Central heating plan

[blackrose]

 

That's good, but you'll need to have the drain tap at the lowest part of the system (under your last arrow.)

 

Because the header tank Td of at the highest point, the system should be self-bleeding. You should have an open header tank so if it's from a car leave any pressure cap off or modify it so it doesn't pressurise the system.

Edited March 7, 2012 by blackrose

[Gazboatman]

That's good, but you'll need to have the drain tap at the lowest part of the system (under your last arrow.)

 

Because the header tank Td of at the highest point, the system should be self-bleeding. You should have an open header tank so if it's from a car leave any pressure cap off or modify it so it doesn't pressurise the system.

Yes that's a good point about the tap, I was thinking about that today, I'm half way through plumbing it in but haven't go.t to that part so that's where the tap will be fitted. For the header tank I'm just going to use a tuppeware tub similar to MrSmellys header tank.

 

Also I have conected my water supply to the system with a brass tap to close it off, so I can fill it up easily if needed.

 

It's looking good so far

[mickspangle]

Also I have conected my water supply to the system with a brass tap to close it off, so I can fill it up easily if needed.

 

It's looking good so far

 

I really wouldn't connect your drinking water system to the CH system especially if using antifreeze in it.

[Gazboatman]

I really wouldn't connect your drinking water system to the CH system especially if using antifreeze in it.

LOL doh!!

 

Guess that will be the drain tap then.

[smileypete]

Right I think I've got it..

 

Nice diagram! But I would have a proper feed and vent, and open expansion tank, as follows:

 

 

Otherwise, if the back boiler boils you might end up with the situation described in this post - and this one!

 

Also the distance beween top of back boiler and radiator inlet must be as great as possible, or you may end up with the same problem as the boat owner in this thread.

 

So I'd have the stove as low down, and the top of the radiators as high under the gunnel, as practicable...

 

cheers,

Pete.

[blackrose]

Nice diagram! But I would have a proper feed and vent, and open expansion tank, as follows:

 

 

 

Personally I don't like the look of that system at all. I prefer the one Gazboatman is building.

 

Also I have conected my water supply to the system with a brass tap to close it off, so I can fill it up easily if needed.

 

Don't do that. It's easy enough to check the header tank and add some water/antifreeze/noise inhibitor if necessary.

Edited March 7, 2012 by blackrose

[Gazboatman]

Nice diagram! But I would have a proper feed and vent, and open expansion tank, as follows:

 

 

Otherwise, if the back boiler boils you might end up with the situation described in this post - and this one!

 

Also the distance beween top of back boiler and radiator inlet must be as great as possible, or you may end up with the same problem as the boat owner in this thread.

 

So I'd have the stove as low down, and the top of the radiators as high under the gunnel, as practicable...

 

cheers,

Pete.

I can't have an open system with a pipe above the header tank as there is no room above due to the due to the gunwale. I was just planning on haveing an open header tank if needed.

 

The diagram isn't exact and I'm not sure if the outlet of the boiler is bellow the first rad inlet but I'll check tomorrow and should be able to adjust what I've done so far.

 

TY

 

Personally I don't like the look of that system at all. I prefer the one Gazboatman is building.

 

 

 

Don't do that. It's easy enough to check the header tank and add some water/antifreeze/noise inhibitor if necessary.

Yea I thought that, but whilst I was away my brother came up with the idea without thinking it through properly. It was the last part plumbed in before we quit so easy enough to remove. Or we could turn it into the drain tap as it looks to be situated at the lowest part of the system.

[smileypete]

Personally I don't like the look of that system at all. I prefer the one Gazboatman is building.

Why do you prefer the previous diagram?

 

 

I can't have an open system with a pipe above the header tank as there is no room above due to the due to the gunwale. I was just planning on haveing an open header tank if needed.

The open header tank, feed and vent can be anywhere along you like, just add a 'bottle air vent' at the highest point to bleed off air.

 

The diagram isn't exact and I'm not sure if the outlet of the boiler is bellow the first rad inlet but I'll check tomorrow and should be able to adjust what I've done so far.

OK, please let us know how it goes.

 

cheers,

Pete.

[Gazboatman]

Ok, all plumbed in. This is what we ended up with.

 

 

Just got to plumb the emergen heater boiler in spuring off to the right and we should be able to test it.

 

Fingers crossed.

[ditchcrawler]

I can't have an open system with a pipe above the header tank as there is no room above due to the due to the gunwale. I was just planning on haveing an open header tank if needed.

 

 

You could put the header tank higher, it doesn't have to be under the gunwale. Unless you are short of room.

[Gazboatman]

You could put the header tank higher, it doesn't have to be under the gunwale. Unless you are short of room.

The second rad is in a small corridor, so a bit limed to space in that area.

 

But I'll try it as it is at moment and if it needs changing I'll make room.

Edited March 8, 2012 by Gazboatman

[ditchcrawler]

The second rad is in a small corridor, so a bit limed to space in that area.

 

But I'll try it as it is at moment and if it needs changing I'll make room.

You could even extend the top pipe back under the gunwale and take it up nearer the back of the boat if you wanted to.

[blackrose]

Why do you prefer the previous diagram?

 

Just looks perfectly adequate and simpler to me. Mine's plumbed that way and I've never had any problems with it.

Edited March 8, 2012 by blackrose

[Gazboatman]

Just looks perfectly adequate and simpler to me. Mine's plumbed that way and I've never ahad any problems with it.

Yea I'll try it like this and if doesn't work for me, I can always adjust things, the only thing I don't like is the rise back to back boiler, but the stern is to the right of the diagram and I have a very heavy generator which will be situated on the rear deck, so that might level it out.

 

Have you got 2 rads on your system and how many feet does it cover, I think mine cover about 18 to 20 feet.

Edited March 8, 2012 by Gazboatman

[blackrose]

Yea I'll try it like this and if doesn't work for me, I can always adjust things, the only thing I don't like is the rise back to back boiler, but the stern is to the right of the diagram and I have a very heavy generator which will be situated on the rear deck, so that might level it out.

 

I was going to mention that, but to be honest unless you fit very low height radiators it's a difficult one to solve. I fitted short rads on mine because I didn't wasnt a rise back to the backboiler, but I've heard that others have taller rads with a rising return and their systems thermocycle without a problem.

 

By the way, resist the temptation to have a big fire straight away, especially if it's a new cast iron stove. Start with some smallish fires and gradually build them up (after filling and bleeding the system of course - try bleeding the rads even though in theory it's self-bleeding).

Edited March 8, 2012 by blackrose

[Gazboatman]

I was going to mention that, but to be honest unless you fit very low height radiators it's a difficult one to solve. I fitted short rads on mine because I didn't wasnt a rise back to the backboiler, but I've heard that others have taller rads with a rising return and their systems thermocycle without a problem.

 

By the way, resist the temptation to have a big fire straight away, especially if it's a new cast iron stove. Start with some smallish fires and gradually build them up (after filling and bleeding the system of course - try bleeding the rads even though in theory it's self-bleeding).

The fire this lot is connected to is a bit over the top, 12kw (I didn't pick it) probably going to have to watch what we are doing with it.

[c c]

I can't have an open system with a pipe above the header tank as there is no room above due to the due to the gunwale. I was just planning on haveing an open header tank if needed.

I made our header tank out of a tupperware style plastic cereal box with clip down seal lid from Tesco, (hole drilled in to allow for escaping expanded air) with both pipes entering into the bottom of it - one into a plastic pipe joint on the base to take away water and the other sticking up above the water level (I think it was a plastic WC system internal overflow pipe from Wickes). It has worked perfectly. The great thing about having a lid is that you don't lose water to condensation.

[JDR]

Ok, all plumbed in. This is what we ended up with.

 

 

Just got to plumb the emergen heater boiler in spuring off to the right and we should be able to test it.

 

Fingers crossed.

If the stove is in the back of the boat then isn't lowest point of system on that diagram just to the right of rad 1? With a 12kw stove you might want to think about getting a large office fan! You're going to be sweating like a bomb disposal officers backside! Good luck, John.

[Gazboatman]

If the stove is in the back of the boat then isn't lowest point of system on that diagram just to the right of rad 1? With a 12kw stove you might want to think about getting a large office fan! You're going to be sweating like a bomb disposal officers backside! Good luck, John.

I know it might sound stupid but.. with all these conflicting lines in the boat, I lost all sense of which way the boats leaning.

 

The tap can be moved once we work out whats what, it was never meant to be the drain tap, it was put there as my brother thought it would be a good idea to connect the water supply to it.

 

The same brother bought the fire..... I said it was over the top but he wouldn't listen. Can you not just keep the fires small or burning slowly to keep the heat down?

[JDR]

If its brand new is it too late to swap it for a 4-5kw job? Maybe 6kw at the outside.If thats not an option definitely start off small, use firebricks to reduce the area of the firebox and experiment.

[Grace and Favour]

I know it might sound stupid but.. with all these conflicting lines in the boat, I lost all sense of which way the boats leaning.

 

The tap can be moved once we work out whats what, it was never meant to be the drain tap, it was put there as my brother thought it would be a good idea to connect the water supply to it.

 

The same brother bought the fire..... I said it was over the top but he wouldn't listen. Can you not just keep the fires small or burning slowly to keep the heat down?

 

If your fire's already installed - - - and you can't return it . .

 

Then get some extra firebrick linings and line out the inside of the fire to reduce the fuel capacity

 

 

I suspect some peeps use ordinary housebricks - - but have a good look round Kiln Linings - - they've some bargain priced odd sizes!

[Gazboatman]

If its brand new is it too late to swap it for a 4-5kw job? Maybe 6kw at the outside.If thats not an option definitely start off small, use firebricks to reduce the area of the firebox and experiment.

Here's the beast, bit over the top I know, but I'm sure we'll figure out how to tame it.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350530536759?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

[JDR]

Good looking stove- like Grace & Favour suggested reducing the size of the firebox will reduce your fuel bill. Just go easy when you're learning, nothing worse than having to spend two hours in a t-shirt with all windows, hatches and doors open listening to your heating system overflowing from the header tank mildly paranoid that something is going to go bang!

[Gazboatman]

If your fire's already installed - - - and you can't return it . .

 

Then get some extra firebrick linings and line out the inside of the fire to reduce the fuel capacity

 

 

I suspect some peeps use ordinary housebricks - - but have a good look round Kiln Linings - - they've some bargain priced odd sizes!

Yes that's probably what we'll do, it's got a big viewing window on it so might be best to try taper the edges off the bricks towards the glass so it doesn't ruin the view.

 

Good looking stove- like Grace & Favour suggested reducing the size of the firebox will reduce your fuel bill. Just go easy when you're learning, nothing worse than having to spend two hours in a t-shirt with all windows, hatches and doors open listening to your heating system overflowing from the header tank mildly paranoid that something is going to go bang!

I'll be sat on tha towpath I think.

[ditchcrawler]

Yes that's probably what we'll do, it's got a big viewing window on it so might be best to try taper the edges off the bricks towards the glass so it doesn't ruin the view.

 

 

I'll be sat on tha towpath I think.

Have you got the second boiler for the hot water syphoning as well?