wetroom design for bathroom

[ChrisPy]

I like the concept of a wetroom design for the bathroom. It will comprise a shower in one alcove 900mm x900mm, a washbasin and a WC in a second alcove. The size of the bathroom without the (raised) toilet alcove area will be 1800mm x 900mm.

 

I had planned to fit a raised shower tray fitted with bifold doors, but it would be much neater if the whole floor was sealed and drained into the shower drain.

 

I read that Piper Boats have tried something like this.

 

How about a moulded GRP tray?

 

Is there a patented flooring system that can be moulded to the right shape?

 

I don't want to use tiles and waterproofing layers because it wil obviously fail in time.

 

Any comments, pros and cons?

[Big COL]

Chris

 

Mobility on wet floors is a problem on terra firma, add to this the factor that the boat's floor will be slightly mobile, and the danger increases. We have all experienced how difficult it is to walk in very wet areas ie swimming pools, public showers, and there are always warning signs (danger wet floor).

Any foot grip that is Incorporated into the flooring, to be effective enough to work, will also become a dirt trap, and will never look as clean as the rest of the floor. The sanded walk way on the gunnels is a good example of this.

The extra problem with large shower areas is that you introduce a lubricant in the form of soap, which then tends to nullify the effect that the flooring grip gives, this is not a problem when in a cubical because you cannot move much, but in large shower areas where you can move, it does become slippery.

I assume that the shower area is to one side of the boat and any through traffic will not be stepping down and up to pass through, don't laugh, I worked on a boat where this was the case, a owner self fit, and to pass through the boat you had to step down and up to pass through the bathroom. I wonder how many medals he won for design with that one.

[Paul Evans]

I've seen boats with wet bathroom installations and they never seem as neat and clean as those with baths/shower trays. With the amount of space you are planning you could use a larger than normal tray. Chandlery Direct (http://http://www.chandlerydirect.co.uk/index.html) stock the Thompson range of plastic bathroom equipment including shower trays. One is 609mm X 895mm. They have loads of other stuff as well.

 

We bought our shower tray from them 3 years ago and were impressed with the price and service. They must be worth a look.

[DHutch]

most camper vans have "wet bathrooms" - which work quite well, with large GRP foors/wall, and the sink tap that doubles as a shower head

 

daniel

[John Orentas]

Chris.

 

They were quite popular a few years ago but the idea seemed to fall from favour, probably for some of the reasons already mentioned.

 

There is no reason that you could not have a base made in GRP or even stainless steel and then build the bathroom around it, you would still have the issue of an accessible drain system to sort out, but would not be too difficult.

 

John Squeers

[Bernie]

I vaguely remember when Mick Sivewright was building his Owl class narrowboats, the small bathroom/toilet area was built as a wetroom. I do remember having a look round one of his and the sink was a small pull down arrangement as in some small caravans, there was an Elsan and duckboards over the floor through which the water drained via a shower pump. Whether the flooring was GRP I don't know.

[ChrisPy]

..... you would still have the issue of an accessible drain system to sort out, but would not be too difficult.

 

John Squeers

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

damn! you've just reminded me why I gave up on the idea 6 months ago when I was doodling on the design.

 

the grey cells and all that ............... old age.

 

thanks for reminding me, John O.

[Jus73]

Hi Chris

 

After seeing a successful wet room on a narrowboat a few months ago I would also consider this if we had a new boat built.

 

The owners had a stainless steel tray fabricated to the shape of the room. This had raised edges all the way round to form a large sort of tray. The raised edges (about 30mm high) where covered by the wall tiles with the exception of the door entrance which was covered by a hardwood strip, you had to step over this when entering into the room.

 

The tray was also fabricated with steel strips welded to the back to form the slope to the drain hole and section of pipe at one end. A hole was drilled into the floor and presumably the pipe went into a sealed container with float switch that pumped out the waste. This was accessed from the floor of a wardrobe next to the bathroom.

 

The room looked great and provided loads of space. Although the chap did still use a special swimming pool tile adveshive which he said had cost more that the mosiac tiles!

 

Hope this gives you confidence to go for it! I would!!

 

Good luck

 

Justin.

[charles123]

If you want something different whynot consider a glass enclosure that are becoming more popular, they can be more compact and need not cost more than £500 if you shop around. Watch the headroom though, they tend to be about 6ft plus the height of the tray which can be partly set into the floor to gain an inch or two

[John Orentas]

Charles.

 

A similar topic came up a few weeks ago, if was fitting out another boat I would certainly consider using one, I suggested at that time that it would be as well to find one that could be cut down without too much difficulty.

 

I am sure I have seen some cheaper than £500.

 

John Squeers

[ChrisPy]

I was home in UK over Xmas. Did some research and have come up with a cunning plan.

- Bathroom will be lined out with 18mm WBP ply bulkheads and floor. This was the original design, except I will also fill in the outer wall with a vertically mounted sheet of ply).

- False floor will be constructed above the existing floor, supported on tapered bearers 4x2 down to 2x2) gently sloping towards the floor drain located immediately behind the galley bulkhead (next to the grey water system located under a kitchen cabinet).

- All wall and floor surfaces below waist height will be epoxy-coated like a modern plywood boat.

- Floor/wall junctions will be fitted with a concave curved fillet former (the plastic curved paint guard strips you use when decorating the house will do).

- Floor drain will be fitted with a low-profile shower trap (from Focus DIY) that is less than 2" deep. Easily accessible from the kitchen cupboard.

- Drain outlet will run above one floor bearer and will discharge into the grey water tank that is set between the bearers, in a sump built up from the base plate.

- Shower floor will be between 5" and 6" above the base plate. In my case this gives (just) standing headroom for a six-footer at the outside edge of the cabin.

- floor will be lined with a single piece of thick flexible cushionfloor (soft lino) including 3" up the sides (i.e. a tank), stuck with Evostik 100% (careful how you locate it - you only get one chance!). Corners will have cut-outs to ensure a good faired-in joint. Any final gap will be filled with silicone.

- matching lino used on the walls, with joint in each corner. Joint beads formed of silicone plus an internal plastic fillet strip.

- with care, the horizontal wall/floor joint will be invisible. (It was invisible in the mock-up I made). If not, fill with silicone and cover with a plastic strip.

- floor drain will screw up, trapping the floor ply and the lino covering.

 

Total cost - £200 for best quality lino, plus about £100 for timber, epoxy, Evostik, silicone, beading, etc.

 

Time taken - probably no more than fitting a shower tray plus door enclosure and sealing all joints.

 

Advantage - no shower enclosure, no curtains, no floor level changes, maximum use of space, sleek appearance, easy cleaning.

 

Disadvantages - a wet floor for one hour each day, cured with an extractor fan (part of the original plan). As a sole occupant that shouldn't be a big problem.

 

The salesman (ex-fitter) in the carpet shop was helpful and enthusiatic. He only warned that if you turn the lino through an angle without a very generous radius, the finish surface will eventually crack. So I need about 2" radius, fully supported.

 

Any comments?

Edited December 30, 2004 by chris polley

[stuart]

Do you actually need a full 2" drop on the floor? I would have thought that 1" would be okay for a small boat bathroom?

[John Orentas]

Chris.

 

Some of the scheme seems very much over engineered to me, cant understand why you are building the floor up. The natural trim of the boat, front to back would be sufficient and for drainage. If you are using fully sealed 'Cusionfloor' you do not really need the GRP linning, just use a sealant on the plywood in case of minor leakage.

 

You can utilise the space below the floor to the rear of the shower room for a small drainage tank (a shower trap will not be required), from the tank it can be pumped directly overboard with a bilge pump.

[Big COL]

John

 

If you do not use a trap you leave yourself open to suffering odours in the hot weather as a bilge pump will not remove all the water in the tank. A water trap will prevent this from happening.

[ChrisPy]

John/Stuart

 

Thanks for the critical review. Helps the thought process.

 

I'm using a preformed grey water tank fitted with integral pump anyway, for bathroom and kitchen water, and will need a trap at the shower to keep the air sweet.

 

The water and drain system is all concentrated on one bulkhead - galley forward and bathroom aft, so the natural falls (gradients) are prescribed and will be uphill.

 

I guess you're right about the lining, but I intend to use epoxy (without GRP except in the corners) so it is just a good sealant really. And I have experienced ply going quite rotten when used by a builder as a shower wall, fully tiled. Not worth the risk.

 

Over-engineered? Probably. That's my profession (oil & gas - we don't take chances) so I always over-engineer if it doesn't create additional complications.

 

Thanks, and a Happy New Year, guys. Have a Good One (or two).

[stuart]

Would be good to see some pictures during the build process. Put them in the gallery!

[Richard Bustens]

Hi chris

Are you planing a full width bathroom or having a side walkway?

Edited December 30, 2004 by Richard Bustens

[ChrisPy]

Hi chris

Are you planing a full width bathroom or having a side walkway?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

it's a wide beam, Richard. bathroom is basically 6ft across the boat, and 3ft wide.

[ChrisPy]

Would be good to see some pictures during the build process.  Put them in the gallery!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

will do. scheduled for summer 2005.

 

I can send a computer friendly layout of the boat (Excel Draw) to anyone who asks. As long as you have a recent MSOffice package you can read and play.

 

e-mail me if you want.

[stuart]

will do.  scheduled for summer 2005.

 

I can send a computer friendly layout of the boat (Excel Draw) to anyone who asks.  As long as you have a recent MSOffice package you can read and play.

 

e-mail me if you want.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

As a side point, I've used a program called SMARTDRAW to design the interior of my new boat. Its been very easy to use unlike a lot of CAD type packages. Will even save to Adobe PDF files so you can e-mail it around easily.

 

SMARTDRAW link

[Richard Bustens]

Wont matter then Chris

I was just thinking about walking through it wet with a bit of mud on your boots and then treding it into the carpets, at that it sounded like a lot of cleaning,

[Oliver]

Re damp floor for about an hour - what about the underfloor heating that you can get in tile shops if you have enough electrical power for it?

 

Or could you run some water pipes under the floor and feed from the engine hot water?

 

We have the electrical version at home and the floor quickly dries out.

[ChrisPy]

Re damp floor for about an hour - what about the underfloor heating that you can get in tile shops if you have enough electrical power for it? 

 

Or could you run some water pipes under the floor and feed from the engine hot water?

 

We have the electrical version at home and the floor quickly dries out.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

EHHHH??

 

Actually I was planning to have a remote controlled char lady come in and mop it each time.....

 

.... it's not April Fools Day is it ?

[ChrisPy]

Re damp floor for about an hour - what about the underfloor heating that you can get in tile shops if you have enough electrical power for it? 

 

Or could you run some water pipes under the floor and feed from the engine hot water?

 

We have the electrical version at home and the floor quickly dries out.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Actually I've got a better idea.

 

Install underfloor heating throughout the boat a la Romanesque and supply from the engine calorifier connection. All you have to do then is keep the engine running on that nice white diesel all the time you are on board, and the boat will be as warm as toast. Providing, that is, you don't just warm the bottom of the boat and all the water in the cut. Mr Gordon Brown would love to have the revenue.

[John Orentas]

Better still. Build a Hypocaust like the Romans did. The floor could be built on spaced out breeze-blocks with the stove flue ducted below and emerging somewhere in the engine room.

 

On a related topic how about one of those underwater ramming spikes they used to have on the front their galleys, might just settle a few of those disputes about who got to the bridge-hole first. Pretty smart those romans.