Bleedin Nut

[matola]

I've sheared off my upper fueld pump bleed nut while bleeding my bmc 1.5.

 

Thing is I Do know m own strength, - puny! I'm always carefull not to overtighten but it seemed to be made from soft cheese today.

 

Anyway it'll need to be fixed and bled again before we're going anywhere.

 

 

So I could try and drill and get an extractor to remove the stud and try to find a suitable bolt but maybe I'm better off looking to buy a replacement unit ?

 

Where might I find a replacement bolt set ?

 

As always thanks, everyone for your help and advice.

 

Matt

[Thewatchmaker]

I've sheared off my upper fueld pump bleed nut while bleeding my bmc 1.5.

 

Thing is I Do know m own strength, - puny! I'm always carefull not to overtighten but it seemed to be made from soft cheese today.

 

Anyway it'll need to be fixed and bled again before we're going anywhere.

 

 

So I could try and drill and get an extractor to remove the stud and try to find a suitable bolt but maybe I'm better off looking to buy a replacement unit ?

 

Where might I find a replacement bolt set ?

 

As always thanks, everyone for your help and advice.

 

Matt

 

Can't you just bleed it through the whole chunk you have removed and replace at a later date?

That is as long as the bleed nut is still sealed.

[Tonka]

Calcutt Boats is your best bet

[Tony Brooks]

I've sheared off my upper fueld pump bleed nut while bleeding my bmc 1.5.

 

Thing is I Do know m own strength, - puny! I'm always carefull not to overtighten but it seemed to be made from soft cheese today.

 

Anyway it'll need to be fixed and bled again before we're going anywhere.

 

 

So I could try and drill and get an extractor to remove the stud and try to find a suitable bolt but maybe I'm better off looking to buy a replacement unit ?

 

Where might I find a replacement bolt set ?

 

As always thanks, everyone for your help and advice.

 

Matt

 

First of all by taking it all out you have disturbed the idle damper so when you put it back it may not rev up, it may have too high an idle or it may stall when put into slow speed.

 

Personally I NEVER bleed from that point because it can so easily end in tears (as you have found. Bleed from the 8mm bleed screw that is located on the side of the cylindrical body and keep priming for at least 30 seconds after you think you have all the air out. Then bleed from the injector pipe unions by cranking the engine.

 

If you really have problems bleeding it remove one end of the pipe running from the engine end of the injector pump to the IN arrow on the filter, wrap in rags (its going to be messy) and spin on starter.

 

It is just a CAV DPA pump so ANY decent diesel equipment specialist should be able to supply a new screw and possibly the complete damper assembly. Otherwise as has been said Calcutt.

[matola]

Hi

I managed to drill and remove the stud using the tang on a needle file and now I've found and cut a new bolt to suit perfectly and now its sealed once again

But I'm still having the original bleeding problem, but will give it a go to turn it right through as you suggest, just waiting for the batterys to charge again now. I think it'll go this time, fingers crossed.

 

I marked both the bolt sections before i removed them, and have been carefull not to adjust the turn between the lower and the middle bolts while fixing the upper 8mm bleed bolt so I hope the idle has not moved, but had little choice but to remove it.

 

Thanks for your help.

Matt

 

 

 

First of all by taking it all out you have disturbed the idle damper so when you put it back it may not rev up, it may have too high an idle or it may stall when put into slow speed.

 

Personally I NEVER bleed from that point because it can so easily end in tears (as you have found. Bleed from the 8mm bleed screw that is located on the side of the cylindrical body and keep priming for at least 30 seconds after you think you have all the air out. Then bleed from the injector pipe unions by cranking the engine.

 

If you really have problems bleeding it remove one end of the pipe running from the engine end of the injector pump to the IN arrow on the filter, wrap in rags (its going to be messy) and spin on starter.

 

It is just a CAV DPA pump so ANY decent diesel equipment specialist should be able to supply a new screw and possibly the complete damper assembly. Otherwise as has been said Calcutt.

[RobinJ]

But I'm still having the original bleeding problem, but will give it a go to turn it right through as you suggest, just waiting for the batterys to charge again now. I think it'll go this time, fingers crossed.

You should be able to bleed right through to the pump body without turning the engine over if you have a priming lever on the lift pump? If the batteries are flattened simply by bleeding the pump and injectors then it sounds like you have another problem?

Could be amount of fuel?

Could be filters?

Could be air leak?

 

If you have a priming lever, you should be able to hear fuel going back into the tank or see it if you crack a return bango, it will also show up air leaks, as fuel will come out!

[bizzard]

You should be able to bleed right through to the pump body without turning the engine over if you have a priming lever on the lift pump? If the batteries are flattened simply by bleeding the pump and injectors then it sounds like you have another problem?

Could be amount of fuel?

Could be filters?

Could be air leak?

 

If you have a priming lever, you should be able to hear fuel going back into the tank or see it if you crack a return bango, it will also show up air leaks, as fuel will come out!

Initionally yes but a tiny pocket of air in a DPA pump will stop it working.Charge the battery right up. After priming as much as possible by hand by all means try to start it,but i've found the quickest way is to crack open all 4 injector pipes and spin the engine until clear fuel starts to dribble from the pipes,this will happen usually one by one,as this happens tighten the pipes in turn and the engine should gradually come to life,once a couple of cylinders are working the engine should keep running and the other two should soon chime in cylinder by cylinder.

[dccruiser]

I also have a BMC 1.5 and have never bled it at the pump . only ever as Bizzard says ... if for some reason i have drained all the fuel i use the hand crank and bleed to the filter first, then crack the injector pipes and use engine cranking to bleed the rest , this always works for me without fail.

 

Rick