wrigglefingers Posted October 3, 2011 Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 (edited) Please don't laugh and be gentle with me - 'tis my first time sirs .... I need to do Cobbett's 100 hour service which is oil change and oil filter - nowt else. I can't work out if there's a FRAM equivalent filter at the moment will carry on searching but I need to know the order of work. You'll all know I'm utterly clueless but it's time to cease that and get on with it. So I need information - help please? Wriggly PS, just been an absolute dimwit and realised I've posted this in Equipment not Maintenance. Tsk! Fancy having more than one window open at a time! Please can it be swept over, Mods? Edited October 3, 2011 by wrigglefingers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedwheel Posted October 3, 2011 Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 I think (95% sure) the Fram equivalent is PH20. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bagdad Boatman (waits) Posted October 3, 2011 Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 Depending on the type of oil filter it is sometimes better to remove the whole fitting to ensure that the oil filter seals are bedded correctly many an oil and filter change has resulted in the new oil pouring out of an ill fitted seal. This usually happens on non spin type filters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tommo Posted October 3, 2011 Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 Fram PH 20 is correct, there are plenty of other makes out there, I think I know most by now. Here we go then... Run engine for 5mins or so until warm. Turn off engine and remove the oil filler cap. Remove the little plug from the oil pump and turn on the valve. Pump out oil into suitable container (about 6 litres) I now like to now wait for about 5 more mins or so to let as much oil run from the filter as possible, then undo the filter with suitable wrench, try and stuff some rag below to catch the oil which will spill out when you undo it, keep the filter upright after you have removed it. Clean up the filter mounting and seal with some clean rag. Take the new filter and smear some clean oil on the rubber seal and screw on, tighten firmly by hand. Close valve on oil pump and refit plug. Refill with oil to dip stick top mark, use API CG-4 or CF-4 (you don’t need an expensive oil, I use Halfords basic diesel oil) Run engine, check for leaks, leave 5 mins then recheck oil level. Ian, fellow JD3 owner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmr Posted October 3, 2011 Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 The Filter IS Fram PH20 Late afternoon get the Engne warm but not too hot. Remove ignition key! Pump out the old oil, slightly too much to fit into a 5 litre pot! Loosen the oil filter about 1/4 turn. Fill the engine with new oil. Take care not to overfill as it takes a little while to trickle down to the sump. Best oil is Morris Duplex CDX but only available in 25 litre pots. Beer bed etc Next morning: Remove filter (no mess) Fit new filter (lubricate seal first) Replace key If possible crank engine without starting till oil pressure present. (remove wire from injection pump to do this??) Start engine Check for leaks. Recheck oil level at end of the day. ..........Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrigglefingers Posted October 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2011 Thank you, thank you, folks - particularly about the beer advice - always welcome, It's more or less as I thought but didn't want to cause a major leak. Off to get oil - 10 litres be sufficient d'you think? and find filter. I think the local motor factor will have them. Well, the fragmented information I got from the youth I rang up seemed to think they kept them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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