned at the edges to window surrounds and otherwise held by waterproof Evo wood glue.

 

Can you put an hardwood edge for a door frame onto the side of an osb/mdf panel?

Don't see any reason why not, but will be using polyurethane wood glue (the sort that foams and fills all gaps) together with biscuits probably on 10 inch centres.

[Cafnod]

Thanks Ade back home now. Not used a biscuit jointer, they are meant to e good for joining sheet materials on edge to edge and T joints arent they?

I was wondering about Kreg jigging the panels and pulling the hardwood frame into them while a good glue sets.

[Moley]

Not used a biscuit jointer, they are meant to be good for joining sheet materials on edge to edge and T joints arent they?

Dead simple and very effective either way. Very strong joints.

Had tried cutting biscuit slots with a router (edge to edge only) but it's a pain.

Finally bought one from The Range in Kiddy, it's only a Blackspur, £35, does the job though.

 

I was wondering about Kreg jigging the panels

Yerwot

[Richard Bustens]

The Kreg is great you can join almost everything you can even make circular pillars, but it needs to be joined on the side that does not show, i know you can get the plugs for the holes but they are expensive and will still show.

 

With biscuits there is nothing to show , but it is a problem sometimes clamping things that are 6' long, and don't forget they are only any good in tention not sheer.

[anhar]

The Kreg is great you can join almost everything you can even make circular pillars, but it needs to be joined on the side that does not show, i know you can get the plugs for the holes but they are expensive and will still show.

 

With biscuits there is nothing to show , but it is a problem sometimes clamping things that are 6' long, and don't forget they are only any good in tention not sheer.

Am I the only one that doesn't have a clue what is being discussed here?

 

What the hell is a Kreg? Sounds like a new alien character for Dr Who. Episode 6: Invasion of the Kregs.

 

As for a biscuit, the only kind I know of are those that you dunk in your tea. However I'm not sure that they make a desirable building material. If you are lining your boat out in them, won't they go a bit soggy in the damp canal atmosphere?

 

Anyway who ever heard of a 6' long jaffa cake. Although I know dick about boatbuilding, I don't believe these are much cop in either tension or sheer situations.

 

Or perhaps this is yet another character from a new Dr Who production.

 

The Kregs vs. The Six Foot Jaffa Cakes.

 

regards

Steve

[Cafnod]

The Kreg is great you can join almost everything you can even make circular pillars, but it needs to be joined on the side that does not show, i know you can get the plugs for the holes but they are expensive and will still show.

 

With biscuits there is nothing to show , but it is a problem sometimes clamping things that are 6' long, and don't forget they are only any good in tention not sheer.

 

 

Yes the Kreg brought pocket hole screwing into the 21st century. Booth (wrongly) states in his alleged narrowboat building book that they are only suitable for 19mm minimum ply BUT what he does not tell you is that you can buy shorter screws and that these will allow you to comfortably work with 15mm, cos that is what a lot of my motorhome is fabricated in.

People also think kreg screws are specialist but again this is inaccurate they are a self tapping version of a Canadian invented Robertson screw and can be bought in all sorts of lengths there (and in the US) also you can buy very chunky handheld Robertson drivers there for about $5.00 (£2.50). However, strangely for Canada the screws are no cheaper there, most things are about half price, that is why we buy a lot of our climbing and outdoor gear there.

Pain trying to blank the holes I agree Richard, shame that the drill hole does not conform to a standard dowel size. But you can always make a dwel plate out of some angle iron for plugging, glue it in then cut it off and plane it flush when it sets.

Edited June 13, 2006 by Cafnod

[Richard Bustens]

http://www.btisupply.com/detail.aspx?ID=3550

[Cafnod]

Dead simple and very effective either way. Very strong joints.

Had tried cutting biscuit slots with a router (edge to edge only) but it's a pain.

Finally bought one from The Range in Kiddy, it's only a Blackspur, £35, does the job though.

 

Yerwot

 

 

Lots of cheap accurate tools around that will last the job plus a while more now Ade, maybe I will get one. Only problem is the time to acquire the skill to employ them.

[Moley]

As for a biscuit, the only kind I know of are those that you dunk in your tea. However I'm not sure that they make a desirable building material.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biscuit_joiner

[Cafnod]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biscuit_joiner

 

 

Is that a picture of your biscuit jointer Moley

If you can get me one of those for £35 I will have six.

[Moley]

Is that a picture of your biscuit jointer Moley

Looks the same, does the same

[DHutch]

Am I the only one that doesn't have a clue what is being discussed here?

 

What the hell is a Kreg? Sounds like a new alien character for Dr Who. Episode 6: Invasion of the Kregs.

 

As for a biscuit...

Never heard of a Kreg, but ive done a fair bit of bicuit joining, with a router.

 

Basicaly the idea of a biscuit joint is like that of a tongue-joint (which is basical like T&G, only with to groves and a seperate tongue)

 

You cut a slot along the edge, or several short curved slots. Then you smere it all in glue, push the (oval) biscuts into the slots and assemble it and clamp it up.

- Then comes the real clever bit! The biscuit is heavly compressed manfactored wood, and it absorbes the glue, swelling and forming a tight joint.

- All the wide shelves of the bookcase i make recently are bisuict jointed, very nice joints, very strong.

 

A woodworking Biscuit

 

Exploded veiw of a biscuit joint (best i could find...)

 

 

Daniel

 

 

 

 

Heres the bookcase, for anyone thats interested

 

(and yes its true, the main reason i choose tho's CDs to be front was for the cover!)