Replacement chainsaw chains

[blackrose]

Actually that article does seem to say that the extra 'dead' links do play a part:-

 

"Full safety chains have extra bumper links between the cutting links, maintaining nearly full depth gauge height along the full extent of the chain and reducing the risk of kickback to very low levels. Full safety (bumpered) chains are often fitted as original equipment to domestic and entry level saws."

 

Tim

 

So given that, which brand of replacement chain should I go for on my entry level saw? I always keep the tip of the blade well away from the wood. I've never felt the dreaded kickback and neither do I want to!

[tree monkey]

So given that, which brand of replacement chain should I go for on my entry level saw? I always keep the tip of the blade well away from the wood. I've never felt the dreaded kickback and neither do I want to!

 

sorry its not about brand every manufactor will make the complete range of chains, if i could give you a straight answer i would, most if not all chains sold today to amauters will be low kickback. I would be very very supprised if you are given anything else.

 

If you are really concerned go to a dealer in person

 

dont stress about kick back as long as you dont use the bar tip and your chainbrake is working all you will get is a sudden kick and the chain will be switched off by the brake, honestly just dont lean over the saw and dont catch the bar tip on anything.

 

If you are anywhere near llangollen give me a call and i will happly give a bit of advice and brew you a cup of tea, if it helps

[ditchcrawler]

couldnt say i always used sthil or husky, the odd time i used oregon i thought they were too soft and easly worn but unless you really know how to sharpen and use a saw i would go cheaper end of the market, most of the knackered chains i have seen were through poor sharpening methods and cheap makes sense in that case

 

excuse me if you do know how to sharpen a chain properly, it just many don't, including many so called profesionals, its a knack i have to work at and now i dont work on the saw full time my sharpening is shakey at times

There was a great program on "Quest" about making chain saws, chains and testing them for kick back.

[blackrose]

sorry its not about brand every manufactor will make the complete range of chains, if i could give you a straight answer i would, most if not all chains sold today to amauters will be low kickback. I would be very very supprised if you are given anything else.

 

If you are really concerned go to a dealer in person

 

dont stress about kick back as long as you dont use the bar tip and your chainbrake is working all you will get is a sudden kick and the chain will be switched off by the brake, honestly just dont lean over the saw and dont catch the bar tip on anything.

 

If you are anywhere near llangollen give me a call and i will happly give a bit of advice and brew you a cup of tea, if it helps

 

Thanks - one other question about the chain brake: I've operated the chainbrake before, but not in a kickback situation. How does it work in the case of kickback? Is the chain brake pushed forward by it hitting your left forearm?

[tree monkey]

Thanks - one other question about the chain brake: I've operated the chainbrake before, but not in a kickback situation. How does it work in the case of kickback? Is the chain brake pushed forward by it hitting your left forearm?

 

keep asking i dont mind, im a saw geek

 

they operate two ways inertia, by the action of the saw kicking and by the phsical pushing of the brake either by youself calmly or by the action of the kickback pushing the brake against your hand.

 

does that make sense????

[blackrose]

keep asking i dont mind, im a saw geek

 

they operate two ways inertia, by the action of the saw kicking and by the phsical pushing of the brake either by youself calmly or by the action of the kickback pushing the brake against your hand.

 

does that make sense????

 

Yes, but in the second way you mention, presumably I'd have lost my grip on the handle with my left hand?

[tree monkey]

Yes, but in the second way you mention, presumably I'd have lost my grip on the handle with my left hand?

 

nope i think you overestimate kickback in normal use..........or you are not holding the saw properly

 

and in any case the inertia will have switched the brake on anyway without your hand on the saw

 

I use the tip of the saw day to day and as long as you are expecting it it is well controlable, i wouldnt advise it but we do all the time

[Bat & Frog]

If this works you should be able to see the difference between normal and very low kickback chains, low kickback has a long raised link to help prevent the chain biting so much.

Well, thats the way I understand it.

 

My link

 

My link

[tree monkey]

If this works you should be able to see the difference between normal and very low kickback chains, low kickback has a long raised link to help prevent the chain biting so much.

Well, thats the way I understand it.

 

My link

 

My link

 

ohh well done i have tried to find some pics but failed completly

[blackrose]

I see, thanks all.

 

Mike

[Bat & Frog]

Get the same type as you already have, while I have seen the very low kb chain on occasional saws, its not often. In these cases it could be as treemonkey says,small saw with large bar to sell it, then a chain with less teeth as saw can't copy with normal chain. Only machine I have with this chain is an Oregon pole saw.

[XAlan W]

Does anyone know where I can find good replacement chains for my Ryobi RCS3335 (14" blade).

 

I found Archer chains on ebay and they're quite cheap, but that's the bit that worries me. Will one end up snapping and ripping through my gloved hand?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140653373755?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

 

They're made in China as is everything these days. I've no idea where the chain that came with the saw was made - quite possibly China too? The chainsaw manual specifies that "low-kickback" replacement chains are used. I don't know if the Archer chain is low-kickback or not?

 

Try 01283533122 Chains Direct Burton on Trent area, do good quality chain at very competitive prices + free post to the UK. If your chain is 3/8`s Lo Pro, I would suggest a OREGON VXL Type 91 as a very good cutting & quality chain & cheaper than most others[ NOT a safety chain though it`s a pro chain they cut much better/faster than safety chain, if you feel you must have safety chain then Oregon Vanguard but they will advise you as to your needs just need to quote chain size & drive link number It may give you all the info on the guide bar Stihl is very good chain but more expensive]

[XAlan W]

'domestic' saws seem to be fitted with a chain with a much lower percentage of cutting teeth than on 'serious' saws. Is this what makes them 'low kick back'?

 

Incidentally, how do you (OP) get on with the Ryobi saw? I bought a Ryobi electric for cutting firewood on the sawing horse, but I've given up with it because the tensioning arrangement is useless, won't hold the chain tight & it's forever coming off. If it weren't for that, it would have been OK for the price.

 

Tim

The number of teeth is not a factor in [safety/pro non low kickback chain] the difference is on the part of chain in front of the teeth/cutter Low Kick back has a longer ramped part along side or near the Raker[ the little tab in front of the tooth]the pro chain just has the raker

[the grinch]

Machinemart also sell chainsaw blades not sure if they have your particular brand

[ploddy]

I find that low kick back chain is only useful when doing plunge cuts using the tip if the saw. However this is not something you will really need to do if just chopping fire wood. Just be sure to cut the 'tension' side of the wood first and finish at the'compression side. This way you won't trap the saw or get kick back, also avoid using the top side if the tip and don't stand in line with the saw. If these tips are followed then there is no real reason to use low kick back chain, you get better performance from good quality chain without bumper links. I can make up chains for people (stihl) for a reasonable price if anyone is interested. Just pm me and I'll give you a price.

[onionbargee]

Ryobi is just a disposable Chinese product, with a standard chain you can get from B & Queue, worrying about special low kickback chains is a bit over the top. By the time you get one the saw will be knackered. like has been said before here, if you go for a small bar and chain you will get much better power out of this saw, as your only cutting small stuff. Tool hire and garden machinery places will cut and rivet a length of chain to suit, usually Oregon chain.

 

by the way i sell logs and have over the years cut boat loads of them and never once had a kickback, i've even tried to get one and it's not easy or usually even that dangerous, as long as you stay clear of the top of the sprocket area of the blade you will never get one one. Most problems with cutting are faffing about and not using full throttle, which is how the saw is designed to run.

[blackrose]

Ryobi is just a disposable Chinese product, with a standard chain you can get from B & Queue, worrying about special low kickback chains is a bit over the top. By the time you get one the saw will be knackered.

 

Well, I'm only going by what the manual says - perhaps they're just covering their arse? I don't think a low-kickback chain is "special" - according to others here in the know it's just a standard chain. The Ryobi quality isn't as bad as you say - I need a new chain now and the saw is still going strong. I left it in a locker for nearly a year and it started on the second pull, so it can't be that bad. It's not supposed to be professional equipment, but for what I do it's a decent saw.

Edited December 20, 2011 by blackrose

[onionbargee]

http://www.newsawchains.co.uk

 

If you mainly cut small go for a 10 or 12 inch chain and bar, then your saw will be like rocket powered.

 

Are you not sharpening your chain ?

[tree monkey]

http://www.newsawchains.co.uk

 

If you mainly cut small go for a 10 or 12 inch chain and bar, then your saw will be like rocket powered.

 

Are you not sharpening your chain ?

 

i wouldn't use low kickback chain but i have worked on the saw for 15 years and if it makes blackrose feel more confidant then go for it, they are safer

 

i also wouldn't use a saw unless it has sthil or husky on the side, but for a bit of winter firewood what does it matter, they will last a good few years, i know of 6yr old aldi saw still running fine, why spend on proffesional products when other product are cheaper and fine for the intended use?

 

but it is worth buying a shorter bar and chain to fit because most B&Q specials are supplied with a far too large a bar for the engine size.

 

whatever saw you have just use it carefully and dont be too scared of it, use full revs and work them hard, dont contact the bar tip/sprocket with the ground or other timber and dont stand over the bar when cutting, then if it kicks back you wont be in the way

 

as i said before if you want more just ask or pop in to see me on the llangolen for a brew and a chat

[blackrose]

I've bought a couple of these on ebay. I'm not sure if they're low-kickback or not, but by the sound of things it's not too important. I think they're the same as the original chain that came with the saw.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310361018273?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

[tree monkey]

I've bought a couple of these on ebay. I'm not sure if they're low-kickback or not, but by the sound of things it's not too important. I think they're the same as the original chain that came with the saw.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310361018273?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

 

not a "low kick back" it a type called a semi chisel if it was the same as you last chain you will notice little differance but if not it will cut a bit faster, just take a bit of care when first using it to be on the safe side

[blackrose]

Thanks, will do. Cheers for all the advice.

[cereal tiller]

Does anyone know where I can find good replacement chains for my Ryobi RCS3335 (14" blade).

 

I found Archer chains on ebay and they're quite cheap, but that's the bit that worries me. Will one end up snapping and ripping through my gloved hand?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140653373755?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

 

They're made in China as is everything these days. I've no idea where the chain that came with the saw was made - quite possibly China too? The chainsaw manual specifies that "low-kickback" replacement chains are used. I don't know if the Archer chain is low-kickback or not?

Bandsaw services

 

fairacres estate

 

windsor.

 

 

they supply chainsaw blades as well.

[Bat & Frog]

Thanks, will do. Cheers for all the advice.

 

If you ever find your around Bristol happy to give advice, tea etc although in the winter i'm often to be found in Bath, Box, Bradford upon Avon areas underground. Not a monkey but spent many years using this kit professionally.

[Alan Saunders]

It really is worthwhile getting some instruction on the use and maintenence of chainsaws.

 

You can sharpen the teeth until they almost come to a point. Increase the chain tension and clamp the bar, still attached to the saw, in a vice.

You also need to remove the burrs from the bar and invert it to even out wear, mostly at the 'toe'.

Next, a guage will help with using a flat file to reduce the 'guard links' to the required dimension. The dimensions and angles are shown on the packaging of replacement chains.

 

Chain tension must be set with the bar cold. It is likely that there is a little 'vertical slack'; you must tension the bar upwards, as it is in normal use whilst making this adjustment.

 

A 14" bar is not too small; it will cut a 28" log and fell a 40" tree! I have cut up a fallen beech that was 5' or more at the waist with a 14" bar.

 

I am an amateur user who cut ~10 tons of logs p/a for fifteen years. I needed to sharpen the saw ~every four hours.

 

Oregan chains are stocked by most dealers; if they are a little 'soft', at least you will not have to break the work-hardened edge with a grindstone.

 

Alan